Want to change boot stripe

[Jacomo Sailor]

Getting ready to detail my new to me 84 C22. Will be stripping down the old waxes and residues, numbers and vinyl name to do Poliglow. While it's stripped, I'd like to change the color of the boot stripe and waterline stripe. Right now the stripes are brown which IMO makes it look rather dated. Long term plan has me changing the upholstery colors and sail covers anyway. Torn between vinyl stripes or Interlux Perfection. Anyone here used vinyl and wish they had painted instead, or vise versa?

 

[CloudDiver]

Your boot stripe is not a consistent thickness all the way down... at least mine isn't. A vinyl stripe 3 or 4 inches wide would be really expensive too.

You rally don't need Interlux Perfection at $70 a quart, you wouldn't even use half of it. When you mix that two part stuff you should plan to use it all or it is a pain to measure small batches. I would suggest the Interlux Stripe Enamel that comes in pint cans. Its good stuff and I believe, but don't quote me on this, you will get good coverage from one coat. I used Brightsides on my boot stripe because I have a gallon of white, which is fine but the paint is translucent so I must do more than one coat.

Also, get really good tape... I used Scotch Blue with edge lock and still got some leakage. Maybe I didn't press it down firm enough?

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Thanks Cloud, didn't really think about the thickness changing with the curvature of the hull. The reason I would choose two-part paint is for longevity. I used brightside on my clipper Marine 21 and a classic glastron runabout. Properly prepared and primed both boats, the stuff was really easy to use and both boats came out beautiful, however seven years later both boats are flaking like crazy. Maybe I wouldn't have that problem with the poly glow on top of it though.

 

[CaptDon01]

In salt water, where the boat was originally designed and sailed, the boat "normally" floats with about a 1" or so with the waterline stripe out of the water. I've noticed when my boat is in fresh water, due to the lower density of the water, the bottom portion of the waterline is touching the water. On our original C-22,(attached photo), I raised the waterline and used Interlux polyurethane topside enamel. I just taped it off and used one of the little disposable rollers and applied a couple coats. The top of the black bottom paint was the original top of the factory waterline. By the way, the photo was taken when the family we sold the boat to moored her at Lake Jacomo. It's been 20 or more years, and still looks nice.

Don

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

I love the look with the bottom paint slightly above the waterline and the separation between the bottom paint and the stripe. Keeps it looking a lot cleaner. As it stands now, the scum line (it wasn't scrubbed after it's last haul out) is right at the top of the stripe at the stern and just below the bottom of the stripe at the bow. I plan to raise the bottom paint accordingly to make it parallel with the actual waterline and a couple of inches above. Gonna have to change the position of the stripe anyway.

 

[NCNoviceCouple]

I used vinyl tape

My wife and I removed and replaced the boot stripe and trim stripe below the rub rail on our Precision 23 last year. We removed the stripes with a 3M Stripe Off Wheel from Advance Auto or Auto Zone.. We tried other methods of removing the old stripes and they were a waste of time. You will need a fairly hefty corded drill to use the wheel. We used the shadow line that was left as a guide for the new stripe. I sprayed soapy water on the hull so the stripe could be moved around a little. Then I used a squeegee to remove the water. The final result was not perfect, but when the boat is in the water it looks fine. It was well worth the effort.

Cost for the stripes was around $150 and the removal wheel was another $45. Applying the boot stripe around the curve of the middle of the hull was challenging, but the vinyl has a little stretch to it.

 

[greg_m]

In salt water, where the boat was originally designed and sailed, the boat "normally" floats with about a 1" or so with the waterline stripe out of the water. I've noticed when my boat is in fresh water, due to the lower density of the water, the bottom portion of the waterline is touching the water. On our original C-22,(attached photo), I raised the waterline and used Interlux polyurethane topside enamel. I just taped it off and used one of the little disposable rollers and applied a couple coats. The top of the black bottom paint was the original top of the factory waterline. By the way, the photo was taken when the family we sold the boat to moored her at Lake Jacomo. It's been 20 or more years, and still looks nice.

Don

I don't see the attached photo!