Winch for mast raising

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Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
Shanker,
When I had my H260, I placeed a block at the anchor and brought the line from the gen pole thru the block and back to the jib winch. Usually it took two of us, Joan would crank while I pushed up on the mast until I was about 30degs up, then check the shrouds and continue cranking until the mast was up. Did the same thing in reverse as we brought it down. Sure wish I had take video of us doing this...
 

Kivalo

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Jun 5, 2011
116
Hunter 260 Owasco Lake
I have a Polaris Sportsman ATV that I have occasionally used to raise the last with, I used a 2000lb winch with no problem at all. But seeing as the first 30-40degrees are tough, I was careful to make sure nothing pinched or was cockeyed before hand. But as far as weight goes, you should have no issue.

Brad
s/v KIVALO
 

Deucer

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Oct 6, 2008
157
Hunter H260 Keesler AFB Marina
Check out Soling42's posts. He has some great pictures of how he's got his winch rigged up. I've done the same (12v 3000lb winch from Harbor Freight and a 12v power pack). Put in a welded eye bolt in the base of the winch and use a shackle to connect to the anchor locker. I always hook up the main sheet as normal as a back up, but so far no incidents. Pulls the mast up like a knife through butter. BUT....just like normal mast raising, you have to watch for anything is pinched, twisting wrong, and your shrouds are not cock-eyed. You have no feel for when something snags when using an electric winch. Also, due to the pulling angle, I have to use my foot to keep the drum release from rubbing on the side of the anchor locker. No big deal, just something you have to deal with.

All in all...a great way to make rigging a 260 sooooooooo much easier, especially as I get older (already pulled by back out of shape once raising the mast). If you're not comfortable with the electric winch, the using a square knot or a sheep-bend, connect the mainsheet to another line (my jib sheets is same size (overbought)) and run the line over the cabin to the winch and use the winch to pull up the mast. You just have to watch the knot doesn't catch on cabin hardware. By the time the knot gets to the winch, the mast is high enough to easily pull up the rest of the way by hand.

Good luck and fair winds.
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
At 42' above the waterline the 26/260 has a lotta mast to raise safely. But it can be done often, easily and safely.

Here's what I've used for years, usually on the water in minutes especially when I had a free dock for our boat on the WRONG side of a fixed bridge. I have a 2000lb harbor frieght 12v ATV winch w/wired remote and brake usually on sale for $49 that might weigh 8-10lbs. The updated one you posted looks basically the same and although it's not shown, it says it comes with a remote and the specs say 42lbs(which i strongly doubt).

Mine simply clamps to my jump start pack with the large jumper cable clamps. I bolted a 3/8" eye bolt directly behind the center of the drum and retrieve the cable while gently tilting the winch so it feeds on evenly. I can stop at even the most impossible spot and it easily continues in either direction with complete control.

Necessity is the mother of invention they say. It's a really simple system powered by a 12v jump start pack that's all easily stowed in a small canvas bag and as Deaucer so kindly said, it's as smooth as butter.

There are a few other simple but important mods I use to keep the shrouds aligned, turnbuckles upright, stow the gin pole conveniently and easily draw down the forestay without over tensioning the rig. All added up to be a much smoother, safer and problem free system.

Be safe and have a great season, Mike
 

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Kivalo

.
Jun 5, 2011
116
Hunter 260 Owasco Lake
At 42' above the waterline the 26/260 has a lotta mast to raise safely. But it can be done often, easily and safely.

Here's what I've used for years, usually on the water in minutes especially when I had a free dock for our boat on the WRONG side of a fixed bridge. I have a 2000lb harbor frieght 12v ATV winch w/wired remote and brake usually on sale for $49 that might weigh 8-10lbs. The updated one you posted looks basically the same and although it's not shown, it says it comes with a remote and the specs say 42lbs(which i strongly doubt).

Mine simply clamps to my jump start pack with the large jumper cable clamps. I bolted a 3/8" eye bolt directly behind the center of the drum and retrieve the cable while gently tilting the winch so it feeds on evenly. I can stop at even the most impossible spot and it easily continues in either direction with complete control.

Necessity is the mother of invention they say. It's a really simple system powered by a 12v jump start pack that's all easily stowed in a small canvas bag and as Deaucer so kindly said, it's as smooth as butter.

There are a few other simple but important mods I use to keep the shrouds aligned, turnbuckles upright, stow the gin pole conveniently and easily draw down the forestay without over tensioning the rig. All added up to be a much smoother, safer and problem free system.

