Solar Panels - Flexible Panels vs. Hard Bimini & Rigid Panel

Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
So now that I have put the non-solar powering item to bed (at least for me), I plan to go with running the diesel instead of a small gas generator, it's time to turn my attention to solar.

Since I had seen this post by the always helpful and inspirational MaineSail, I had planned on going with the flexible Solbian solar panels on my bimini. At the Newport Boat Show I spent a significant amount of time talking to the people at the Solbian booth. It was at this point that I began to think my plan for the Solbian panels might not work as I expected.
Sure enough, when I measure and planned out where the panels would be I couldn't fit what I wanted. I had hoped to fit two of the CP125 panels on my bimini with room to add some smaller panels down the line. But I can't fit those panels without crossing a bow for the bimini support which is a big no, no. The panels can flex on the bow and break. This means I would either have to go with the more expensive SP series panels or go for smaller sized panels than I wanted.

Since we are going to cruise in a smaller boat I know we can't fit enough panels to be entirely self sufficient. However, I would like to reduce the amount of time we have to run the engine to two hours or less per day. With that in mind, I worked up the attached power consumptions to help me figure out what my max loads will be and how much solar I should try to add. I included a watermaker in this analysis and I have played with the refrigerator amount as well because we plan to have a watermaker and a 12 volt freezer (leaning towards the Engel). I am also in the process of verifying our current 12 volt use based on readings from my battery monitor. I got the form I used from someone on Cruisersforum.com, I wish I could remember where so I could credit the person who created it. A copy is attached.

Power Consumption worksheet 2

I divided my usage up into 3 areas, under sail which is the worst case conditions, on the hook and on the hook with no one on the boat (for when we go traveling on land for a couple of days). I have estimated we will use between 55 and 165 amp hours per day while on the hook and as much as 200 amp hours per day under sail. With my current alternator, 60 amps, assuming a 75% efficiency (I am not entirely sure what efficiency to use) I can get back 90 amps from running the diesel for 2 hours. This would leave me with around 75 amps per day I would have to get back from solar (or more so I could run the engine less).

Solbian Panel Option

Under this option the first thing I would need to do is bring my current bimini to a canvas show to have some repairs made (rips and thin spots that have developed in the last 12 years since it was new). I have estimated this at about $700 based on talks with the canvas shop that made repairs to my dodger last year. Then I would need to make the bimini frame more rigid. It is currently 1" thick wall stainless held in place with straps. I would ditch the straps and then make the structure more ridged with some additional 1" tubing. The Solbian panels could then be mounted to the bimini with Velcro a la MaineSail's method. Here is what that layout could be.



If I went with the smaller SL90L panels that would put the cost around $3,700 for 37.4 amps per day. With the SP125 panels it would be closer to $5,000. Not a very cheap option.

Hard Bimini & Rigid Panels Option

Another approach would be to rebuild my current bimini with a hard, rigid cover instead of the canvas. I research this and found a number of people who have done with the King Starboard, purpose made panels from Hard To Top, Azek exterior plastic for houses and expensive, custom made fiberglass hard tops. The custom fiberglass is out due to cost. Same with the Hard to Top. Starboard would cost about $500 for enough material. But the Azek would only be about $125 and I could make the hard top from one sheet. Also at only a 1/4" thick and made from plastic, it wouldn't weigh too much yet with proper backing plates it would be able to support solar panels and a few other things. You can work the Azek trim sheets just like wood and I do have access to a really talented carpenter that could likely help me make this look professional. I could fit 3 large solar panels on this hard bimini (either 3 95 watt panels or 2 160 watt panels and a 95 watt panel). The cost to constructed the hard bimini would actually be less than getting my canvas one repaired. Here is what that layout would look like.



If I went with the larger 160 watt panels and a 90 watt panel I would get about 80 amps per day. This would cost about $2,500.

