Several Rigging and Parts Questions About My 1984 Cat 22

[AndreInPortland]

Hello!

I just bought a 1984 Catalina 22 pop-top swing keel. My first mistake boat! I had a chance to spend some quality time with her this weekend, and there's a few things I'm unsure about. Much appreciate, in advance, any help! To the Dumb Questions....

DQ1: When rigging the main, does the rope that's permanently sewed into the foot of the mainsail slide into the slit on the top of the boom? Other Cat 22s that I've sailed were not rigged such that the full length of the foot was slid into the boom, but the rope sewed into the foot and the slit in the boom seem so obviously intended to go together that I can't see it not being the case? The main is original. In this photo the foot "rope" was not slid into the boom, however the slit widens near the goose-neck to allow it.

DQ2: What is the intended outhaul configuration on this boat? As pictured, the PO has this black rope tied into the clew, but I'm unsure of the correct way to affix it to the boom in a way that gives me mechanical advantage and adjustment options? The current rigging is my own best guess. There is a cleat way fore on the boom that I have the black line tied to in.

DQ3: Is the backstay only supposed to be attached to the hull via a single buckle? There appears to be a second attach point on the stern that is unused, so I'm curious its purpose?

DQ4: The boat is equipped with a head. The PO said they never used it. Is this usable? It doesn't appear to have any through-hull pump out. Besides the obvious, how does one operate it? And how does one, um, empty it? The brand is "Mansfield Sani Pottie." Age unknown.

Thank you for reading this far!

Best,
Andre

 

[AaronD]

Welcome to the C-22 club, @AndreInPortland. Not dumb questions at all, so I'll remove the 'D' .

Q1: Yes, it looks like you have a main with a foot bolt rope, and you're rigging it correctly. To my knowledge, the original C-22 mains all had this foot bolt rope; many people have gone with loose-footed designs when replacing them.

Q2: C-22 outhaul designs seem to be all over the place; if you decide you want more purchase, you might check out Stingy Sailor's design at https://stingysailor.com/2018/06/09/mainsail-outhaul-solution-2/, or the options at Catalina Direct (https://www.catalinadirect.com/inde...uthaul-c-22-four-partspan.htm?SearchResults=1 or https://www.catalinadirect.com/inde...haul-c-22-internal-81span.htm?SearchResults=1). You can build your own variation on any of those. But be forewarned that even with more purchase, you won't have as much control over a bolt-footed main as you might if you were used to a loose-footed main.

Q3: Some C-22s have adjustable backstays that connect on both sides of the transom (there are at least 2 different designs of such backstays). It looks like yours has the second chainplate already in place, so adding an adjustable backstay would be a little easier.

Q4: That's a porta-potty, pretty standard in our C-22s. You have to carry it out to dump it; most marine pump-outs have a dump as well. You might glance at my MSD install for another option: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...and-restoring-9874.195739/page-2#post-1523072

 

[AndreInPortland]

Not dumb questions at all, so I'll remove the 'D' .

Hah! Thanks for all the great info - super super helpful. I owe you a glass of Pinot next time we're both in Newberg.

Q1: Yes, it looks like you have a main with a foot bolt rope, and you're rigging it correctly. To my knowledge, the original C-22 mains all had this foot bolt rope; many people have gone with loose-footed designs when replacing them.

So that's what it's called! Now I have so much more Googling to do.

Q2: C-22 outhaul designs seem to be all over the place; if you decide you want more purchase, you might check out Stingy Sailor's design at https://stingysailor.com/2018/06/09/mainsail-outhaul-solution-2/, or the options at Catalina Direct (https://www.catalinadirect.com/inde...uthaul-c-22-four-partspan.htm?SearchResults=1 or https://www.catalinadirect.com/inde...haul-c-22-internal-81span.htm?SearchResults=1). You can build your own variation on any of those. But be forewarned that even with more purchase, you won't have as much control over a bolt-footed main as you might if you were used to a loose-footed main.

Awesome. With a bolt footed main, this limited outhaul configuration makes much more sense. I've come across Stingy Sailor's links a couple times already; that guy is a legend!

Q3: Some C-22s have adjustable backstays that connect on both sides of the transom (there are at least 2 different designs of such backstays). It looks like yours has the second chainplate already in place, so adding an adjustable backstay would be a little easier.

That makes sense. Adding this to the list of future upgrades.

Q4: That's a porta-potty, pretty standard in our C-22s. You have to carry it out to dump it; most marine pump-outs have a dump as well. You might glance at my MSD install for another option: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...and-restoring-9874.195739/page-2#post-1523072

From your linked post: "I'm far preferring a pump-out hose to the 'trudge around with the porta potty' routine."
Oh yeah, definitely adding this to my list upgrades, too. Definitely.

Thanks again!

