Trailer Toungue Extension

[Cincy020]

So I bought a new (to me) trailer that came without a tongue extension and I am looking to add one for a relatively low price. Based on the current configuration of my trailer, I would be unable to add an extension that can slide in/out of my existing tongue, which is what my old trailer had. So far, I found a few options for fabricating a new one, with this being my front runner:

With this option, I can do it pretty cheap, (About $120) and with no special tools (i.e. welding). Does anyone have experience using a type of extension like this? What are your impressions with it? It seems like it would be a little less sturdy since the load is on the ball, versus attached firmly to the existing trailer tongue.

This is the second option I was looking at:

Seems like this would be more secure, but would require some welding (I have someone that I can get to do it for free!). Costs a little bit more, but could be worth it.

Would appreciate any thoughts on this from your experiences. Also, what would be a good wall thickness for the extension? I was thinking 3/16 or 1/8 but didn't know if 1/8 would be substantial enough. Would only be using this to pull out of the water a few times per year.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[flynhi4u]

Ryan,
I would prefer the second option with the most distance between the front and rear attach point for the most strength. Option one would work with a light boat trailer combination but again, the most distance you can get between the two points of attachment will give you the most strength.
I would go with the thickest wall you can get for the greatest strength. I am going to assume that your C 22 uses a single axle trailer which will have a pretty low turning load when compared to a tandem axle trailer. You should be fine with either one.
I converted our Magic tilt trailer to a sliding tongue and used something similar to your option number two. Due to a cross member on the trailer I could not get as much extension as I had hoped, about 6 feet, but it really made a difference. 8 feet would have been better.

Sam

 

[kito]

I see nothing wrong with option #1 and actually prefer it over #2 especially for a C22. Option #2 doesn't need to be 20 foot long imo. Either one needs to be installed/removed and given a place to store which may be a pita. Option #1 will be a shorter extension since it is using a ball and not have to be pinned in 2 places like #2. Plus #1 can be installed/removed in probably 10 seconds. #2 will have to slide in and get the 2 pins lined up. If I understand #1 correctly, the vertical plates remain on the trailer and the extension tube slides between the 2 bolts and plates to keep it centered....pretty clever actually.

 

[flynhi4u]

Option one would probably work fine. My only concern is if you drive down the ramp and make your turn around to get lined up like we do at home lake there will be a lot of side load placed on the sides of the two plates that are bolted onto the frame.
Having the extension slide into two box style holders would probably be structurally stronger than the plates bolted to the frame.

Sam

 

[Meriachee]

Here's another option. The bar is attached firmly with a hitch pin, and has a hinge so the trailer can rotate across the apex of the ramp. The wheel you see in the picture drops down to be the dolly wheel.

 

[Cincy020]

Thanks for your thoughts guys. Luckily at my ramp, it is pretty much a straight shot in and out of the ramp, with not much turning. Good thought on the two plates having the large side load applied against them keeping it straight. One improvement over this could be to secure the plates to the tongue extension (bolt onto the end) so it is firmly attached there then bolt again over the original tongue. Probably get stronger (thicker) plates that can help hold that side load.

Really just need to add 6'-8'..I agree that 20' would be way to much!

 

[CaptDon01]

You can see in the photo the trailer extension on one of the several C-22's I've owned over the years. The extension slides into two sections of larger square tubing welded to the trailer frame. Very simple.....

By the way, your rig going down the road will be in excess of 3,000 Lbs. Don't believe the published weights from the catalogs. So trailer brakes might be required in your state.

Don

 

[kito]

You can just weld a short square tube to the underside of the trailer's tongue for the extension to slide into instead of just bolting on those small plates. The extension tube would still use the trailer ball so pinning would be extra security. It's kind of using both designs and could be made fairly cheap.

 

[jepomer]

For the past six years I use a simple 2" x 3" x 10 ft tongue with a pair of bolt-on brackets similar to the first photo. I did not use a ball. The extended length is just enough for my trailer and Capri 22 with a wing keel.