NOTE: This is based on the Go Power! solar panels sold by Defender. I need to do a lot more research to figure out if these are good panels or not. I suspect I am not making a true apples to apple comparison and may need to update this when I have research solar panels more. Please feel free to add any comments on these panels or recommend some good ones.

I am attaching a parts list for each approach. Let me know if you think I have missed anything.

Solar Cost Evaluation

Based on this first bit of research it's looking like the better way to go is the hard bimini. I would love to here from others on which approach they think is better.

Cross posted on my blog. (http://svsmitty.wordpress.com/2013/10/03/solar-panels-flexible-panels-vs-hard-bimini-rigid-panels/)
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
So now that I have put the non-solar powering item to bed (at least for me), I plan to go with running the diesel instead of a small gas generator, it's time to turn my attention to solar.

Since I had seen this post by the always helpful and inspirational MaineSail, I had planned on going with the flexible Solbian solar panels on my bimini. At the Newport Boat Show I spent a significant amount of time talking to the people at the Solbian booth. It was at this point that I began to think my plan for the Solbian panels might not work as I expected.
Sure enough, when I measure and planned out where the panels would be I couldn't fit what I wanted. I had hoped to fit two of the CP125 panels on my bimini with room to add some smaller panels down the line. But I can't fit those panels without crossing a bow for the bimini support which is a big no, no. The panels can flex on the bow and break. This means I would either have to go with the more expensive SP series panels or go for smaller sized panels than I wanted.

Since we are going to cruise in a smaller boat I know we can't fit enough panels to be entirely self sufficient. However, I would like to reduce the amount of time we have to run the engine to two hours or less per day. With that in mind, I worked up the attached power consumptions to help me figure out what my max loads will be and how much solar I should try to add. I included a watermaker in this analysis and I have played with the refrigerator amount as well because we plan to have a watermaker and a 12 volt freezer (leaning towards the Engel). I am also in the process of verifying our current 12 volt use based on readings from my battery monitor. I got the form I used from someone on Cruisersforum.com, I wish I could remember where so I could credit the person who created it. A copy is attached.

Power Consumption worksheet 2

I divided my usage up into 3 areas, under sail which is the worst case conditions, on the hook and on the hook with no one on the boat (for when we go traveling on land for a couple of days). I have estimated we will use between 55 and 165 amp hours per day while on the hook and as much as 200 amp hours per day under sail. With my current alternator, 60 amps, assuming a 75% efficiency (I am not entirely sure what efficiency to use) I can get back 90 amps from running the diesel for 2 hours. This would leave me with around 75 amps per day I would have to get back from solar (or more so I could run the engine less).

Solbian Panel Option

Under this option the first thing I would need to do is bring my current bimini to a canvas show to have some repairs made (rips and thin spots that have developed in the last 12 years since it was new). I have estimated this at about $700 based on talks with the canvas shop that made repairs to my dodger last year. Then I would need to make the bimini frame more rigid. It is currently 1" thick wall stainless held in place with straps. I would ditch the straps and then make the structure more ridged with some additional 1" tubing. The Solbian panels could then be mounted to the bimini with Velcro a la MaineSail's method. Here is what that layout could be.



If I went with the smaller SL90L panels that would put the cost around $3,700 for 37.4 amps per day. With the SP125 panels it would be closer to $5,000. Not a very cheap option.

Hard Bimini & Rigid Panels Option

Another approach would be to rebuild my current bimini with a hard, rigid cover instead of the canvas. I research this and found a number of people who have done with the King Starboard, purpose made panels from Hard To Top, Azek exterior plastic for houses and expensive, custom made fiberglass hard tops. The custom fiberglass is out due to cost. Same with the Hard to Top. Starboard would cost about $500 for enough material. But the Azek would only be about $125 and I could make the hard top from one sheet. Also at only a 1/4" thick and made from plastic, it wouldn't weigh too much yet with proper backing plates it would be able to support solar panels and a few other things. You can work the Azek trim sheets just like wood and I do have access to a really talented carpenter that could likely help me make this look professional. I could fit 3 large solar panels on this hard bimini (either 3 95 watt panels or 2 160 watt panels and a 95 watt panel). The cost to constructed the hard bimini would actually be less than getting my canvas one repaired. Here is what that layout would look like.



