Choosing a forward hatch ... any good ones?

[Scott T-Bird]

I want to replace mine with a very good quality hatch. About 14 years ago I replaced the original Pompanette-Gray plastic POS with a Bomar extruded aluminum hatch, as seen in the picture. It leaks and the stays failed relatively easily (the metal stripped where the dogs are connected). I made satisfactory repairs with screws that are more robust, but the hatch also leaks - always did. Admittedly, I did a crappy job at cleaning and sealing the flange area around the cut-out, so I suspect the leaks are on me.

So I'm considering the Lewmar models and the Bomar models. The problem is that there are so many to choose from!

Lewmar has:
Low-Profile (seems to be their "standard model")
Medium Profile (description makes it sound like they are for larger boats)
Ocean, which describes a 1" flange or lip and is taller - which seems to be better for boarding waves or a lot of spray.

Bomar has:
1000 Series - extruded aluminum External Hinge
1000 Series - Internal Hinge (I'm pretty sure this is what I installed - or their equivalent at the time)
1700 or 1800 Series - Stainless steel (316) combinations
2000 Series - Extruded aluminum with a high sealing lip - more like the Ocean Series from Lewmar, I suppose?
190 or 100 Series - Cast aluminum models (seem to be painted black or white)

And then there could be Bomon, the Canadian maker whom did my custom sized windows. I have a standard 20" x 20" cut-out so all of these models have a standard size that fits the opening.

I'm at a loss for deciding. I did put in Lewmar port lights (the 2 forward lights) and have lukewarm thoughts about Lewmar. They are extremely difficult to close and the screens are worthless. It is impossible to insert the plastic screens properly. I'm not completely happy with the Bomar quality, either.

Any thoughts are welcome! Are there other brands I should consider?

 

[dlochner]

Scott,

We have several Lewmar Ocean Series hatches on Second Star. Generally I'm pleased with them. The one drawback to the Ocean Series is replacing the gasket which at some point will be necessary as they do wear. Mine failed after 26 years. The friction hinges work well, have not had a problem with them collapsing. Either the low profile or medium profile should work well for your application.

According to Hatchmasters.com replacing the gasket on the Ocean Series is not for the faint of heart. The lens has to be removed to replace it. Not a problem for us as the lens needs replacing any way.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Thanks for that comment. I would be leaning toward the higher-end Ocean model. The price for Size 60, is really steep tho, and the unit itself seems pretty heavy at almost 18 pounds. Is the lens actually 1/2" thick? It seems like it may be far more robust for my needs. The thing that bothers me most about settling for a less robust unit is that we are coastal and there is no telling what kind of circumstance you can get into without any intentions of being an off-shore sailor. The Hudson, for instance, can be particularly nasty if you end up going the wrong way with opposing wind and tide. Also, we frequently are motoring into 30 knots of wind on the bay and even if the waves are not significant, the spray is really nasty.

 

[dlochner]

The hatches are really heavy. And yes, the lens is ½" which is important if it is flat and someone is going to step on it. In your application, the hatch is on a slant, much less likely for someone to step on it. You'll be fine with the medium profile.

If you were going offshore and might run into storm conditions, then the ocean would be a better hatch for you. Either model will deal with spray, at least until the gasket starts to fail. How thick is the lens on the Bomar?

 

[jssailem]

Hi Scott. I installed the Lewmar Ocean 70 this fall. Chose the design with the flange rather than the flat deck. Lewmar really stresses the need for a flat deck where install is going. Check the radius of the corners that it will match your rough opening, or you will be doing some fiberglass work. My Old hatch was square. Made of wood, the plexiglass was crazed, and the frame was starting to separate. Two options. Replace or reconstruct. Not liking the flimsy hardware holding the hatch , I chose to replace. Spoke with the Lewmar folk at Annapolis Boat show and they shipped one to the house.


It required serious modification to fit the new Hatch.


Once cut up and new fiberglass corners filled into the deck installed, sanded flat, gel coated we tested the fit...


Serious happy cheers...

We got around to the final stage, counter sinking the screw holes, gobs of bed-it butyl, careful setting and tightening. Watching with satisfaction the butyl ooze out the edges.

Then the final step, peeling back the protective cover...

Just before the rain set in.

Woke the next morning with a pesky drip. The hinge below my hand in the above image dripped. We removed the screws and the flimsy piece of thin foam used to seal the plastic hinge. Replaced it with butyl and resealed the hinge.

2 days later after torrential fall storm wind and rain squalls, the inside was dry as a bone. I really like that hatch and feel much safer thinking about sailing out into an unhappy sea.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Any particular reason that you reversed the opening direction? I noticed that Lewmar specifies that the surface needs to be flat within 1 mm tolerance. I'm not sure if I have a little curvature or not. I'll have to check it with a straight edge. It seems that the deck has been molded to accommodate a flat hatch. My cutout is no more than 4 mm greater than the cut-out dimension for the Model 60 in length and width. The existing corner radius is about 1/2" and leaves about 10 mm space between new cut-out radius of 42.5 mm. I've laid it out on paper. It appears that the outer radius (76 mm) covers the existing opening with about 25 mm of frame, so the fit appears to be pretty good without modification, as long as the surface is flat enough.

 

[dlochner]

Any particular reason that you reversed the opening direction? I noticed that Lewmar specifies that the surface needs to be flat within 1 mm tolerance. I'm not sure if I have a little curvature or not. I'll have to check it with a straight edge. It seems that the deck has been molded to accommodate a flat hatch. My cutout is no more than 4 mm greater than the cut-out dimension for the Model 60 in length and width. The existing corner radius is about 1/2" and leaves about 10 mm space between new cut-out radius of 42.5 mm. I've laid it out on paper. It appears that the outer radius (76 mm) covers the existing opening with about 25 mm of frame, so the fit appears to be pretty good without modification, as long as the surface is flat enough.

