Through-hull fitment question
- Thread starter Gene Neill
- Start date
If you are determined to use epoxy under the backing plate then I would not disturb it until it is fully cured. You can use the thru-hull and its locknut to temporarily hold the assembly together. In that case I would use masking tape on the threads inside to prevent the threads from bonding to the epoxy. You can gently beat the thru-hull out after the epoxy cures. This a generally difficult job as you are typically alone and only on one side of the assembly. Look around the yard when working on your boat in the Spring while counting the women present. They are all running for political office or something while you and the other men are replacing boat plumbing parts alone, probably standing in a puddle.
Fortunately, the Vega is on a trailer in my driveway, so my wife is there to come assist ... while sighing deeply and grumbling, of course.
I've done this type of replacement, and found that a small excess in the hole is not a problem. Proof - boat has not sunk yet in a few years. As noted, you can fill your excess hole size at the same time you mount the G10 backing plate with thickened epoxy and hold it in place with the through-hull. Rather than mixing it up yourself, why not use West Six-10 which is thickened correctly and is easy to dispense for a small job. I coated all through-hull parts that I might want to remove later with mold release wax, but I'm told that ordinary Carnuba car wax is the same stuff. The through-hull fitting was removable by unscrewing and I've got a nice set of threads in epoxy which are sealed to the hull, in addition to the seacock mount on the inside. The Six-10 filled the irregularities on the inside of the hull and squirted out the side, and I just used a gloved finger to fair it out in the corner, like caulking a seam. It's a permanent part of the boat now, so I'd rather not know if one of you experts says it's going to fail next spring!
Six-10 is good stuff, a bit pricey but it is a no muss no fuss thickened epoxy. Jamestown Distributors has a comparable product, Thixio but I haven't used it.
The Six-10 has a long cure time, so there is plenty of time to correct mistakes. It comes with a mixing nozzle that is great for getting into tight spaces or laying a bead of epoxy. It can also be mixed by squeezing out the epoxy on to a piece of cardboard and mixing it with a stick.
If you use it, don't waste your time with a cheap caulking gun. The stuff is thick and wimpy guns are not up to the job.
The Six-10 has a long cure time, so there is plenty of time to correct mistakes. It comes with a mixing nozzle that is great for getting into tight spaces or laying a bead of epoxy. It can also be mixed by squeezing out the epoxy on to a piece of cardboard and mixing it with a stick.
If you use it, don't waste your time with a cheap caulking gun. The stuff is thick and wimpy guns are not up to the job.
Oh no.. certainly not that pretty lass behind you holding a bottle of bubbly. She couldn't possibly be a grumbler....
Sighing.... must only happen when experiencing happy moments.
Haha, yeah, she loves sailing, but wants nothing to do with the prerequisites. Can't have everything, I guess.
About the West Six 10 ... I'm just too cheap to pay someone else to mix my epoxy for me. I buy empty caulk tubes from US Composites to fill with my own stuff, if I need to reach tight areas.
I've been drilling holes in boats for through hulls for something like 40 years and if there is a lot of slop between the through hull and the actual hole, I suggest not trying to fix it with caulk. Someone mentioned 3M 4200. Do not use that. It is an adhesive caulk and should never be used on thru-hulls because it is not designed to every be separated again. The best caulk for under the water purposes would be a polysulfide caulk (Life Calk 1-part polysulfide is an example). If your hole is too big, I recommend doing it right. Fiberglass it up and redrill it so you have a tight fit.
The question is, what's "a lot of slop"? His is 1/16 diameter over the fitting. Is that a lot?
True but pastry icing is a lot easier to work with and clean up after than very thickened epoxy.
LOL ...
Work has been getting in the way of progress on this thing, sadly. Working tomorrow also. Sunday, we're launching the C22 for a five day cruise (giddyup!). I'll post pics when I actually re-commence working on this thing; hopefully I can jump on it next weekend when we get back. I need to power through this and get on to the next project!!
I really appreciate all the input, you guys are the best.
Work has been getting in the way of progress on this thing, sadly. Working tomorrow also. Sunday, we're launching the C22 for a five day cruise (giddyup!). I'll post pics when I actually re-commence working on this thing; hopefully I can jump on it next weekend when we get back. I need to power through this and get on to the next project!!
I really appreciate all the input, you guys are the best.
I would just fill the entire hole with epoxy slightly thickened with microfibers and then re-drill the hole. Thats plenty strong to fill such a small gap.