Be safe and have a great season, Mike
First let me say, that is a really nice set up! Great job! However I have a question, how does the winch cable wind when the mast is nearly down? Doesn't the cable get tangled due to the odd "approach angle"?
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
The gin pole maintains the feed at a near perfect angle over the drum even with the mast down and the gin pole vertical. Secondly, with the eye directly behind the drum it balances the load nicely and the whole winch easily pivots just enough to correct for the angle up/down. Generally when raising the mast I only need to gently pull down/up on the tail of the winch to feed the line onto the drum more uniformly.

While lowering, once it's loose I unhook the cable hook from the gin pole eye and drop the loose cable, winch and remote into the canvas bag in the pic and set it down in the V-berth hatch.

I also removed any unneeded cable from the winch making sure to secure the tail on the drum and leaving 4 or 5 wraps at it most extended length.

Good luck and be safe. mike


If you could see it done, it's really a sweet set up. It's so easy even your snacktician can do it, but she may not be happy(she's happier with the new boat.....(pic of an earlier trailer mount version on a 240. The on-board version is far better)
 

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Oct 10, 2010
269
Hunter H260 Gull Lake
Winch

Hey Mike, that's what I'm talking about!! Good to know that a 2000lb winch will make that lift, that was my biggest concern. I will heed the advice of going slowly, making sure nothing gets tangled or kinked. I believe this will be a winter project for me.

Well done Mike.

Shanker
 

Deucer

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Oct 6, 2008
157
Hunter H260 Keesler AFB Marina
Shanker,

I don't use the electric winch for putting the mast down. I just hook up the main sheet like the book says and push it over. One thing I didn't mention (and this is true if you use the main sheet, or an electric winch). If you run the jib halyard through the fairlead, then tie if off, it puts a LOT of torsion on the mast (broke the foot once). I use a second line ran the opposite way and cinch it up real tight. That minimizes the torsion on the mast. I think Mike ties his jib halyard to the mast which eliminates this issue. I just haven't had time to play with that method.
 

Kivalo

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Jun 5, 2011
116
Hunter 260 Owasco Lake
Shanker,

I don't use the electric winch for putting the mast down. I just hook up the main sheet like the book says and push it over. One thing I didn't mention (and this is true if you use the main sheet, or an electric winch). If you run the jib halyard through the fairlead, then tie if off, it puts a LOT of torsion on the mast (broke the foot once). I use a second line ran the opposite way and cinch it up real tight. That minimizes the torsion on the mast. I think Mike ties his jib halyard to the mast which eliminates this issue. I just haven't had time to play with that method.
I know what your talking about. On my 260 the jib halyard exits the mast around where the stanchions connect to the mast and then it travels to a pulley at the base of the mast. From there it is routed to the rope clutch. That eliminates the tension issue...mostly. Isn't this how all the 26/260's are?

EDIT: Mike, thanks for the info. Great system you rigged up.

Brad
s/v KIVALO
 

Deucer

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Oct 6, 2008
157
Hunter H260 Keesler AFB Marina
My halyards exit at the foot of the mast toward the front, causes a lot of pull to port.
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
Deucer, It'd be better to pull up some slack and tie it off around the mast at the base or at the exit point. There'd be no twist then.

When stepping the mast I actually use both the jib and spinnaker halyard attached to a D shackle on my gin pole. They divide the load and I have a backup if one were to fail.

Since I have a jib furler I then just leave the unused jib halyard attached to the gin pole(it acts as a leash since I lost a $120 gin pole overboard, arrgg) and clip the pole against the mast into a couple of pvc couplings pop riveted on the mast. That way it's out of the cabin and yet far more easily available. Here's a pic of a $1 mod that's worth its weight in gold.

Have a great day, Mike
 

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Mar 2, 2011
489
Compac 14 Charleston, SC
Does anyone know what size of winch would be required to raise the mast of a 260? I'm looking at a 2000lb winch but I remember reading that the first 30 or 40 degrees of lift is quite stressful. Here is a link to the winch I'm considering.

http://www.etrailer.com/Electric-Winch,Trailer-Winch/Superwinch/1220210.html
I bought one yesterday at Harbor Freight that looks almost exactly the same on clearance for $39.95. The yellow control box is the same and it's the same 2000 pound rating. Might be an older version but it was lots cheaper to buy. I plan to rig mine for use on my H23 mast. If the cheaper one is sold out, might try this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-with-automatic-load-holding-brake-68146.html
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I have not tried an electric winch, though it is obviously somewhat easier. I use a 4-to-1 block and tackle that the prev owner left me (not the main sheet blocks, but similar) and a long line. I use an aluminum (pretty thick walled) tube as a gin pole, also left by PO. No spinnaker halyard, so I just use the jib halyard to the pole, then the block and tackle attached to the pole, and the other end to a welded eye on an extension tube mounted to the trailer's vertical bar (the bar that holds the trailer winch). The free end of the line runs aft through the jib sheet block to the jib winch. That winch provides plenty of power with the 4-to-1 blocks to lift or lower the mast, and I like the manual control - you are cranking it up slowly, and can work with your "mast holders" to ensure no wraps or shroud twists.
 