If I went with the larger 160 watt panels and a 90 watt panel I would get about 80 amps per day. This would cost about $2,500.

NOTE: This is based on the Go Power! solar panels sold by Defender. I need to do a lot more research to figure out if these are good panels or not. I suspect I am not making a true apples to apple comparison and may need to update this when I have research solar panels more. Please feel free to add any comments on these panels or recommend some good ones.

I am attaching a parts list for each approach. Let me know if you think I have missed anything.

Solar Cost Evaluation

Based on this first bit of research it's looking like the better way to go is the hard bimini. I would love to here from others on which approach they think is better.

Cross posted on my blog. (http://svsmitty.wordpress.com/2013/10/03/solar-panels-flexible-panels-vs-hard-bimini-rigid-panels/)
JK,

That is a AWFUL lot of weight up on a 1" bimini. Even with added structural supports AZEK and multiple rigid panels you are looking at well over 100 pounds of weight on the top of a 1" bimini frame. A single Kyocera 140 panel and the fittings to mount it on a bimini frame will weigh about 40 pounds..!!!

The Solbian panels are very pricey, especially the SP models. You might consider a new bimini frame made for 1 1/4" tube rather than 1"

This is what it took to stiffen a 1" frame on a Tartan 4100 for just a single Solbian CP-125..

Before:


After:


There was no way I was putting even one 140W rigid panel up on this one let alone two or three...

Put 100 pounds of weight on your bimini then go out sailing for a weekend in 15-20 knots and you'll see where I am coming from....
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Maine,

I was estimating the weight at about 140 lbs. I didn't think that would be a problem with four additional attachment points and the board to make the structure more rigid.

Is it the tubes, the fittings or the attachment points that you think would fail?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Maine,

I was estimating the weight at about 140 lbs. I didn't think that would be a problem with four additional attachment points and the board to make the structure more rigid.

Is it the tubes, the fittings or the attachment points that you think would fail?
The tubes likely won't fail but I have seen fittings fail and decks get damaged. You will want through bolted fittings at a minimum. The whole kit and kaboodle will begin to oscillate side to side wildly when it gets rough. The problem is not the downward weight but the side to side weight. You can try to do some "45" cross ties but the forward bow is tough to do that on and not be bumping your head or tripping on it......
 
Aug 3, 2010
88
Oday 28 Malletts Bay, Lake Champlain
Interestingly enough, there is a thread on another board about solid an panels and a Chinese version half the price, that seems to be connected manufacuring-wise
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Interestingly enough, there is a thread on another board about solid an panels and a Chinese version half the price, that seems to be connected manufacuring-wise

They are NOT connected in any way. I had Bruce Schwab, the importer, at my house just last night who confirmed this... The Solbian panels are made in Italy by Solbian.. The Chinese have begun knocking them off, nothing new... Keep in mind that the Solbians are specifically designed for marine applications and warrantied for marine applications. Marine was their first market, not an after thought.. Are they expensive? Yes, but they also stand behind them....

I will be very curious to see how long these Chinese panels last in the marine environment. I do suspect the prices of semi-flexible panels will come down when volume goes up but I hate to see it at the expense of quality...
 
Aug 3, 2010
88
Oday 28 Malletts Bay, Lake Champlain
Ok, this is most random, but I just bought some tape off you yesterday :)
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Ok, this is most random, but I just bought some tape off you yesterday :)
Thanks! I shipped it...


I think for JK I would much rather see him invest in a quality rigid panel such as a Kyocera, for a similar delivered price, than take a gamble on an unknown Chinese quantity where who knows how to deal with warranty issues? The mounting can be overcome with some work.. Shipping from China on a 120W panel was $125.00 making that good deal about the same cost as a premium grade Kyocera 140W panel..

