Teak eyebrow for oday 35
- Thread starter rajhnsn
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Assuming it's the same style as on the 28, we called Rudy from D&R a few years ago but he said he doesn't stock them anymore, since they're too long to ship practically. We had to use the existing eyebrow as a template to build a new one from scratch, shaping it with a planer and router. We started with http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303341|2303342&id=2172052.
By the way, we still have about a 3' section if that's any help. It's very slightly larger in cross section than the existing but looks pretty identical unless you're really looking close.
Glad you brought the topic up. Ours has come loose at the end and is leaking. The plan is to remove it and refinish it off the boat. While it is off I can also power compound the doghouse sides.
How are they attached? It looks like maybe they are just screwed on. Any suggestions for re-installation?
How are they attached? It looks like maybe they are just screwed on. Any suggestions for re-installation?
make very sure they are bedded and sealed good or you will have water damage inside the fiberglass
Sounds about right if you plan on replacing all of it. I'd recommend cutting the ends on a mitre so the joints overlap if possible.
Ours were just screwed through the teak into the fiberglass. I used a mini hacksaw to cut the screws of the broken section between the wood and the hull.
10-4 but I think the horse is already out of the barn there. The inner plywood core had delaminated some but was otherwise solid when I replaced the large fixed ports two years ago. I filled the area with epoxy and will do the same at each attachment point. Plan to campher each screw hole seal with buytel.
that's a good thing ...you may be able to dry out the wet plywood and inject some CPES in there and solidify the plywood ..it can be a messy process but it will work if applied to dry loose wood ...for drying it out you may need to use a shop vac on each hole and vacuum for a while ....good luck
For what it is worth - I wouldn't buy teak from Defender. Buy from a local hardwood lumber dealer. You should be able to get much longer pieces and be able to pick and choose your way through the pile rather than taking what Defender ships. And you should be able to get a much longer piece eliminating joints (maybe you'll still have one, but not 3). The joints will be the first place of finish failure.
If you are gong to splice pieces do a scarf joint ....if the wood you are splicing is 1inch thick then taper both pieces 11inches on one side from the end the same then turn the tapers facing each other and glue and clamp them for a day minimum then machine them to your finish size and shape. I really like gorilla glue for this. The taper ratio is best at 11 to 1. Also watch your grain orientation so it is not so conspicuous
Thank you. I agree with not buying from Defender. They only seem to have 4 foot lengths. Local yard (Willard) said they have no teak in stock. They are looking around for it. I was planning on a scarf joint but did not realize it should be 11 to 1. As far as installation, I was planning to take out the old screws, fill the holes with epoxy and install with stainless wood screws into the fiberglass, then cover the screw heads.
the woodworking educators say 8 to 1 and that will work but if you are doing smaller pieces like an eyebrow 11 is a lot better and reduces the chance of licking your calf over and since you usually to over sized lumber and work it down to finished size it sometimes comes out to 9 or 8 to 1 any way
I removed my eyebrows and filled the screw holes with thickened epoxy. I used a dark blue tape the thickness of the old eyebrow to cover the screw holes. Having to refinish that tiny piece of teak all the time was a real PITA. Mine finally broke at the screw holes and was damaged beyond repair. If I was replacing it I would use fake wood with a teak finish so I wouldn't have to ever refinish it again. I think Danny used fake teak to do the caps on his toe rails and it looked great. Search on his thread to see the pictures. To remove it just take a pick or knife point and pry out the plugs over the screws. Then unscrew them.
I found some teak for the eye brow at a local lumber yard but it would have cost over $75.00 and need two splices on each side. Talking with the guy at the lumber yard, he suggested that I consider Epi wood for the eye brow. I bought four 1" X 1" X 10' for $16.00. It will turn out a little darker and need one splice on each side but it will probably hold up better than teak.
Be careful with the fake wood. Some brands maybe better than other. When I bought my Cat27 a few years ago it had a broken teak eyebrow on one side and the PO had tried fake wood in the other at some point. The fake side was broken in several places and broke with as much resistance as a toothpick. I took off both sides and replaced.
Teak is expensive and there is no law that says only teak can be used on a boat. I had some Oak around so I cut two full pieces over 8 ft long, filled the grain, stained and used five coats of Cetol on them before installing. Three seasons later still look great and no maintenance issues. Oak isn't the best around water but the only water is rain and some spray from sailing. Being all one piece makes it much stronger and oak is pretty tough stuff. Epi is great stuff and very heavy. If you splice you need a scarf joint as suggested. It is also an oily wood, like teak, and will need to be cleaned with acetone before glue and finish.
Teak is expensive and there is no law that says only teak can be used on a boat. I had some Oak around so I cut two full pieces over 8 ft long, filled the grain, stained and used five coats of Cetol on them before installing. Three seasons later still look great and no maintenance issues. Oak isn't the best around water but the only water is rain and some spray from sailing. Being all one piece makes it much stronger and oak is pretty tough stuff. Epi is great stuff and very heavy. If you splice you need a scarf joint as suggested. It is also an oily wood, like teak, and will need to be cleaned with acetone before glue and finish.
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