We have a 2002 Hunter 420 that we bought a few months ago. With lots of projects to do after moving aboard I finally got to cleaning the bilge. There was a few inches of water and a lot of crap to clean out but I finally got it clean (if not sparkling) and decided to check on it the next day. Much to my surprise it had a few inches of water again! I sucked out the water and wiped it dry and noticed that at the aft corner of the bilge, next to a large limber hole, there seems to be two weep holes that are slowly letting water back into the bilge. They seem to be there on purpose because I can insert a small wire into the holes, see picture with a red wire inserted into one of the holes. My question is what is the purpose of these holes and where is the water coming from? Throwing caution to the wind I tasted the water and it seems to be fresh water, not salty.
Water in our bilge - from where?
- Thread starter S. Dutton
- Start date
I'm not familiar with the Hunter, but on my boat, those limber holes drain the shallow bilge under the aft cabin. Depending on how the boat is sitting, they will sometimes drain for quite a while, especially if I have just drained the water heater.
Other Hunters, like the 85 H34 have a "false bilge" created by the pan, that sits atop the real bilge on the hull. Many H34 owners, including me, have removed the pan and placed the bilge pump in the real bilge on the hull surface. This allows all liquids to be removed by the bilge pump, whereas before, water was being trapped between the pan and hull.
I'm not familiar with the newer models of hunter construction however like previous post the older vintage hunters like my 1983 h34 had what others on this forum refer to as a false bildge. Which some have called it a manufacturer defect or as I referred to it as poor quality control when the cabin was joined to the hull.
You may have the same issues.
However fresh water can get into the bilge from many things.
Fresh water tanks, hot water heater, fresh water plumbing lines/connections, deck hardware that the bedding has failed, mast leaks, airconditioners, icebox, and even condensation just to name a few things. Unfortunately as you can imagine just about everything on a boat can allow water to accumulate into the bildge.
If the boat is in the water I would inspect all thru hull fittings and stuffing box just to rule out seawater leaks that have been deluted by standing freshwater that was already in the bildge.
Your going to have to do some detective work.
Start with obvious things like inspect all plumbing and connections. Then maybe drain water tanks one by one.
If it has not rained recently then you can rule that out, but if is defiantly fresh water most likely a plumbing connection.
Good hunting !
Hope this helps.
You may have the same issues.
However fresh water can get into the bilge from many things.
Fresh water tanks, hot water heater, fresh water plumbing lines/connections, deck hardware that the bedding has failed, mast leaks, airconditioners, icebox, and even condensation just to name a few things. Unfortunately as you can imagine just about everything on a boat can allow water to accumulate into the bildge.
If the boat is in the water I would inspect all thru hull fittings and stuffing box just to rule out seawater leaks that have been deluted by standing freshwater that was already in the bildge.
Your going to have to do some detective work.
Start with obvious things like inspect all plumbing and connections. Then maybe drain water tanks one by one.
If it has not rained recently then you can rule that out, but if is defiantly fresh water most likely a plumbing connection.
Good hunting !
Hope this helps.
Check your water heater first. Pour a cup of warm water, mixed with a food coloring dye, into the cold water supply line of your water heater. Wait 24 hours. If your standing water is tinted, you found the source. If not, put a lot of dye in your main water tank. Check again.
If that's not the source, do you store bottled water on board?
If that's not the source, do you store bottled water on board?
The water is likely coming out from the many gallons of water that are probably trapped in the hull stringers under the sole. That water originates from sea spray, rain leaks, deck washing, wet swimsuits, spills, fresh water leaks etc. That water is usually released into the bilge as the boat moves or overflows. Some of that water is stagnant and probably fouled and stinky so it is best to keep it contained.
You might use these to make sure the water is NOT salty.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aquachek...t-Sodium-Chloride-Test-Kit-10-Strips/45441366
My H430 main bilge looks like yours.
It is the HULL, not a pan. [note the keel bolt and washer in pict]
The Main bilge was designed to gravity drain all non oil/diesel water that enters the boat.
It took me over a year to find my last fresh water [rain] leak. If you cannot relate the water to the bilge level to rain fall, then it must be a fresh water systems leak from the direction of the red wire.
Jim...
As you have surmised, you are beginning an odyssey that many of us are on - a dry bilge. You are lucky that you've found the direction of the water, and it's aft of the mast. The bright side is that you're halfway there already! As @Capt Robbie pointed out, any of these fresh water sources can be leaking, slightly, and give you a few inches of water in a small bilge as you have pictured - probably only a gallon or two. On the bright side, it's one of two sources - rain water or fresh water you pumped on-board.
