I noticed that the zinc placed on the prop shaft last summer is gone. I need some help from someone who has replaced zincs while in the water: 1.) What is the diameter of the prop shaft of a 1985 H31 with a 2 GMF? 2.) what is the procedure for attaching the new zincs? Your assistance is appreciated! Tim
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Steve O.
depends..
There are different sized zincs for different sized shafts. The most commomn on your size Hunter is a 1" shaft, but that may or may not be right. The procedure is as follows: 1)jump in the water 2)take a deep breath 3)remove remnants of the old zinc, if any 4)take another deep breath 5)attach new zinc several inches in front of the cutless bearing 6)tap it with a hammer to seat it on the shaft 6)retighten 7)repeat steps 2 and 4 as needed.
There are different sized zincs for different sized shafts. The most commomn on your size Hunter is a 1" shaft, but that may or may not be right. The procedure is as follows: 1)jump in the water 2)take a deep breath 3)remove remnants of the old zinc, if any 4)take another deep breath 5)attach new zinc several inches in front of the cutless bearing 6)tap it with a hammer to seat it on the shaft 6)retighten 7)repeat steps 2 and 4 as needed.
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Lee
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Tim Op't Holt
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Mike
What am I going to do with you people?
Jeez Louise. Gentlemen, gentlemen, the specs for these boats are listed right on this here very web site. The shaft diameter of the Hunter 31 or 310 is 1". Therefore, you don't have to snorkel, or open the aft engine access to determine same. However, if the boat is in the water, you will have to snorkel to put a zinc on. All that is required is a zinc ball rated for 1" shaft and an allen wrench of the correct size. As previously stated, the zinc should be placed several inches forward (towards the bow) of the prop strut. It would be very unwise to leave the boat in the water for a length of time without a zinc on the shaft. Very Regards, Mike
Jeez Louise. Gentlemen, gentlemen, the specs for these boats are listed right on this here very web site. The shaft diameter of the Hunter 31 or 310 is 1". Therefore, you don't have to snorkel, or open the aft engine access to determine same. However, if the boat is in the water, you will have to snorkel to put a zinc on. All that is required is a zinc ball rated for 1" shaft and an allen wrench of the correct size. As previously stated, the zinc should be placed several inches forward (towards the bow) of the prop strut. It would be very unwise to leave the boat in the water for a length of time without a zinc on the shaft. Very Regards, Mike
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Michael O'
Hold Your Breath!
I have the t-shirt on this one after taking off my shaft zinc underwater on my '31 in Georgian Bay (where the water is just very clear and very cold). It will take many many dives to finish the job as you will discover that inserting that tiny little allen wrench into the square while underwater is NOT easy. If you can borrow a tank, do it.
I have the t-shirt on this one after taking off my shaft zinc underwater on my '31 in Georgian Bay (where the water is just very clear and very cold). It will take many many dives to finish the job as you will discover that inserting that tiny little allen wrench into the square while underwater is NOT easy. If you can borrow a tank, do it.
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Tom Boles
Why should the zink be several inches in front..
of the strut? It seems to me that the additional mass of the zink will have less effect on shaft vibration if it's close to the strut...
of the strut? It seems to me that the additional mass of the zink will have less effect on shaft vibration if it's close to the strut...
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Steve O.
several inches answer
You put the zinc on several inches forward of the strut because if you put it tight to the strut it can interfere with the water flow to the cutless bearing. The bearing is cooled and lubed by the water around it.
You put the zinc on several inches forward of the strut because if you put it tight to the strut it can interfere with the water flow to the cutless bearing. The bearing is cooled and lubed by the water around it.
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Tom Boles
Hmmm. I can see that as a possibility, but.....
The cutless bearing is always immersed in water. There is always turbulent (sp?) water flow around and past it, so it's always in a position to be cooled & lubed. Is it possible that it needs water "forced" through it? I've never replaced one-what does the manufacturer say? Another input to the compromise that is sailboat rigging & equipment.
The cutless bearing is always immersed in water. There is always turbulent (sp?) water flow around and past it, so it's always in a position to be cooled & lubed. Is it possible that it needs water "forced" through it? I've never replaced one-what does the manufacturer say? Another input to the compromise that is sailboat rigging & equipment.
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