Stripping, How deep to go

[Flip Rutledge]

I am repainting my 1986 Hunter 31. The first few coats came off without too much trouble using a chemical stripper. I am now getting a thick blue layer that only softens a bit and is very difficult to scrape off.
I am wondering if I have gotten into the epoxy barrier coat. I don't have the budget this year to get the yard to deal with it, so I am looking for any advice. They are going to move it where I have power and water to pressure wash it to see if more comes off. I am just not sure how deep to go, and do I need to sand this entire layer off.

 

[Roadking Larry]

What type of stripper are you using?
My boat is on the hard and I have several areas that the pressure wash did not take off the old anti-fouling. I got some of the citrus based stripper to try and it looks like it will do a pretty good job but it might take more than one application on a few places. I also have small places where I have a "thick blue layer that only softens a bit and is very difficult to scrape off." but I know it is not barrier coat, my barrier coat is white.

 

[dlochner]

Barrier coat is usually white or gray, often alternating, gray first coat, white second coat and so on.

If chemical strippers don't work, then the only alternative is mechanical, soda blasting or "Glorious sanding." An aggressive grit ~36 will likely be necessary. Finer grits may just burnish the paint.


(Courtesy of SailLife)

 

[Flip Rutledge]

I tried Aqua Strip two coats, then one coat of Total Boat. It is difficult to put on as thick as they recommend. I am also an hour and a half from the boat so a 4 hour wait is impossible. It is either 18 hours or just 2.
I am going to use one more coat of Total boat when the boat is moved Tuesday.
I wish I was talking about small spaces, but I have only small spaces where I have gotten through the blue goo.

 

[shemandr]

Make it smooth, paint it and go sailing.

 

[Flip Rutledge]

Barrier coat is usually white or gray, often alternating, gray first coat, white second coat and so on.

If chemical strippers don't work, then the only alternative is mechanical, soda blasting or "Glorious sanding." An aggressive grit ~36 will likely be necessary. Finer grits may just burnish the paint.

View attachment 165209
(Courtesy of SailLife)

I had not thought of soda blasting. I will take my blaster up there and give it a try.
Thanks

 

[dlochner]

I had not thought of soda blasting. I will take my blaster up there and give it a try.
Thanks

Check with your yard, they may be fussy about blasting and containing dust and blast media.

 

[Flip Rutledge]

Check with your yard, they may be fussy about blasting and containing dust and blast media.

Soda dissolves in water so it should be no more messy than sanding

 

[dlochner]

Soda dissolves in water so it should be no more messy than sanding

It is the paint that will come off they will be concerned with and dust landing on other boats.

 

[LakeOntario270]

I feel your pain. A new product that will make your life so much better is called SandNet by Diablo. It's for a 5" sander and it doesn't clog up like sand paper. It will make quick work f the old bottom paint.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...plication-Pad-10-Pack-DND050060H10I/304669183

 

[jssailem]

Flip. From what I have read, traditionally strippers only remove outer layers. They stop at the skin. That is what gets the big tips. Any further and well it gets way too messy.

I believe that is a good plan for a boat as well. You start digging into the hull skin and you will have a much bigger job.

Soda blasting will cause the paint dust to rise. One reason most yards do not see this as a DIY project.

The boats gel coat serves as a barrier layer protecting the hull from UV damage and water intrusion. You’ll need to add back a barrier coating if you go too deep.

 

[walnetto]

I went the easy route and had a painting company come in and blast the boat because I was switching from an ablative to VC17. I'm 70 now and I don't want to sand and scrape anymore. Sure, it cost me $1,100.00, but for time and health reasons, breathing dust, etc., I let the pros blast the boat. They set up their protective tarp around the boat and by the time I was out of bed and dressed, they had it done. I still spent 4 days sanding their work, applying another barrier coat, sanding and then applying the VC17. I hope the boat goes faster and I won't finish in last place every time this season.

 

[Flip Rutledge]

It will make quick work f the old bottom paint.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...plication-Pad-10-Pack-DND050060H10I/304669183

These work good, but the velcro gives out quickly.

 

[GeorgeC]

Flip Rutledge....I removed the bottom paint about 20 years ago on my 30 O'day and used a chemical product called Peel Away. It did a beautiful job and the hull looked like it just came from the factory. The product was hard to use and when it dripped off my gloves and down my arm it would burn my skin and there was a mess of the product and the removed bottom paint in the stone under the boat. At the same time another guy a few boats down from me had his paint blasted off with walnut shells and it turned out fine. If I was doing it now I would spend the extra bucks and have someone blast the paint off the hull rather than use the chemicals. Good luck.

 

[Flip Rutledge]

I ended up sanding the last few layers off. I found some hull damage that had been painted over years ago. I will do some fiberglass repair today and hopefully barrier coat tomorrow. The blaster guy had already gone, so I missed that opportunity.