Volvo Penta 2002 Engine Anode Location

JRacer

.
Aug 9, 2011
1,333
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
Wanting to replace the anode (zinc) in my First 310's Volvo Penta 2002 engine. I am presuming that it has never been replaced - boat has always been fresh water. I have the parts explosion of the cylinder head from VP Parts Express and it appears that the anode is supposed to be on the front of the engine under or near where the thermostat goes. But, before I order parts, I wanted to pull the old one and see what condition it was in and what kind of cap holds it in place (male vs female) and whether I need to get a new cap as well as the anode. So, I went out to the boat last night to look for it and can not find it. Does anyone know where this thing is located?

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JRacer

.
Aug 9, 2011
1,333
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
Figured it out - This model engine does not have an anode - it's the "Freshwater" cooled (antifreeze) version of the 2002B not the "Seawater cooled" - Raw water" version. Mystery solved. Good news is that is one less maintenance item to deal with!
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
This model engine does not have an anode
You use your shaft Zinc.
So don't forget that Maintenance and make sure the engine is electrically connected to you shaft.
Jim...

PS: Not sure about every model VP, but no engine Zinc on my shaft model.
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,096
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
You use your shaft Zinc.
So don't forget that Maintenance and make sure the engine is electrically connected to you shaft.
Jim...

PS: Not sure about every model VP, but no engine Zinc on my shaft model.
Are you sure about that advice? Some Volvo Penta engines are designed (using relays) to be electrically isolated except during the moment it starts and/or the moment the kill switch is pressed. The rest of the time they are isolated. Those models will not have electrical continuity with the shaft.
That's why they don't need engine zincs. If you connect the shaft you defeat the design.
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,123
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Yes.

Also, it not possible for an anode to protect motor/cooling system metals unless they share the same electrolyte. The shaft anode and internal motor surfaces (or the heat exchanger internal surfaces) do not share the same electrolyte with the shaft anode.

The lesson is - if your motor or the heat exchanger has anodes - keep them fresh. Keeping shaft anodes well maintained is important but that will not protect the motor or the heat exchanger.

Charles
 
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Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
PS: Not sure about every model VP, but no engine Zinc on my shaft model.
As I said.

I would strongly suggest that you check you starter grounding, if you think a kill switch disconnects the starter from ground and/or a electrical connection to a straight shaft.

I think VP S-Drive models are different for sure.
______
It is simple check with a DVM. Touch your engine, and touch your shaft.
Jim...
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
Keeping shaft anodes well maintained is important but that will not protect the motor or the heat exchanger.
I check my Engine and Heat Exchanger with a AgCl reference Probe and I assure you, my VP is protected by my shaft Zinc.
Jim...

PS: My check includes the Engine coolant system too.;)
 
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Jun 14, 2010
2,096
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
As I said.

I would strongly suggest that you check you starter grounding, if you think a kill switch disconnects the starter from ground and/or a electrical connection to a straight shaft.

I think VP S-Drive models are different for sure.
______
It is simple check with a DVM. Touch your engine, and touch your shaft.
Jim...
It's not about the kill switch. It's a set of relays that ONLY connect the engine ground and hot while the kill/start are engaged. On those models, VP isolated the shaft from the block. They isolated hot and ground also. No button pushed = isolated engine. Mine is one of those: MD22p
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
They isolated hot and ground also
Whew!:plus:

Mine is MDL22B. Mine doesn't. Plus my transmission is sea water cooled.

Did you check for the Potential of the #10 green/yellow block ground too?
I thought that ground was a ABYC standard.
Jim...
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,096
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
Whew!:plus:

Mine is MDL22B. Mine doesn't. Plus my transmission is sea water cooled.

Did you check for the Potential of the #10 green/yellow block ground too?
I thought that ground was a ABYC standard.
Jim...
ABYC is a voluntary US standard and (I think) it is not mandated by law. Volvo Penta is a European company and engine installation is the boat builder's responsibility.
I have not checked the potential.
 
Feb 14, 2014
7,418
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
ABYC is a voluntary US standard and (I think) it is not mandated by law. Volvo Penta is a European company and engine installation is the boat builder's responsibility.
:plus::plus:

But try to resell a boat in USA without meeting ABYC electrical.:(
Jim...
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,096
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
:plus::plus:

But try to resell a boat in USA without meeting ABYC electrical.:(
Jim...
I don't think it's an issue, depending on the non-conforming areas. An isolated engine such as VP does on the MD22 series is an advantage. Bonding only increases electrolysis.
I think some ABYC requirements are stupid. Examples: Bonding thru-hulls to electrical ground. Dumb. Isolated is better. Or not allowing a fuel drain petcock at the bottom of a tank. Stupid. Drain valves can be backed up by threaded caps for redundant closure, and if it was easier to drain water/sediment it could save many boats from engine failure in a seaway resulting in disaster and/or close calls that put crews at risk.
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,123
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
I don't think it's an issue, depending on the non-conforming areas. An isolated engine such as VP does on the MD22 series is an advantage. Bonding only increases electrolysis..
If bonding cables are intact and end at an anode all the bonded parts cannot suffer any 'electrolysis' because the anode will protect all metals in the bonded circuit. One will not find Volvo recommending not bonding the motor even on their electronically isolated motor setups. Bonding underwater metals simply does not (cannot) increase a risk of corrosion. For sure bonding cable failures ignored are a threat - and even more so with poor alloys in the string.

I think some ABYC requirements are stupid. Examples: Bonding thru-hulls to electrical ground. Dumb. Isolated is better. Or not allowing a fuel drain petcock at the bottom of a tank. Stupid. Drain valves can be backed up by threaded caps for redundant closure, and if it was easier to drain water/sediment it could save many boats from engine failure in a seaway resulting in disaster and/or close calls that put crews at risk.
Bonding fastened to the all-ship-negative just means the shaft anode(s) are taking up protection of the bonded collection. Hence better to have a separate anode for the bonded collection.

Thru-hulls - bonded or not - have nothing to do (neither galvanically or corrosionally speaking) with fuel tank drains or any other part of the fuel system for that matter.

Agree with your view that with high grade (85 5 5 5) through hulls there might be little reason to engage in bonding because they are already very corrosion resistant particularly in fiberglass hull (not necessarily a good choice in a metal or wood hull by the way.) But that still depends on whether you are in marina or not. Either way bonding makes very good sense and - and cannot possibly hurt - no matter the grade of the underwater metals.

Bonding traps stray current - the kind that your own boat produces which is the usual case -- don't discount its utility.

Charles
 
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