Yanmar 2GMF-- Won't start + mystery connector

Dec 22, 2012
102
Islander 30 Bahama Keyport
Understood. Then that just leaves me with the question of where best to install the bulb. Another challenge is finding the space to install it vertically as I understand that’s the optimal angle for the bulb to work properly.
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
I'm curious as to why some of you have difficulty with priming after changing filters.
I have a 2GM20F and have changed both the primary Racor and the secondary on the engine regularly. Other than cracking open the bleed screw on top of the secondary filter for a few turns of the engine, I have not not done anything else and the engine started and ran.
My boat sat on the hard for two winters because I did not use it last season. We launched, did the usual prep, and it started and ran immediately.
 
Oct 29, 2005
2,355
Hunter Marine 326 303 Singapore
I always top up the filters with diesel prior to screwing them back. Never had air lock problem.
 
Mar 11, 2015
357
Hunter 33.5 Tacoma, WA
BTW--I think the arrow in your pic is pointing to the wrong screw. Other diagrams and pictures I've seen indicate that the bleeder screw is the one closer to the engine block.
They are both bleeding screws. One bleeds the input fuel line, the other for the filter output.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,766
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
Those bulbs are not for diesel engines, they are for gas engines, namely outboards. There is no "optimal angle". When used on an outboard with a portable tank, they can be and are at all angles. Not to worry. Chafe is by far your more pressing concern. Don't have it somewhere that anything will chafe a hole in it. I have mine above the tank so it can't drain the fuel if it fails. It's about 7 years old and in fine shape, but I believe that's because it is outside the engine room (never gets warm or hot) and inside, out of the weather.
 
Dec 22, 2012
102
Islander 30 Bahama Keyport
Thanks to everyone for their pearls of wisdom. I'm happy to report I got the engine running today after buying and installing a primer bulb. FWIW, here are some of my lessons learned:
  • The built-in primer is useless. I tried using it hoping to get away on the cheap but no amount of pumping made a difference. On the plus side, the muscle tone in my left two fingers is superb!
  • The angle of the primer bulb does make a difference depending on manufacturer. One I tried (in the store) from Quicksilver didn't pump unless it was held vertically. Easy to test by putting your finger on the exit end and feeling the air pressure. The one I bought (5/16" BTW) worked in any direction.
  • I installed it behind the engine and located higher than the tank. It's away from anything that might chafe it. I'm considering installing a bypass hose with a diverter valve so that the bulb is only engaged when I need to bleed the system. Something I'll investigate later.
  • Pumping the bulb did force fuel through the bleeding outlets on top of the secondary filter. I wasn't able to force the fuel through the tops of the injectors no matter how much I tried. I was able to start the engine nonetheless.
  • I was really surprised when I realized that the PO never installed a Racor or other fuel/water separator, so that's an expense awaiting me. I was apparently visualizing in my head the filter I had in my previous boat that Sandy took away.
 
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Likes: VisionPNW
Jun 1, 2007
265
O'Day 322 Mt.Sinai
Although I've installed a 12V pump on my 2GM20F, I did that more for a polishing circuit than bleeding. One nuance that is easy to miss is the stroke of the engine fuel pump manual lever. The part of the downward stroke that actually pushes fuel is very small. Most of the downward stroke does nothing. You can feel it if you push downward on the lever slowly. You'll get to a point where you feel some resistance. From that point onward (very small), you're pushing fuel. If you find that the stroke is really short, the fuel pump may be sitting on the high side of the cam. Hit the starter real quick (don't start the engine) to just move things around, and try again. I have a Turbo Racor on mine for a primary, and for a straight filter change, don't need to bleed. If I do bleed, generally just the suction/low side is sufficient (exit bleed from secondary filter, and fuel injector pump bleed). I rarely have to bleed the injectors themselves.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,759
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I'm considering installing a bypass hose with a diverter valve so that the bulb is only engaged when I need to bleed the system. Something I'll investigate later.
Would be well to consider that even if you do, guess what will be sitting in it all that time.

NOT a good idea.

capta is right, read Maine Sail's Hall of Shame.

Why some people actually threaten the very existence of their boats because they are too lazy to understand good advice frightens me.

Get an electric fuel pump, either run it all the time or only when you want to.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Stu's right. Diverter valve is more fittings that can leak (fuel or air). Get an electric that can pass fuel when not energized if you dont want to run it all the time...Facet/Wolbro have some..
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Jake's system is how I do it:
Once an engine quits due to fuel starvation you may need to bleed the system to the injectors. Pump the fuel and bleed it to the filter. Loosen the screw on the banjo fitting going into the fuel pressure pump or the banjo fitting itself and bleed the fuel to this fitting with the primer pump.
Like has been mentioned, don't screw the little bleed screw too tight or the threads on the pot metal will strip (really easy). If the treads strip then the solution is to buy an new filter housing. $$$
If there are no air leaks then the easiest solution is to bleed at the injector.

Loosen the screw on the banjo fitting going into the fuel pressure pump or the banjo fitting itself and bleed the fuel to this fitting with the primer pump. Loosen the nuts on the injector tubes at the injectors and roll the engine over. Turn off the water intake. Keep rolling the engine until there is a good amount of fuel coming out of the injector fittings. Tighten the nuts on the injector tube and the engine should be ready to start. It's a good idea to clean up the spilled fuel.
Any fitting that is loosened only has to be loosened the smallest amount and fuel will bleed out. To see if there is any fuel being bled, put/wad a paper towel under or around the injector.

Careful with spinning the engine too much otherwise water will be sucked into the cylinders and bend the connecting rods. Closing the through hull is an option but spinning and waiting for some time is another but how long is the question. Releasing the vacuum break levers allows the engine to spin much faster and easier. When no bubbles are coming out of the bleed area, tighten the bolt, close the vacuum break levers, and see if the engine will start.

Bleeding at the injector end means less messing with the screws on the filter housing and therefor less chance of stripping the threads.

If the engine runs but then dies, either it hasn't been bled enough or there is an air leak.
If the banjo bolt is loosened to much then the copper washers will have to be replaced.
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,808
Ericson 29 Southport..
No amount of hand pumping on any diesel will produce fuel at the injectors. That must be done with the injection pump, i.e.: starting..