"Survey Says"

[Bob S]

Last fall I posted that we were moving up, admiral's orders. Thanks to all the great advise followed here I sold my Catalina 30 pretty fast. We've offered and accepted a Beneteau 393 that has been lightly used in Maine. It's pretty much a factory boat but things have changed since she was build in 2003. The survey came up with 12 recommendations, all minor. Some the seller will address and some I’ll take care of. Examples below:

Recommend replacing wing nut on start battery to hex.
Easy fix!

Recommend reviewing and properly labeling the battery switches and T-class fuses.
Not a problem, will be rewiring per RC's 1/both/2/off post and re-labeling anyways.

Exhaust hose runs loose thru lazerette (factory): Recommend securing hose per ABYC P-1 and add chafe protection where needed.
Not quite sure what he meant but I will add a few more attachment points and add chafe protection.

The main AC breaker is more than 10' from the shore power inlet. Recommend installing a main breaker in lazerette at inlet ABYC E-11.
I will handle this, I’ve already bought a Sterling 40a battery charger from Compass Marine as part of my rewiring project. Does this mean I need to remove the one on the AC panel or just add another breaker? Not sure this was a requirement in 2003 when the boat was manufactured.

The engine blower comes on when the key is turned on (factory). Recommend having the blower operate from a separate switch and insure it's properly overcurrent protected.
I guess I can isolate and fuse it.

Recommend annual inspection and tagging of all fire extinguishers per ABYC A-4
Does anyone do this? My current boat has fire extinguisher that are replaced every couple of years and I remove them over the winter and inspect them in the spring but I don’t tag them. Does tagging mean inspection by a qualified person?

All in all it turned out OK “the vessel is in very good condition” I would assume anyone buying a used boat would be required to update to the latest ABYC standards…

 

[Stu Jackson]

Congratulations, Bob. Too bad you didn't get a C34, ut you'll sure enjoy your new boat. Yes,just add a breaker.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

My survey had same stmt on extinguishers. I'm not paying someone good $$ to look at a gage and hit the cylinder with a rubber mallet

For the breaker I would recommend a ELCI breaker panel within 10' of your power plug ( recommend smart plug). If you plan on generator or other 110 power input the ELCI can be combined with a input selector switch. At same time look at galvanic isolator if not already fitted to your ground circuit.

Les

 

[Kings Gambit]

The engine blower comes on when the key is turned on (factory). Recommend having the blower operate from a separate switch and insure it's properly overcurrent protected.
I guess I can isolate and fuse it.

Interesting, but strange. On my old P-30 the blower had a separate switch. Idea was to clear the engine compartment of explosive fumes before firing off the engine. So, switch blower on for 30 sec, then ignition. Of course, w/new diesels maybe this should not be an issue; but, your surveyor appears to be old school. I suppose you could just turn the switch w/o starting and let the blower go for a while first, but then you'd have to hear the ignition alarm for that time. I can also say that my Bavaria is not even equipped with a blower.

 

[Gunni]

Your surveyor reads like a gas mobo guy. Look around your stern lazarette and I believe you will find a circuit breaker for your power supply, leave the blower switch set up the way it is, simple and effective, your extinguishers should all have service lives stamped on them, take them out yearly and shake them, add a halotron extinguisher for your engine bay protection.

The recommendations regarding labeling battery switches are useful, not sure why they don't come that way. But I would not rewire because they work just fine OEM. All the rest of that stuff - good. Nice boat. And yes, add a galvanic isolator.

 

[Jackdaw]

Mount one of these BSS AC breakers in a box in the lazarette next to your shore power plug.

This WAS/IS code, the run might be actually just under 10 feet. But in any case a good idea.

 

[Calif. Ted]

Coast Guard does not require "tags" which are supposed to certify that a state licensed fire extinguisher tech has serviced the device. This should include removing the head, checking powder, weighing etc. There is the unscrupulous practice known as "rag and tag" but that is usually only seen when a large number are involved. In general, extinguishers with plastic heads are either not serviceable or not worth the cost, extinguishers with metal heads are usually serviceable. Coast Guard just looks at the gauge. There's a manufacture date somewhere, get a good sized new one and keep the others for back-up. Unless the PO was unusual they are probably cheap ones, but if you get lucky you might have one worth getting serviced.

 

[Bob S]

And yes, add a galvanic isolator.

