V17 - Issues/Refit

[topcat0399]

I've seen worse. Way worse.
Looking at the previous holes it is obvious those deck penetrations were never potted so when the bolts let water through it went directly into that wood.

Make sure your compression post is installed and at the correct height.

If that was mine I would let that dry out completely.
Lay a layer of thickened resin over the entire area to fill the holes and all gaps.
Immediately lay 2 layers of Biaxial cloth over it.
Slap a piece of 1/4 Inch ply with edges cut at over that that fits closely to the edges.
Another layer of thickened resin followed either by your old cut out top or -
6-7 Layers of new bi-ax cloth. I usually top with a layer of CSM that is essentially sacrificial
because I would be sanding a lot of that off while smoothing and shaping.
The main issue you might have is that you cut pretty close to the edges where the "humps" are on the sides and rear.
If you want your new top to have strength it needs to be well overlapped to the existing fiberglass to spread the load.
In the front it will be easy - where the humps are not so much. Lots of hand sanding in your future on those places.

Once your new top is in and shaped and smoothed - redrill the holes for the bolts and POT THEM.
Paint.
Counter sink your holes and reinstall your mast step, I use butyl tape from Maine Sail.
Put up your mast and make adjustments as needed because your height may have changed slightly.
After I put my new top on I had to remove 1/2" from the bottom of my compression post to make everything right.

It will be a learning experience for you, its not hard, just can be tedious with all of the steps.
Especially sanding along those humps.

This is just off the top of my head, there are many approaches to this - I'm not saying mine is right, just a method.

 

[Vanka472]

Hi Topcat!

Thanks for all your information! Been busy her for the last few weeks so haven't had a chance to take a look at the boat much. But I will be getting started on here soon! Your explanation makes lots of sense. Just a few questions.

You mentioned initially laying down some resin. Are you saying, there is no need to sand down the top of the core that is already in there? Or for that matter, to replace it at all? It looks fairly intact but wasn't sure the right step moving forward.

Then place a 1/4 plywood on top of that (after the resin?)

I think I will be laying down new fiberglass, as the old stuff is pretty beat up. I know there is going to be lots of work there, but your explanation of what to use sounds great, and I will bring that to the shop that I will be buying the stuff from.

You are right on the main issue being the fact that I had to cut the top sheet, so far to the humps, for the hatch to slide over. I wonder if the right plan now is to the hand sand those down a little bit and then lay the new sheets over them, while also covering the part that I cut. This way they are more structurally holding? In which case I would have to make sure that they shaped correctly and then sand them down afterward. You're not wrong on lots of sanding in the future!

My concern is that the compression post on the inside now. Do I have to adjust it or change the length of it? This way the deck can "fall" back down a bit, because I am adding lots of layers of glass on top I don't want it to be bowing more than it was before as then I won't be able to open the hatch.

Potting the holes will be the correct way to do this. Once you have laid down the sheets, how do you see the old holes? Do you drill from the inside out? Guess?

It will be lots of learning. I am glad to have someone else helping me on the project, as it at least allows someone to talk things through...lol

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Eb

 

[Vanka472]

Also another quick question!

I will be sanding down the top deck for new paint as I wait for in between coats of glassing.

It looks like the last owner just slapped some paint on top of the white deck that was originally there. It is already pealing up in the area that you sit, and pretty badly at that. I want to bring the boat back to the original white deck.

What are the best ways to do this? Just hand sand it? I will remove someone off the hardware, but for now, I just wanna get all the big spots and then work my way down removing hardware as I need to.

What grit? will a belt and a palm sander be enough?

 

[topcat0399]

"Are you saying, there is no need to sand down the top of the core that is already in there?"

If you are going to keep that existing wood absolutely sand it with at least 60 grit and clean it (vacuum and acetone wipe up)before gluing anything to it. You might fill the edge gaps with thickened resin and paint the existing wood with resin or just coat it all with thickened resin then lay glass on it.

Probable Repair Steps.
Prepare the area:
Remove everything that you don't want to interfere with the new work.
Prep the edges and overlaps. (Proper bevels, curves, sharp edges, sanding ALL future glue areas with appropriate grit sandpaper)
Clean thoroughly. Sweep, vacuum, wipe (use acetone), dry.
Prepare your lay up:
Smooth your glass ahead of time
Decide what needs to be filled and with what material (thickened resin for crevices and gaps for example)
Cut out the glass and test fit for lay ups and practice the lay up.
Prepare for Resin use. (measures, cups, tools, brushes, etc)
Lay it Up:
With what you are doing I could probably lay most of it all in one session.

I have not addressed METHODS or TECHNIQUES of prepping and laying glass. You tube is your friend and even then you will make mistakes that will end up really teaching you. The troubles almost always come at the edges.

KNOW:
What is a proper bevel when joining to existing glass
How sharp a corner will glass Matt turn
How to prevent air bubbles in a layup
How picky to be and why

Unless you plan to make a career of that old boat - I would consider just gluing that existing cutout back in and fixing the crack.
That board isn't that damaged. Likely that big crack and the unsealed holes just let most of the water drain inside the boat so the board didn't have much chance to rott.

Your boat your choice as stewy would say...

 

[topcat0399]

Also another quick question!

I will be sanding down the top deck for new paint as I wait for in between coats of glassing.

It looks like the last owner just slapped some paint on top of the white deck that was originally there. It is already pealing up in the area that you sit, and pretty badly at that. I want to bring the boat back to the original white deck.

What are the best ways to do this? Just hand sand it? I will remove someone off the hardware, but for now, I just wanna get all the big spots and then work my way down removing hardware as I need to.

What grit? will a belt and a palm sander be enough?

So, you want to restore the gel coat from paint?

That is a whole world all its own.

Google man, read up. Many others have done it and its a process. A lot of work.
I choose paint.

 

[Vanka472]

Hey Topcat! Good to hear from you as usual.

Your explanation was very in-depth and awesome to read through. You're very knowledgeable!

You are right to an extent. I don't wanna make a career out of this. I do wanna make sure it looks nice, but if it's too far out of my wheelhouse, I don't mind find an easier solution.

You have done an amazing job of pretty much how to do this with new glass. But you had mentioned possibly just using the old sheet. How would you suggest fixing the crack? I would want the old sheet to "mold back into the original shape so that it doesn't affect the mast step like it was. I am quite concerned about the edges now because of how far I cut it out.

Thanks!

 

[Vanka472]

So, you want to restore the gel coat from paint?

That is a whole world all its own.

Google man, read up. Many others have done it and its a process. A lot of work.
I choose paint.

I think I might have been confusing there. Yes, I just wanna paint a white over it. But I need to get this wretched peeling blue off of it. I saw that people did it, but not sure of how. I just wanna make sure I don't mess up the gelcoat underneath. Again this is just for the top deck.