Andre

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Welcome! I have an 84 as well, #12449. AaronD has answered all of your questions correctly, but I will add to DQ2. You mentioned that you currently have the black cord tied off on a cleat further up the boom (I'll get back to that). While this certainly will work, a short piece of line tied from the clew to the eye on the end of the boom would be more than satisfactory. You can tie it a little looser in light wind and a little tighter in stronger wind, but unless you are racing, there isn't much advantage in having an elaborate setup for adjustment. AaronD is correct in his assessment that a bolt rope main won't benefit as much as a loose footed main. Now back to that cleat. It is part of a two line reefing system. In your picture there is an eye strap attached to the boom just above the text DQ2Port. A small line (3/16") ties to this eye, then runs up and through a second clew on the main, then back down and through the block on the other side of the boom just above the text DQ2Starboard. The line then runs forward along the boom, through another eye strap and terminates at that cleat. On either side of your mast there should be an eye strap and a cleat just below boom level. A second line ties to the eye, runs up through a second tack cringle and back down to the cleat. These two line allow you to reduce sail area (reef) quickly just by easing the halyard and hauling in on each of the reefing lines.

 

[AaronD]

Hah! Thanks for all the great info - super super helpful. I owe you a glass of Pinot next time we're both in Newberg.

I like that plan! Ping me the next time you head out here to wine country, and we can probably find some good Pinot over which to talk sailing. (We live in Newberg and sail in the south sound - thus 2 locations in my profile.)

 

[AndreInPortland]

Welcome! I have an 84 as well, #12449. AaronD has answered all of your questions correctly, but I will add to DQ2. You mentioned that you currently have the black cord tied off on a cleat further up the boom (I'll get back to that). While this certainly will work, a short piece of line tied from the clew to the eye on the end of the boom would be more than satisfactory. You can tie it a little looser in light wind and a little tighter in stronger wind, but unless you are racing, there isn't much advantage in having an elaborate setup for adjustment. AaronD is correct in his assessment that a bolt rope main won't benefit as much as a loose footed main. Now back to that cleat. It is part of a two line reefing system. In your picture there is an eye strap attached to the boom just above the text DQ2Port. A small line (3/16") ties to this eye, then runs up and through a second clew on the main, then back down and through the block on the other side of the boom just above the text DQ2Starboard. The line then runs forward along the boom, through another eye strap and terminates at that cleat. On either side of your mast there should be an eye strap and a cleat just below boom level. A second line ties to the eye, runs up through a second tack cringle and back down to the cleat. These two line allow you to reduce sail area (reef) quickly just by easing the halyard and hauling in on each of the reefing lines.

Yessssssss, thank you! Understanding how to quickly and safely reef the main was on my list before taking her out. To help both myself and other owners, here's an annotated picture of my mast and boom.

The cleat I originally referenced is #5 in this picture. I now understand it is intended for reefing. I can see the cleat on the mast you referred to as being #7. From my picture, I can't see the reefing eye straps on the mast, but they just might not be visible. I originally took this (now cropped) photo as a glamour shot and didn't intend to use it for technical pursuits. Oops!

Thanks again!

Andre

 

[Ron20324]

I'd say you need a sail slide on the clew to ride in the groove on the boom. That, or a web strap to tie that clew cringle down to the boom, Otherwise, the outhaul lifting will try to tear your sail apart. My 2 cents. See the thread on changing the main sail to a loose foot.

 

[rpludwig]

Welcome Andre! '84 here as well, all good advice above. Spend some time on Stingy's site relative to your boom, backstay, reefing questions. '84's came with an adjustable split backstay arrangement (that's what your DQ3? is for), many have replaced it with a single adjustable backstay, looks like yours has been reduced to single, but I see no adjustment, again Stingy's site will clarify that with pics.

Stick around, read thru several pages of threads, especially the longer posts, you'll learn a lot in short order. No dumb questions here, we've all been thru it!

 

[Leeward Rail]

That outhaul is rigged wrong of course.

The pigtail holding the end of the boom up is not attached when sailing. It is only there for when the mainsail is lowered.
It usually clips directly to the eye on the end top of the boom.


That U shaped shackle and block (pulley) could then be attached so that they lay flat along the boom.



FWIW: Personally, I would use a smaller block and get a shorter shackle for the that purpose. The load on that line isn't that much compared to a big sailboat. I used to sail an 18ft Catamaran that had more sail that the C22.

Getting a second shackle would make it simple to attach to the clew of the sail.




Based on drawings, early C22 boats, from the factory, apparently simply used a piece of line for the outhaul. No blocks/pulleys.

That said, some people upgrade to a stronger system to make it easier to adjust. I have a dual mini block system setup on our boat, but eventually I plan on doing the internal outhaul setup used by some racers.


The bolt rope on the foot/bottom of the sail keeps the sail down to the boom so that the outhaul "only" pulls outward and not on an angle. Some people convert their main to a loose foot design, which requires a slide to attach the end of the sail to the boom, as mentioned by @Ron20324

 

[Leeward Rail]

Are any other rigging blocks lying around in the boat ?

As noted the c22 has reefing lines.. That is what the turning block on the side of the boom is for.

FWIW: People often upgrade the outhaul and some switch to a single line reefing setup.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Here are the diagrams for the "New Design C22" from the late 80's
Your boat is the older original design, but most of the running rigging, was the same from the factory.
The upgraded traveller is one mayor difference but the concept of how it is rigged is similar.

