Troubleshooting Honda BF15

[AWalker]

I have a Honda BF15 that I ran last about 2 years ago. I tried to start it yesterday but there is no spark. The green oil light is illuminating while cranking (both electric start or pull) but no spark. I checked the kill switch and the oil pressure switch and both are functioning fine. I also checked the coil primary resistance which should be .3-.8 and mine is .5
I have no idea how to check the crank trigger or CDI module though.
Any help is appreciated.

 

[KD3PC]

I would clean the connectors to the small CDI unit ...they are horribly reliable in marine and motorcycle environments. IF you can get a Honda manual, they provide resistance values there.

Without test gear....

Else it becomes a parts swap and hope you only have one bad part.

 

[AWalker]

I was able to finally find a service manual, but it is raining now. I'll check my components in the morning.

 

[kloudie1]

neutral safety switch?

 

[JCall]

Replace the spark plugs? When the green light is flashing the ignition system is usually working. +1 on the cleaning of connectors for corrosion. Mice like to eat the Honda wires.

 

[agprice22]

Check the gear position. Make sure it is in neutral, and make sure the kill switch clip is all the way in place.

 

[AWalker]

I have ohmed out all the switches, and have power all the way to the CDI. I was running the ohm test on the CDI last night and would get readings, then not. Switched meters and got totally different values. Both meters may be suspect, so I am not sure what to believe. I was probing terminals last night and it fired up and ran like a top for about 3 seconds, then quit. Couldn't duplicate it though.

 

[JCall]

Clean the ground connection, check the pulser coil, then it could be the CDI box. Again, replace the spark plugs. Easiest and least expensive parts to replace!

 

[agprice22]

Are you sure it is getting fuel? Is the hose tightly connected? Is the carb clogged?

 

[Bill Roosa]

how do you know there is no spark? Take a screwdriver with plastic handle and insert it into the ignition cable boot. Holding the plastic handle crank the engine and hold a section of the metal screwdriver close some metal near the spark plug hole. Should be "fat" blue spark with cracking sound. By near I mean within 1/4 inch

 

[AWalker]

Definitely getting clean fresh fuel. I have done resistance checks at the coil on the primary and secondary side and they seem fine. I have pulled the plugs and grounded them and no spark at all.

I played with the CDI box a bit more and it started up and ran again for a few seconds, then nothing. I removed it, warmed it up, cleaned all the terminal ends, afterward it ran intermittently several times and now nothing. When it runs it runs great and when it quits there is nothing, no popping or trying, just nothing.

I have read several anecdotes online of people having the same issue and a new CDI cured it. That, coupled with the inconsistent tests on the CDI have led me to order a new one. They must use really good magic smoke in them because they cost about $125. Other brand motors are about $50-70.

 

[walt]

neutral safety switch?

I dont know if this is possibly related but I had a 1990 Honda BF8 that had something faulty with the neutral safety switch. Ran perfect or not at all. I finally disabled that circuit and problem went away. The outboard would then start in gear.. but so does my 2.5 hp

 

[Brian D]

I had the same problem. Search for my thread on Me and Outboards. Issue was carburetor. However, before that I could get "no spark", or so I thought. I took some carburetor cleaner and sprayed it in the carb intake. Pulled the rip cord and she sputtered and stuttered. That told me right away it was indeed getting spark.

So even though you have fresh fuel you still may want to spray a little carb cleaner in the intake and give the rip cord a pull. She might sputter and stutter.

A word of caution. Don't keep pulling and pulling and pulling. You will flood the thing and it will never start. So I would disconnect fuel line, drain the bowl, and take out the spark plug and blow whatever fuel you have in there out.

Oh... and one more thing, your timing could be off.

 

[All U Get]

In my case I forgot the little plastic key to the kill switch. Hope you at least had that right.

All U Get

 

[agprice22]

Yeah... fuel... she started for 3 seconds and conked out...
Air Fire Fuel
You can assume the air.
Check fire and fuel. Spark is easy. Pull the cap, pull the hood back and hold it close to the plug, hit the starter, and watch the spark.

Fuel? Open the throttle. Hit the starter. Stop. Pull the plugs. Are they wet? Yes... clean them and check again. Still wet? Then there is fuel. Dry... no fuel.

 

[agprice22]

Did you have it stored with non-ethanol fuel?

 

[AWalker]

It was stored dry. The problem is definitely not fuel. When it starts up it runs like a top, then the spark stops and it dies. I was finally able to get some consistent ohm tests on the trigger. The inconsistent tests on the CDI have led me to order a new one. Should know inside of a week if that was the problem. I must say that while CDI ignitions are pretty robust, I dislike the fact that the troubleshooting is sketchy, and the procedure usually ends stating "try replacing module with a known working module"

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

So often an engine run on ethanol gas even with the additives not in use for a long time will gum out the fine jets and ports within the carb. Remember ethanol is corn syrup crap. Even when an engine is stored, many fail to run the engine dry and then drain the remaining fuel from the carb by taking off the screw nut on the bottom of the carb. I read that it starts and runs momentarily and then dies. Unless the engine is actually turning, getting a spark is going to be difficult without turning it over but if you do that of course remove the spark plugs and check that. You will need help I would assume. IF there is spark then, it is the carb gummed up. Take it apart and use 2 plus 2 carb cleaner but do not touch the settings. It may be that but that is how I went about checking small engines quickly to see if it is a gummed up carb (carburetor) as a dealer long time ago. Suggest buying ethanol free gas even though it is more expensive.

 

[AWalker]

When checking for spark I am using the electric start, so it should be spinning plenty fast enough to make a spark.

 

[AWalker]

It was the black box. Up and running again.