It sounds like you have the basic idea
Not every "switch" or terminal on the relay has to be used. They may have used the same relay in multiple applications to make things easier in the factory, save money on a bulk purchase or for supply chain logistics.
The coil in the below diagram is on pins 2 and 7
Check this site out for info on relays in general. He usually does an excellent job of explaining things. Feel free to PM me and I can explain further over the phone if that's easier
I'm not sure where you're located but another option might be one of those electric coolers. The peltier element could be removed and they usually run on 12v. Cost is slightly lower but it might not work in hot environments. Probably an easy project though.
In Northern Illinois (Waukegan) slip fees range from 1400-2200 for a 25'
At Montrose Harbor in Chicago a slip will run you 3000 for one of the very few 25' slips and 4000 for a 30' slip. I believe customers recieve a power bill at the end of the season. Moorings and floating star docks run...
Is there a diagram or part number listed on this relay? This would help us see how the relays are configured
There seems to be a bunch on ebay but it's hard to tell which ones can be used in it's place without more info on the original relays
GUARDIAN ELECTRIC A410-366186-102 RELAY CONT 12A...
If you feel comfortable working with electricity I would take the cover off and see if power is present. Sometimes there's an internal fuse inside devices like this. If you have power present I would bypass the thermostat to rule that out. Can you take a pic of the unit including model number?
Use BedIT or 4200. Most of us will recommend BedIT because it is so much easier to work with and remove in the future. Remove the cleat, countersink the holes from the outside, clean up the hole (I dab BedIT on the hole to collect the dust), wrap the underside of the screw head and about 1/4" of...