Aug 3, 2009
19
H 260 Have Trailer Will Travel
I really feel the need to add some things here.

First of all, cheapass winches are usually worth exactly what you pay for them. Sometimes you'll get good service and sometimes an assembly which represents the cheapest down and dirty components that the Chinese can find only gets you a serious accident waiting to happen.

First of all, forget the line in the ads which says something like "weather resistant". What you need in this application is "waterproof", a very specific designation which means what it says and does not short out when you use it on, oh, let's say, a BOAT.

Now maybe you never ship a drop of water but I'm willing to bet that wherever you are it rains occasionally. What exactly is your contingency plan for the mast being half way up (or down) on the end of a 5/32 steel cable when the crummy Chinese motor gets a few drops of water in the wrong place and quits?

There certainly are waterproof winches out there. They just cost more than $40.

Second, steel cable? Seriously? Aside from the weight, steel - are you sitting down? - rusts and corrodes and degrades and wears out and breaks. Even if you only use it once a year, unless it's in a dry place - which does not mean an anchor locker - moisture will be working away on it. Truly.

These things are available with synthetic - usually nylon - cables which are not only one hell of a lot better suited to a marine environment but also - happy day - make the whole unit weigh about half as much. And in the event of catastrophe they won't a) gouge out a huge chunk of gelcoat and b) won't rip out a huge chunk of human flesh.

The other advantage is that you don't have the problem with the cable not spooling correctly. Standing there tipping the unit back and forth probably does work but it's dangerous. These things have claimed one whole heck of a lot of fingers.

Third, pay close attention to the amp draw, then compare that with the "ft per minute" rating on the winch and the potential in your power pack.

I've seen Harbor Freight winches that specifically tell you to run for no more than 15 seconds and then let it "rest" for 15 minutes before powering it up again, at which point the amp draw was so big that you'll need that time to go power up your jump box again.

And I guarantee you that your mast isn't going 100% vertical in 15 seconds.

There are also winches out there that pull 6 ft. per minute. They use low amps but you'll fall asleep waiting for your mast to get up.

Fourth, when they brag that the unit has "dynamic braking" do you really know what that means? Seriously? And do you trust Chinese slave labor to assemble it correctly or even tell you the truth about it? This is your life we're talking about here, never mind the $30,000 boat. You're putting all of that in the hands of a low grade steel friction clutch (there's that steel thing again; moisture and carbon steel don't mix) with steel bearings bought from the lowest bidder in Shanghai? Really?

Spend $200 or so on a decent waterproof winch with a synthetic cable and a decent remote.

Safety isn't something you go cheap on.
 
Mar 2, 2011
489
Compac 14 Charleston, SC
I looked at just about every 12 volt winch I could find in person. The "cheap" one I bought is more than adequate for my needs. I don't leave it in the boat, it stays inside my truck nice and dry. It pulls about 12-15 fpm with the light load of my Hunter 23 mast. It has a rated capacity of 2000 lbs but I am only lifting maybe 100 lbs or less.

If I could find a similar winch made in the USA I would buy it even if it cost twice as much.
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
While a Chinese winch is cheap(along with just about everything else Chinese made) I've had excellent service from this little HF version due to the fairly light loads it easily and quite quickly handles. If I'd have had to over design this simple lift system with all things marine grade and American made for it to only end up stored 99% of its life it would've been ridiculous on a trailer boat. The reality is that these components have seen over 6years of use, are easily removed to a dry location after each use and with a through inspection they're still in like new condition.

A lot of passion went into your post but reading between the lines it understandably sounds like it your concern revolves around shipping jobs overseas which we can only fix when Americans regain our former mfg lead. There's just not enough room on this site for what it'd take to do that. After years of use, your concerns of rust and potential failure from strain are simply over stated if the winch is removed(permanently mounting this winch is out of the question but was never the app).

Hey Fred, here's a friendly challenge for those of us with bad backs and light wallets. Revise this very simple design possibly even using an 18v Dewalt 1/2" RA drill(or any inexpensive American made ver) and I'll gladly throw this HF winch into the sea to spend its last days as a fish reef....seriously.
 

MrUnix

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Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
This months mailer from HF has a 'Super Coupon' for the 2000lb winch (#68146). $49.99 with coupon, limit 5 :)

Cheers,
Brad
 
Mar 2, 2011
489
Compac 14 Charleston, SC
Don't get me started on imports, trade or union issues...this is a great, safe and reliable solution for me. I buy local when possible but why spend $200 on a winch I use twice year?

The idea of replacing the wire with rope sounds good but for now it works great.
 
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