A guy I know in the industry designed a great MPPT controller. He bid it out all over the world and finally decided to have it built in China. ISO 9001 etc. etc.. etc... They met every spec and for two years everything was rolling along perfectly. It was really a good product at a fair price..

He was almost done paying back his R&D costs and about to actually start making money, on his "risk", then one day he got an email from a customer of his wondering why his MPPT's were on eBay selling direct from China. Yep the manufacturer ripped him off an began selling direct. Only catch is they drastically cheapened his design so it was only really a look-a-like but it looked enough like his design that it put him out of business. Unfortunately the uneducated buyers assumed it was the same product, for 30% less, only it was a look-a-like not the same......:cussing:
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Thanks! I shipped it... I think for JK I would much rather see him invest in a quality rigid panel such as a Kyocera, for a similar delivered price, than take a gamble on an unknown Chinese quantity where who knows how to deal with warranty issues? The mounting can be overcome with some work.. Shipping from China on a 120W panel was $125.00 making that good deal about the same cost as a premium grade Kyocera 140W panel.. A guy I know in the industry designed a great MPPT controller. He bid it out all over the world and finally decided to have it built in China. ISO 9001 etc. etc.. etc... They met every spec and for two years everything was rolling along perfectly. It was really a good product at a fair price.. He was almost done paying back his R&D costs and about to actually start making money, on his "risk", then one day he got an email from a customer of his wondering why his MPPT's were on eBay selling direct from China. Yep the manufacturer ripped him off an began selling direct. Only catch is they drastically cheapened his design so it was only really a look-a-like but it looked enough like his design that it put him out of business. Unfortunately the uneducated buyers assumed it was the same product, for 30% less, only it was a look-a-like not the same......:cussing:
Yeah. I definitely don't want to be depending on some cheap Chinese knock off when I'm in the middle of nowhere in the Bahamas or the Caribbean.

Clearly I have more design considerations to work through. That's why I like this forum. Great information to help you work through stuff.

Thanks
 
Mar 30, 2007
67
Catalina 310 Manalapan, NJ
Yeah. I definitely don't want to be depending on some cheap Chinese knock off when I'm in the middle of nowhere in the Bahamas or the Caribbean.

Clearly I have more design considerations to work through. That's why I like this forum. Great information to help you work through stuff.

Thanks
I installed 2 Solarland 85 watt panels on my Caralina 310 that I purchased from e Marine solutions (met them at the Annapolis Boat Show) along with the controller, cables, thru hull adapter, and remote monitor. I took my boat down to the Bahamas and was totally energy independent. I purchased the fittings and arches from various sources (e.g. the arches from Sailrite) I was able to mount then over the bimini and they fit perfectly. Here us a pic of the boat w the panels. I am very happy with the results. Jeff
 

Attachments

Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
Jeff,

Thanks for the suggestion. With the 2 85 watt panels did you have to run the engine much? Were you using the refer?

Thanks,

Jesse
 
May 6, 2012
303
Hunter 28.5 Jordan, ON
Are there any good examples out there of rigid panels AS a hard bimini?

In other words, the panels mounted on tube (or similar) only, with the panels ganged together and the system designed to replace the shade/rain protecting functions of a bimini (rather than being an add-on to an existing structure).
 
Mar 30, 2007
67
Catalina 310 Manalapan, NJ
Jeff,

Thanks for the suggestion. With the 2 85 watt panels did you have to run the engine much? Were you using the refer?

Thanks,

Jesse
The refer was on continuously and I was totally energy independent and I never had to run the engine. I converted all my lights, including the anchor light, to LED's so I didn't had to worry about leaving lights on. I was surprised that all worked out so well. I suppose that if you have no sun for 2 days, on the third day I might have to run the engine, but this never happened. I also have 2 4D house batteries (not one) and a separate starting battery.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
OK, so we have made a decision about solar....