As long as the curve is not too great, fairing compound can fix it. If the curvature is greater then the area can be built up with fiberglass. Looking at the photo of your boat, it looks like the lower edge might need to be raised a bit.

 

[PaulK]

We had the lens of our Bomar forward deck hatch crack. After 30+ years it was not a surprise. Hatchmasters was unable to repair because of having to destroy the corroded ss/aluminum handles to get the lens off. Bomar no longer makes the handles or the same hatch and a different sized replacement was 2x the cost of a Lewmar that fit the existing opening exactly. Guess which way we went... No leaks so far, but VERY careful install.

 

[jssailem]

Any particular reason that you reversed the opening direction?

I put the hinge towards any blue water coming over the bow.

Regarding fit, I would do a dry fit and then decide if any adjustments are needed. Need to have enough coverage of the deck to place through holes for the 18 or so screws.

 

[garymalmgren]

Admittedly, I did a crappy job at cleaning and sealing the flange area around the cut-out, so I suspect the leaks are on me.

Hi Scott . There is you problem and even with a new hatch that problem will remain.
As jssailem has noted


It required serious modification to fit the new Hatch.


So, you can save yourself a lot of money by removing the old hatch, completely refurbishing it and spending the time and money on making a new flat bed for the hatch.

gary

 

[jssailem]

I think what Gary is saying, the foundation is important to the install of a hatch.

With that I would agree.

Beyond that the design and functionality of the hatch will be important in the service it provides to your boat.

 

[heritage]

I replaced my old Bomar Pos forward hatch with one of these Atkins Hoyle hatches. Found it at a sailboat salvage place. Very well constructed with 3/8" cast acrylic lens and reversible opening hinges. Instead of dogs with screws, there are two levers for securing. Have never had a leak. XR 200 Offshore Cast Hatch

 

[garymalmgren]

Thanks for the back up jssailem.
Scott, I want to say that I am not knocking your idea of getting a better, stronger hatch.
Just suggesting the path of least (financial) resistance.
Wish i had a sailboat salvage yard that I could wander around like heritage can.

gary

 

[Scott T-Bird]

XR 200 Offshore Cast Hatch

Yikes! It looks like a good suggestion, but pricey!

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Admittedly, I did a crappy job at cleaning and sealing the flange area around the cut-out, so I suspect the leaks are on me.

Hi Scott . There is you problem and even with a new hatch that problem will remain.
As jssailem has noted


It required serious modification to fit the new Hatch.


So, you can save yourself a lot of money by removing the old hatch, completely refurbishing it and spending the time and money on making a new flat bed for the hatch.

gary

I could consider it … basically, I'm dissatisfied with arms and operation of the one that I have and I'm guaranteed not taking any money with me or leaving much behind when I'm gone!

 

[CarlN]

I have Bomar 1800 hatches and like them a lot. The stainless steel lid frame is more rigid than an aluminum frame of the same thickness which I believe makes it less likely to flex and leak. The stainless also looks great. My large hatch on the bow has never leaked.

Quality at Lewmar seems to be slowly declining since the financial crash of 2008 put them through a series of financial problems and ownership changes. Most recently they were acquired last August by LCI who is buying up a bunch of marine businesses. The strategy of such rollups is often to increase profit by further trimming costs. Too early to know if that's the plan for Lewmar. Of the Lewmar hatches I still like the timeless Ocean hatches. The frame is so thick that it doesn't twist.

Strongly recommend using MainSail's butyl to bed the frames. Big hatches expand and contract a lot more than small ports and they get full sun. This daily heat cycle tends to eventually break the seal on caulks but the butyl happily moves.

 

[free cruiser]

Not much you can buy which is as good as one can make for oneself.I always build my own. A piece of aluminiumn with the 4 corners notched out , and 4-90 degree bends , along with a couple of diagonal kinks for stiffness, in a brake press. 4- 3 inch welds ,and voila! A nice aluminum hatch cover, with no rubber- metal joints to leak .Mine cost me $5 for the bending. No problems in 36 years. If I won $millions in the lottery, I wouldn't do it any other way. If I wanted sky lights ,I would not put them in the hatch .

 

[dlochner]

Not much you can buy which is as good as one can make for oneself.I always build my own. A piece of aluminiumn with the 4 corners notched out , and 4-90 degree bends , along with a couple of diagonal kinks for stiffness, in a brake press. 4- 3 inch welds ,and voila! A nice aluminum hatch cover, with no rubber- metal joints to leak .Mine cost me $5 for the bending. No problems in 36 years. If I won $millions in the lottery, I wouldn't do it any other way. If I wanted sky lights ,I would not put them in the hatch .

Would love to see a photo of these hatches.

 

[free cruiser]

Trouble free , build your own, aluminium fore hatch . Sorry, I don't have a picture of the whole hatch, this is to show the hinges, but gives you the general idea.

 

[capta]

I'm sorry but I just don't have time to read all above, so if this has already been mentioned just pass it by. The only way to properly secure a hatch not specifically manufactured for a particular boat is to have a shim made that accounts for any curvature on the boat and the flat surface the hatch MUST mount on. We have some made by the manufacturer out of fiberglass, which is common on a multi-boat production run, and wood, common when replacing a hatch on a boat that didn't have the shims or has changed shape slightly from a deck stepped mast step sagging or davits on an aft deck, for instance.