Tying toilet into sink drain

Feb 11, 2017
34
Csn somebody explain how the following should be plumbed with the info below?
* I have 2 thruhull valves now which I want to retain:
Toilet intake
Add ink drain

* I would like the option to flip a valve from sink to allow me to flush the last for the day with fresh water before heading home. While on the boat for the day, I would continue to let sink drain out thruhull and the toilet to use seawater.
* the toilet would continue to use the seawater intake except for the last flush of the day.
* for winerization or running CP or vinegar into toilet I could flip a switch to use the sink drain

The only thing I can think of would be to use 2 Y-valves but wanted to hear if there is a better approach. I do not want to always flush with fresh water as that is limited.
Any ideas would be appreciated
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,725
- - LIttle Rock
It's a LOT easier and simpler than that. Just reroute the toilet inlet line to tee into the head sink drain line below the waterline, as close to the seacock as possible. That's all you need to do. And you now have an unused thru-hull that would be ideal for a washdown pump.
Flush normally with sea water till you're ready to close up the boat, then close the sink drain thru-hull and fill the sink with water. Flush the toilet. Because the thru-hull is closed the toilet will pull the water out of the sink...rinsing the sea water out of the whole system--intake line, pump, channel in the rim of the bowl and the toilet discharge line. When you're ready to winterize, pump the toilet as dry as you can get it, then pour the antifreeze down the sink while you flush the toilet...or just fill the sink with it and then flush the toilet. Voila! toilet and tank are winterized. .
On some boats, sailing on that tack with the sink drain thru-hull open can cause a geyser in the sink. A plug in the sink solves that problem.
If you had my book(see link in my signature), you wouldn't have had to ask. :pimp: The title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading. Although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "sanitation system 101" manual that helps boat owners learn how to prevent 90% of problems instead having to cure 'em and also has a lot of other useful information that comes in very handy too.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,399
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
“Flush normally with sea water till you're ready to close up the boat“
Still need a sink drain plug or you will pull air from sink rather than sea water..Mine keeps popping from water hammer so I have to hold it in...
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,725
- - LIttle Rock
Get a tighter fitting plug! :)
As for pulling air through the sink, unless the tee was installed a little high in the drain, that prob'ly only happens when you're on a tack or in conditions that put the tee connection at or above the waterline. But...easily solved with a sink plug.
--Peggie
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,399
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Ya thanks! Have bought several and the plug material is hard rubber and not very tall. Sometime when it reaches the priority list or my remembrance, I’m going to try one of those black rubber plugs. Might have to shorten it depending on sizes. With the T fittting, the thru hull is not far below the WL. Add the lengths of thru hull tail, adaptor for hose, hose, T fitting, we’re pretty much above the WL with the T..Maybe an “L” fitting off the thru hull..
 
Feb 11, 2017
34
Thanks Peggy - I knew there had to be an easier way and yes this in itself justifies buying your book :)
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,725
- - LIttle Rock
Mark, I paid about $5 at Walmart for a set of 3 rubber plugs, only one of which is the size I needed for the sink in my garage. Not hard rubber...and not black either. Been keeping water in that sink when I need to for several years.

--Peggie