Switch Panel Recommendations?

Stu Jackson · Aug 18, 2018

jviss said:
This feeds a fuse sub-panel

Why not fuse separately and make a switched sub-panel?

SG · Aug 18, 2018

If you have a Bass panel, how about a supplemental panel. What else do you have at the Nav station on yours?

MitchM · Aug 18, 2018

why not contact Blue Sea and ask for recommmendations ?

SG · Aug 18, 2018

Is it a Blue Sea panel on the Tartan 3800?

rgranger · Aug 18, 2018

Buy this for the cover plate of your bass panel and you will have a bass bass panel

or would that be a bass panel bass

LeslieTroyer · Aug 18, 2018

I have a BlueSea panel it was put in by the P.O. wish it had a few more DC breakers

Les

TomY · Aug 19, 2018

jviss said:
Currently ALL of my 'electronics' are on one 40A breaker. This feeds a fuse sub-panel which powers AIS, MFD, AP, NMEA network, WiFi network, wind/speed/depth instruments, and maybe a couple of more things. So, one switch, all or nothing.

I'd like to have more options, mostly for power conservation. I'd like the AIS always on when I'm on board, maybe even when I'm not aboard. I'd like the W/S/D on when I'm awake. I'd like the WiFi to come up with the MFD. I'd like the AP to be separately switched.

I was thinking of a strip of toggle switches. I'd like them below, near the CB panel and nav station. I'd like them to look nice, to be proper and even nautical looking.

Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks,

jv

Build your own sub-switch panel? When I built mine last year, I used the Blue Seas ATC fuse blocks (2). That removes most of the wiring from the switch panel allowing a compact switch panel if space is limited.

BS fuse blocks make it easy to run a fused circuit to a switch or wire direct for fused '24 hour' circuits that are not switched.

The switch panel can be most anything and size.

TomY · Aug 19, 2018

jviss said:
That's nice, @TomY . For mine, I need a compact, horizontal strip of switches. The fuse block is already in place.

Where did you get the switches?

I used Del City as they had a wide variety of marine rated switches in various sizes and configurations. A few of my switches are STDP. Most of the rest I bought locally.

But it's easy to get switches not rated for 12VDC (from non-marine suppliers) if you're not careful. Blue Seas tech was helpful in questions I had about the LED indicator lights and wiring.

Take your time designing the actual switch panel planning space for wiring, on paper first. It was fun! I've been enjoying the results this season.

TomY · Aug 19, 2018

jviss said:
Surely switches rated for 110/220VAC would be fine for 12VDC, don't you think? I always thought switch voltage ratings were a measure of their dielectric withstanding voltage. Current ratings should be considered, too, but AC Amps RMS and DC Amps are equivalent.

I believe the switch ratings have more to do with the internal contacts as they react in use with the AC vs DC arcing. At any rate, many AC rated toggle switches were rated at a lower amperage (15 vs min. 20Amp) than I needed. I kept my minimum A ratings for all components.

In actual use, nearly all my circuits are fused well below, but each switch circuit can be fused, and safely carry, up to 20Amp.

Bob J. · Aug 19, 2018

LeslieTroyer said:
I have a BlueSea panel it was put in by the P.O. wish it had a few more DC breakers

An example of what I did to get around having additional breakers. I have one 15 amp circuit for all the nav lights. From the breaker I went to two dpdt toggle switches. Switch 1, up are the running lights, down is the anchor light. Switch 2, up is the steaming light, down is the foredeck light.

Keeps things pretty simple & you don't need additional breakers for every device.

Sumner · Aug 19, 2018

I also like the Blue Seas Fuse blocks and use them on both boats. Have individual main fuses to the left for the loads, solar and charger. Also there are fuses at the battery posts.

Switch panels were also made as couldn't really find any that I liked. More here...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-electrical/electrical-index.html

Sumner
===========================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-main/endeavour-index.html
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas

Scott T-Bird · Aug 19, 2018

Misfits said:
An example of what I did to get around having additional breakers. I have one 15 amp circuit for all the nav lights. From the breaker I went to two dpdt toggle switches. Switch 1, up are the running lights, down is the anchor light. Switch 2, up is the steaming light, down is the foredeck light.

Keeps things pretty simple & you don't need additional breakers for every device.

That is a good idea, wish I had thought of it! jviss, I would study the Blue Seas website for ideas. I recently changed from fused switches to breaker switches. I bought the panels from Blue Seas and built out a cabinet box with teak plywood for the face and other pre-finished materials for the sides. It was a simple project and I'm pleased with the look.

I was just looking at the options BS shows for switches, and I think you could find numerous products to customize your chart station to get the switching function you desire. I liked the flat rocker switches and find that they look and function great! They have plenty of labeling options as well, even custom labeling if you want.

Sumner · Aug 20, 2018

jviss said:
Very nice, Sumner, thanks. How did you make those gray panels? How was the lettering done?

The panels are aluminum covered with .090 white wall board that comes smooth on one side with a pebble finish on the other. I used the wall board to have a greater contrast with the labeling and figured the labels would stick to it better than the aluminum.

The labeling was done with a P-Touch PT-2730. It is really nice as you control it with the computer if you want and has a lot of options. I see they are quite expensive now. I don't remember us paying anywhere near what I see them online. I thought we paid about $75 some years back. Most of the info on how they were made is in the link I provided.

I also use DPDT toggle switches to control different lights in a couple situations. Mainly to control the running and anchor lights depending on if we are sailing at night or motoring at night. Also DPDT switches were used on the 3 bilge pumps for the manual on/auto on/ and off functions,

Sumner.
================================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas