Thanks for all the info. I changed the fluid. It was dark but did not smell burnt. Does not slip in reverse. I will disconnect the cable this weekend to make sure it is not out of adjustment. Plan on pulling and rebuilding if not.
transmission information
- Thread starter brad minda
- Start date
Don't know the exact diameter, but take the stick into the hardware store to fit it. I like to use nylon washers on things that don't get too hot for them as they're reusable. Ace Hardware has them.
Not sure it's a good idea to use nylon. I have a huge collection of aluminum and copper crush washers - cars, motorcycles, etc. I'm thinking the Hirth takes the same as my Honda V6 oil drain plug: same nut size, and seems to be the same washer size.
Jim, thanks for reply. I kinda guessed that but hoped for a better scenario. This boat sat from 01 till I got her last Sept. I got the motor to run with a lot of work and then had trouble getting the shifter cable to operate. Finally got the shaft to spin but no reaction from boat. (have not pulled her out of the water yet). Dove under and found only hub with broken off prop blades on shaft. I put a prop on and now she slips. Engine hours says 30. Let her run and it went up so it does work. My real guess is the clutch plates are glazed so pull and rebuild.
With the blades broke off the prop who knows what has happened.
Today I removed the cable from the shifter and it still slipped. Now in the process of removing tranny. Sucha great design. The bolts that hold the tranny on are inside the bell housing and the bell housing is also on the mounts. Such fun!
Today I removed the cable from the shifter and it still slipped. Now in the process of removing tranny. Sucha great design. The bolts that hold the tranny on are inside the bell housing and the bell housing is also on the mounts. Such fun!
Yikes! Do you have any idea how much force would be required to break the blades off a bronze prop? No wonder the gear is slipping (these are traditionally called a "gear," not transmission). I would remove and inspect, as a minimum, and expect to replace the clutch plates, as a minimum. I also recommend replacing the high strength bolts that hold the coupling disk to the crank shaft.
Hey Ted...yeah it is kinda pain to get that bugger out. SOP is to replace the drive plate and possibly the rear motor mounts while you're there. This is also a good time to check out the starter motor and the heat exchanger as well. Then there's the hoses, clamps, exhaust elbow, etc... (Guess it all depends on how far you want to go huh???)
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I learn more every time I step on the boat! I thank all who read and reply. B.O.A.T.! Am on boat now(AM) and have necessary equipment to pull her out. Looks like I have a long way to go.
Wow! Pulled the heat exchanger cause it was right above gear box. Will have to replace motor mounts. The nuts would not even come off the front ones. Natural to replace all hoses clamps ect. also a good time to clean and paint. Its out. Yeah! Now for the rebuild. Have to order parts and start cleaning.