I bought a ProMariner FS30 Amp Isolator for my C30 and was going to install it this spring. I just bought a 40A charger. I'm betting I can't use the 30A galvanic Isolator?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Unless you already have a ELCI - I would not recommend the one Jackdaw shows. These are now part of the standards -- use the enclosed one if installing in lazaret or other exposed location (Blues 3116 & 1502)

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The engine blower comes on when the key is turned on (factory). Recommend having the blower operate from a separate switch and insure it's properly overcurrent protected.
I guess I can isolate and fuse it.

Can't speak for the B393 but I know that later model Hunters have the same wiring arrangement for a blower. It's intended for engine compartment cooling and not removing explosive fumes which diesel engine are a little short on.

Leave it as is.

 

[Gunni]

Bob, you will need a galvanic isolator on each of your shore power connects. Being a Maine boat you may only have one (House), but most US boats have a second for A/C power.

I am virtually certain that the ELCI that Leslie references is not on your boat. Probably the reason why swimming in a marina is not a good idea.

 

[Bob S]

Bob, you will need a galvanic isolator on each of your shore power connects. Being a Maine boat you may only have one (House), but most US boats have a second for A/C power.

I'm not sure how the boat is set up yet. She does have 3 D's in the port lazarette and a group 27 in front of her engine. There are three red switches and one black. I was going to rewire the three D's as one house and the start as the reserve. Again, I'm not sure how she is wired or how the whole thing works it's all French to me . I'll spend this season learning her. Sounds like the third D is for the inverter, is that what your saying?

 

[Calif. Ted]

That's the standard Bene/Jeaneau kind of battery switches, red ones break the positive connection for each bank, and the black breaks the negative for all banks. I thought they were labeled, perhaps very small on the handles themselves, having 3 red would indicate 3 banks. Just started trying to figure out a friends Jeanneau, so far we've learned that if you leave motor battery off you can't start off the house bank, this seems to eliminate the redundancy feature of 2 banks, so we're doing some head scratching. I guess we'll have to resort to checking the wiring plan this weekend so we can at least figure out what it was "as built" prior to any PO improvements.

 

[Jackdaw]

Unless you already have a ELCI - I would not recommend the one Jackdaw shows. These are now part of the standards -- use the enclosed one if installing in lazaret or other exposed location (Blues 3116 & 1502)

View attachment 136052 View attachment 136053

Those work too of course. But why would you ever mount the shore power breaker in an exposed location??

 

[JamesG161]

Mount one of these BSS AC breakers in a box in the lazarette next to your shore power plug.

OEM mounted like this saved our Main 120VAC Panel from an apparent nearby lightning strike "back surge" (many boats on shore power affected). The breaker would NOT reset.
Perhaps they were installed on the 10' rule, but easy to change.

Mine have a weather protectors over the switches, in the lazarette.
Jim...

 

[jlp0217]

Two different issues are being discussed re. breakers, weather protected (your choice depending on location), and ELCI vs regular breaker. You should have ELCI somewhere, already installed at the electrical panel or the new breaker near the inlet. ELCI breakers have a test button, and cut off if load vs neutral differs by 30ma. or more.

 

[sailndays]

Most Fire Extinguisher service companies will Service and update your tags. Sure there is a small service fee, but ya don't want to try putting out a fire with a dead or compromised extinguisher. It a small investment in preventing a lot of wet boat ash. Hmmm, that reminds me, I need to update the extinguisher in my mountain cabin. Let's see I think that is a 2A-10BC

 

[Mac Smith]

I too have a Beneteau and the surveyor saw some "strange things" like the Neutral switch, and separate red switches for battery banks 1 & 2, (NOT a Guest 1,2,ALL, OFF switch) as well as French instructions before English. I suggest you contact Beneteau USA with this list to see what they have to say about the list created by the surveyor.
Should the manufacturer (engineers) have a design in place that exceeds the surveyor's or other requirements, then the manufacturers ideals should be followed, if they are indeed original.
The french electrical system is different, but still has a negative ground.
My blower comes on with a separate switch, which turns on all circuits and allows for cranking and running. This simple device drops the heat in the engine compartment quickly, and will also report smoke or steam at the stern while running, and best yet, doesn't require me to "remember" to turn it on.
I had a surveyor on my last boat, a Hunter 31, and he said to me that I had leaks. I calmly asked him if he'd ever seen a boat without leaks. His response was "A navy boat" and then I learned I was one of his first 15 surveys he had completed. He was of course working under a fully licensed surveyor, but since then, I feel I need to know the background of my surveyor.
Beneteau USA is on my speed dial for parts too. They are very helpful. Located in SC, some parts like ports will still come from France. Enjoy your new boat, but ask the factory about modifications suggested first.