The reefing, outhaul and boom pigtail use should make more sense after you look at these.
Note: The boom is shortened in the sketches. There is more than one reefing padeye on the boom, as you see on your boat.

(BTW: Don't leave the pigtail attached when sailing. Some beginners have done that and it does not go well.)

 

[Gene Neill]

Q1: Yes, it looks like you have a main with a foot bolt rope, and you're rigging it correctly.

In the photos, it is not rigged correctly, it is rigged like a loose foot. I think Andre has that figured out though.

I'd say you need a sail slide on the clew to ride in the groove on the boom. That, or a web strap to tie that clew cringle down to the boom, Otherwise, the outhaul lifting will try to tear your sail apart. My 2 cents. See the thread on changing the main sail to a loose foot.

Agreed, that outhaul looks awkward. The block is too high, and the bolt rope will probably pull out of the slot.

My own two cents, Andre: I think you will love having an adjustable backstay. When the wind pipes up, it is almost effortless to give it a yank, and you will immediately feel an improvement, similar to reefing, just not quite as dramatic.

We don't have a "proper" outhaul (one like $tingy's, with "purchase"). Just a cheek block, like the one labeled "1" in your pic, through which the line turns forward to a cleat. I tend to agree with @Jacomo Sailor when he said a proper outhaul is not all that important to the non-racing crowd. I've certainly never missed having one. Perhaps I just don't know what I'm missing.

About reefing: There is no skill quite as important as quick, smooth reefing! (Heaving to is close second, and can be mastered in about five minutes.) Furthermore, reefing is easiest to do while hove to. You can take your time and slow your pulse a little while getting it done, and take a few deep breaths before resuming sailing.

I'm not a fan of single line reefing. It looks great on paper, but two lines give a better end result. My humble opinion.

We are not rigged to reef from the cockpit, but I REALLY wish we were. (We have two reefs, and for the life of me I can't figure out where to run four more lines aft, in addition to both halyards.) But I'm blessed with a wife who loves the "fun" of scampering up to the mast to secure the forward cringle, while I handle the aft one, and the halyard.

 

[AaronD]

In the photos, it is not rigged correctly, it is rigged like a loose foot. I think Andre has that figured out though.

Thanks, @Gene Neill. I responded to @AndreInPortland's discussion about the bolt rope and slot - I should have been clear about the discrepancy between his comments and the picture. Everyone else around here knows not to listen to me; now Andre does too.

 

[pclarksurf]

you've tapped into the motherload of good intel-- but found a picture of my stock '73 outhaul-- not thrilled with what I've inherited here, but to everyone's point that long shackle with the oversized block is not doing you any favors. Relative to your photo the height of the block is actually pulling the foot of the sail and bolt rope up and away from the boom--

 

[AndreInPortland]

Thank you all so, so much for the amazing advice. I've read every one of your posts. I now have a clear idea of what I need to do in order to rig, hoist, trim, reef, and furl the main successfully. At least that's the current view from the comfort of my office desk. Here's my plan-of-action:

1. Modify the outhaul configuration to mirror $tingy Sailor's KISS version.
2. Run the two-line reefing lines as described in several of the posts above, and know how to use them.
3. Order and install the parts for an adjustable backstay.
4. Rig the mainsail so it's foot-bolted to the boom, at least for now.
5. Always remember to disconnect the pigtail before sailing.

Thanks again!

Andre

 

[rpludwig]

"5. Always remember to disconnect the pigtail before sailing. "

been there, done that, don't do it!!!

 

[gkmoore]

Ditto on the pigtail, which is one reason I added a topping lift to my boat. (one of the easier projects to accomplish, by the way).

 

[AaronD]

1. Modify the outhaul configuration to mirror $tingy Sailor's KISS version.

Measure your main on the boom before ordering parts. If the foot of your sail leaves enough space at the clew, Stingy's system will be great. My foot must have been just a bit longer, so I couldn't fit the blocks back there, and had to route the block and tackle elsewhere (Bigfoot sail, perhaps? We are in the land of the Sasquatch )

3. Order and install the parts for an adjustable backstay.

You can do this much cheaper with Amsteel than with cable (and save a little weight up high, too). Amsteel is really easy to splice (far easier than double-braid). I'll try to get pictures up on my thread eventually. I even have a few spare parts that might help if you want to venture out here to Newberg sometime. PM me for details if you want.

 

[rpludwig]

Andre....for reference, here's the "factory adjustable backstay" on an '84 model...lots going on there, lots of moving parts, just so you know what you're missing! (don't replicate it, best you go Stingy's route, you're almost there!)

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

I was out at the dry sail lot today prepping for a bottom job so I snapped some pics of my 2:1 outhaul setup. I have a simple swivel block on a halyard shackle, some 3/16" line and a clam cleat. You can do the same thing with what you already have and would only need a $10 cleat. The bitter end is tied to the eye strap on the end of the boom, the line then runs through the block which is shackled to the clew. Then back and through the eye strap. The end cap on the boom has a nice rounded groove in it for a reason, and that is so a line can be led around to the bottom where I have my clam cleat. It is simple, works fine, and yes the pigtail can still fit into the eye strap.