I had a HVAC tech come out to the boat to work on my fridge. He located and soldered the leaking line, evacuated the system and recharged it for about $200. Been working great ever since. It works too well if the t-stat gets set too low.
You'll do fine to the ramp and back. People have launched more with less.
My 11000 lb boat far exceeds my Suburban's capacity but I haul it to the crane and back twice a year. About 1/8 mile
You'll love the C22
Imagine what it would have been like only having the sky to navigate by, no accurate charts, in a tiny, primitive vessel.
The World According to Columbus c. 1490 (Illustration) - World History Encyclopedia
That's an important distinction Don.
I added diverter valves to my hot water tank (another thread) supply lines. So I just bypass and drain the tank. The rest of the water supply system gets the pink stuff.
Here's a link to my heat exchanger flush/winterizing thread. The closed system gets pretty gunked up over time. I bought a refractometer to check my antifreeze mix when I was done with the flush.
It's like a water hose. If no water is coming out, you have to trace back to find the kink or hole in the hose. Work your way back to wherever you can get access and see where voltage ends. It's not blowing a fuse so it's probably not shorted.