 

[Flamingo1]

I have a fixed keel - not a wing - so I need even more water to launch. To float my boat, it would take a tongue extender of approximately 30 feet in length. That isn't really an option and I understand torque on a tongue extension can be a real issue. So, I have used a 30' tow strap. That process would work for your wing-keel as well and be less cost, less maintenance and about the same hassle. You could get by with a much shorter tow strap than the 30' that I use which would make the process a bit easier.

Just offering an alternative.

 

[kito]

Just be sure to check the lake levels first. I have backed a 20 foot ski boat without an extension off the slab.

 

[Gene Neill]

Ryan

I like that a lot. Make me one too, will ya??

 

[Cincy020]

Lots of good insight. I like the whole weld the square tube right to the frame, but that involves towing my trailer all the way to my welder guy which is further than I want to go. Trying to find out how much it is to do option #2.

Also, only a SK in a lake that I have seen people float 5 ft with about a 10 foot extension. I'm really just trying to keep my wheels dry.

 

[Richie50]

So, I have used a 30' tow strap. That process would work for your wing-keel as well and be less cost, less maintenance and about the same hassle. You could get by with a much shorter tow strap than the 30' that I use which would make the process a bit easier.

I also use the strap method with great success and no hassle.

 

[CaptDon01]

Cincy020, Just curious, is your boat a swing keel, wing keel, or fixed keel version. For what it worth, if your boat is a swing keel, I've never seen a swing keel boat launched requiring a tongue extension, and I've been to a number of regattas and C-22 events across the country. That's the beauty of a swing keeled C-22. Just wondering.....

Don

 

[Cincy020]

Cincy020, Just curious, is your boat a swing keel, wing keel, or fixed keel version. For what it worth, if your boat is a swing keel, I've never seen a swing keel boat launched requiring a tongue extension, and I've been to a number of regattas and C-22 events across the country. That's the beauty of a swing keeled C-22. Just wondering.....

Don

It's a swing, but the bunks on the new trailer are about 6 inches higher than my old one. On the ramp, without the extension, the wheels get wet and will slip a bit. I figured with the boat sitting higher, in going to need to get in a little more, hence the extension. Piece of mind is a big part of it.

 

[JRacer]

I used the tow strap method for my J24 for 30 years with no problems. J24 drew 4 feet with it's fixed keel so was way up in the air on the trailer.

 

[CaptDon01]

It's a swing, but the bunks on the new trailer are about 6 inches higher than my old one. On the ramp, without the extension, the wheels get wet and will slip a bit. I figured with the boat sitting higher, in going to need to get in a little more, hence the extension. Piece of mind is a big part of it.

Might it be easier to just adjust the height of the bunks? Having not seeing an overall photo of the trailer, just throwing a thought out there. As a trailer-sailor, anything that can be done to make rigging, launching and retrieving easier is on the top of my list.

Don

 

[flynhi4u]

I agree with Don. lowering the bunks and even putting smaller diameter tires and wheels on the trailer could be an option. I know when we switch from 12" to 13" tires and wheels it made a difference. Not enough to cause us any issues since we had the extension but it made me change how far back I had to back to load and unload. But the boat sure rides a lot better on the 13's due to the fact that not only are they a bit wider but they carry their loaded weight at 55 psi instead of 90 psi for the 12" tires and wheels we had.

Sam

 

[dzl]

Why not do option 1 but on the side of the tongue instead of the top? That way you wouldn't need to remove the extension, simply swing it back and attach to the trailer in the back. I've seen them done this way but just with big hinges instead of a ball. In my opinion it's the best/easiest option after a sliding tongue.

I also have a swing keel and I've had to use the extension at every ramp so far... My boat isn't that high on the trailer either.. I maybe could launch without it but I'd have to back my pickup into the water quite a ways to float the boat. The plan is to launch the boat, not my towing vehicle. I have a sliding tongue and it is very easy to use so I just always use it.

On the other hand, if you have room to do option 2, why not just run another tube and a sliding extension, instead of just two holders and a removable tongue? Of course fabrication is not an issue for me so that may be easier for me to suggest than for you to do.