I encourage you to do a little 'boat yoga' and find out what is in that aft direction. I'm guessing it's probably a leaking fresh water tank / line, rather than something severe like a hull joint failure. Do you have AC back there?
I encourage you to do a little 'boat yoga' and find out what is in that aft direction. I'm guessing it's probably a leaking fresh water tank / line, rather than something severe like a hull joint failure. Do you have AC back there?
Have worked off and on for years trying to get a dry bilge on my 410 (same hull as 420). At this point in time my efforts have been successful. A common source (salt water) is the stern deck joint that is in the water. If that's not it there are still many possibilities. Rain from a multitude of possible locations, refrigeration drain, A/C condensate, leaking fittings, and the list goes on. You have to do extensive searching and trial and error.
the forward sink and shower drain into the bilge, water from the shaft seal goes into the bilge, if water leaks out of the sump pump box for the aft shower and sink they will drain into the bilge and finally if the water pump system for the fridge drips it goes into the bilge. we have a 430 which is the same hull
Thank so much everyone for the advice. The sodium chloride test strips are a great idea since the area we are currently at has somewhat brackish water. We only recently bought the boat and during the survey one note was that a couple stanchions were leaking (unfortunately he didn't say which ones or how he knew) so that could be one source of the water. I previously found a fresh water leak, a cracked line, and fixed that. We live aboard so during these cooler months condensation has been a problem so that could be another source. I drained the water, we went away for a few days, and there was significantly less water when we got back. We will check it again in a couple days to see if that trend continues.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Test your brackish water with a test strip, note the reading. Then you have a reference for normal marina water intrusion. When you get to the Atlantic, test that water too.
Why?
Then you know where the water came from.
I use those on my engine antifreeze [annually] versus a strip tested with fresh antifreeze from the bottle.
Also on my engine oil.
Guess why?
Jim...
I thought mine were leaking too. Nope.
Easy test with shore water on the base or a food coloring dye water, poured slowly over each suspected stanchion.
The most abused stanchions are the ones near your exit gates.
Why?
They have been used by dock helpers to "pull" my 13 ton boat closer to the dock.
Check those first!!
Jim...
I pulled my boat out for the winter, and the bilge was dusty dry.
I went out to check on her after about 2 months...and found water in the bilge! She is on the hard and covered... I guess rain can get on the deck at the toe rails.
Water is sneaky that way.
Greg
I went out to check on her after about 2 months...and found water in the bilge! She is on the hard and covered... I guess rain can get on the deck at the toe rails.
Water is sneaky that way.
Greg
We double-braced our gate stanchions quite a few years ago. Several other boats in our club have made that upgrade. It is easily the most appreciated change to the boat (on a daily basis) that we have ever made.I thought mine were leaking too. Nope.
Easy test with shore water on the base or a food coloring dye water, poured slowly over each suspected stanchion.
The most abused stanchions are the ones near your exit gates.
Why?
They have been used by dock helpers to "pull" my 13 ton boat closer to the dock.
Check those first!!
Jim...
While an ignorant "dock side helper" could still potentially harm the boat by grabbing a stanchion, damage is a LOT less likely now. The security when boarding or departing the deck is wonderful.
One last dumb question, but before I drill a hole to remount the bilge pump and switch, can i drill a hole in the new bilge bottom?
Mike Oldak,
I screwed mine onto the new exposed bilge floor with small 1/4 inch stainless screws however if I was to do it again I would just use clear silicon if you can keep it dry for about an hour to cure.
The hull is about a 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick on the keel joint but still be careful when drilling. I drilled mine with a depth gauge very slowly.
When I installed my secondary redundant bilge pump I just screwed the pump to a peice of scrap corian counter top then silicone it to the new bilge floor.
Hope this helps
I screwed mine onto the new exposed bilge floor with small 1/4 inch stainless screws however if I was to do it again I would just use clear silicon if you can keep it dry for about an hour to cure.
The hull is about a 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick on the keel joint but still be careful when drilling. I drilled mine with a depth gauge very slowly.
When I installed my secondary redundant bilge pump I just screwed the pump to a peice of scrap corian counter top then silicone it to the new bilge floor.
Hope this helps
I think I'll take your advice and glue it down
The boat is being hauled for bottom painting so it could be a great time to do it.
The boat is being hauled for bottom painting so it could be a great time to do it.