We decided to not do anything this year. We were going to move to a slip with no power starting next year but we figured it would be better to put that off for a year. Clearly my thoughts are not complete on this subject. I still have a lot of planning and research to do before I am ready to commit several thousands of dollars to this project.

Also, I am hoping that the cost of the Solbians will drop, at least a little, in the next year. My preferred approach would still be the Solbians on our bimini. MaineSail has pointed out some really big problems with going with the hard panels onto of a bimini like mine. And Jeff (doctorsail) and others have pointed out that I might be over planning the size I need.

So this project will be delayed for another year or so while I plan and research better.

Thanks for the feed back all.

Fair winds,

Jesse
 

Tom J

.
Sep 30, 2008
2,305
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
OK, so we have made a decision about solar....

We decided to not do anything this year. We were going to move to a slip with no power starting next year but we figured it would be better to put that off for a year. Clearly my thoughts are not complete on this subject. I still have a lot of planning and research to do before I am ready to commit several thousands of dollars to this project.

Also, I am hoping that the cost of the Solbians will drop, at least a little, in the next year. My preferred approach would still be the Solbians on our bimini. MaineSail has pointed out some really big problems with going with the hard panels onto of a bimini like mine. And Jeff (doctorsail) and others have pointed out that I might be over planning the size I need.

So this project will be delayed for another year or so while I plan and research better.

Thanks for the feed back all.

Fair winds,

Jesse
Jesse, Andante is on the hard at TRYC. If you want to look at our Kyocera panel mounted on davits, you can walk up to the yard from the gas dock. I'm on my way back to Hawaii, so I can't offer to meet you there. We have been able to sit on a mooring for a couple of weeks without running the engine, with the reefer running.
 
Nov 25, 2013
9
Catalina 32mk11 Chesapeake Bay
Re: Solar Panels - Flexible Panels vs. Hard Bimini & Rigid P

doctorsail- I'm looking at the same solar panel system that you have. Did you use your existing bimini frame, or did you have to beef it up? How much weight does the whole system add, and do you have a problem with side shift in weather?
 
Mar 30, 2007
67
Catalina 310 Manalapan, NJ
Hi,
I used my existing frame except I added an additional piece of stainless tubing that ran from the aft tube of the bimini frame to the rail directly under the frame. I also added a horizontal tube on each side that ran from the most forward tube of the existing bimini frame to the most aft tube of the bimini. This adds support and is necessary to mount the arches that will support the panels. Then I constructed the two arches and mounted the panels using Sea Dog rail mounts (327101-1); four for each panel. I have seen a lot of installations that included an additional brace between one of the arches and the horizontal member upon which the arches are attached. However, I found that it was not necessary. The attached diagram is a schematic of the installation with the members in white representing what I added.

My choice of the solar panel was based almost entirely on the dimensions that I required. I wanted to utilize the most surface area as possible without the boom hitting the panels and so that the panels did not extend aft of the biminl.

I was concerned that wind might be a problem but I had no problems at all. I sailed in winds up to 28 kts and was anchored on a blow w/ 37 kts. I was pleasantly surprised; no problem.

Let me know if I can help further
Jeff
 

Attachments

Aug 24, 2009
444
Catalina 310 Sturgeon Bay, WI
Doctor Sail

:theman:

That appearers to be such a simple solution for a great and sturdy mount - Thank you, thank you... Question, with the extra angle bracket back to the rail, so you find you even need the cloth tension straps any longer?

This is good stuff....
 
Nov 25, 2013
9
Catalina 32mk11 Chesapeake Bay
Re: Solar Panels - Flexible Panels vs. Hard Bimini & Rigid P

Hey Jeff- Thanks for the info. I had a feeling the cross braces would add rigidity, but the struts to the stern rail is brilliant. (BTW- I'm currently writing this from Tuckerton)

Jimmy