Trailer Jacking Points
- Thread starter mgiraz
- Start date
I rebuilt my entire 94" H26 trailer on jack stands with the boat still on it. The only parts I wasn't able to replace was the bunks.
There was never any threat what-so-ever of damaging the frame. The steel c-channels are plenty strong.
Full post here:
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=15&aid=100080&mn=26
There was never any threat what-so-ever of damaging the frame. The steel c-channels are plenty strong.
Full post here:
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=15&aid=100080&mn=26
Thanks Kermit! Old almost like new again.
It would be no problem at all to put a couple jack stands behind the rear axle, or better yet, use four. Two behind and two in front of the axles. Get all four wheels off the ground at once. Or you could do one side at a time.
It would be no problem at all to put a couple jack stands behind the rear axle, or better yet, use four. Two behind and two in front of the axles. Get all four wheels off the ground at once. Or you could do one side at a time.
Sweet ! So you converted over to disk brakes.
If I ever want to use my trailer over the road, I'll need to add fenders and brakes. It's just a yard trailer right now.
As for the bolts, forget wrenching. I bought one of these for that exact purpose (6A, 4 1/2" for $29 at Tractor Supply). Don't forget a pack of cut-off wheels and safety glasses. We were whacking off 1/2" bolts on our dock hardware back in April. But work carefully to not damage the trailer, and replace one at a time. Cut through the nut about 1/2 way, then use a long breaker with a socket to twist it off, and pop the bolt out.
My bigger problem is dragging the rear cross member "v" when I transition from downhill to level. The weld is still ok, thankfully, but it would be unwise to keep grinding it into the pavement. So, my solution is to bend a piece of 3/16 steel to match and (square) U-bolt it in place below the cross member. Then, to keep the pavement pretty, I might cover the steel with wood as a sort of sacrificial member. Ugh, the things we go through...
My bigger problem is dragging the rear cross member "v" when I transition from downhill to level. The weld is still ok, thankfully, but it would be unwise to keep grinding it into the pavement. So, my solution is to bend a piece of 3/16 steel to match and (square) U-bolt it in place below the cross member. Then, to keep the pavement pretty, I might cover the steel with wood as a sort of sacrificial member. Ugh, the things we go through...
Rick Webb's advice is to be taken seriously. The original 23.5 single axle trailer should only be jacked up by placing the floor jack under the axle,close to the wheel when the boat is on the trailer.
I carry a few pieces of 2X4 and a 4X4 block to pull (drive) the trailer up onto as the axle is very close to the ground and a flat tire makes that space even smaller. I use a low profile aluminum floor jack. If the boat is OFF the trailer and you are removing the leaf spring/s or axle, I use four jack stands to support the frame.
I carry a few pieces of 2X4 and a 4X4 block to pull (drive) the trailer up onto as the axle is very close to the ground and a flat tire makes that space even smaller. I use a low profile aluminum floor jack. If the boat is OFF the trailer and you are removing the leaf spring/s or axle, I use four jack stands to support the frame.
GGordon Wood - I had the same problem when backing up my driveway. Solved it by installing a new axle and springs and making sure that the tires were inflated to 50 psi....no more scraping.
This bumper sticker will also help with scraping. Especially if you drive a low-rider.
