Solar or generator?

Jan 17, 2013
441
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Looking for something everyone has: opinions! I have been researching a better way to recharge my batteries (2 x 4D) rather than running the diesel which I hate to do. Have been looking at and am almost ready to purchase a 160 watt solar panel to mount on a pole on the stern. www.custommarineproducts.com
To clear the bimini and backstays the pole will be about 4.5 feet above the top stern rail and the panel is 39" x 39" and weighs 25 lbs. My only real hesitation with this is the windage created by this sizable panel sticking up in the air. My other option is of course a Honda generator which brings with it another set of issues. Cost is not a consideration because it is about the same with either option. Am I overthinking this or is windage a real consideration? Thoughts?....bob
 
Jan 17, 2013
441
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
It is adjustable and will be angled. When in use it can be rotated to maximize sun. When the wind picks up it can be rotated so it is flat. The guy selling it says this mounting and being able to rotate will increase efficiency by 30%.
 
May 16, 2007
1,509
Boatless ! 26 Ottawa, Ontario
What is best for you depends a lot on how you use your boat (mooring, slip with power, weekender or longer cruises), and your energy budget. A small panel install is best for topping up the batteries rather than expecting some bulk charging, while the engine/generator best for the bulk charging. Having a generator allows use of 110 V appliances, a smart battery charger, AC etc. We used a Honda EU2000 in the past and found it quite useful.

We upgraded to a 140 A alternator on the Yanmar and our boat came with a 3.5 kW generator. We installed LED salon, reading, anchor lights, improved seals on fridge and freezer. Conservation dollars give the biggest bang we found.

Last year we installed a 325 W Kyocera panel. It seems to be able to supply all of our electrical needs most of the time. We have not noticed any change in windage (we had lots to begin with). We kept the large panel low, close to our bimini using our own homemade frame. I have a photo album of the solar install here, http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/members/27616-albums4263.html if you are interested in specific details. We bought the panel from Emarine in Ft Lauderdale and found them very knowledgeable.
Good luck, Bob
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,002
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Looking for something everyone has: opinions! I have been researching a better way to recharge my batteries (2 x 4D) rather than running the diesel which I hate to do. Have been looking at and am almost ready to purchase a 160 watt solar panel to mount on a pole on the stern. www.custommarineproducts.com
To clear the bimini and backstays the pole will be about 4.5 feet above the top stern rail and the panel is 39" x 39" and weighs 25 lbs. My only real hesitation with this is the windage created by this sizable panel sticking up in the air. My other option is of course a Honda generator which brings with it another set of issues. Cost is not a consideration because it is about the same with either option. Am I overthinking this or is windage a real consideration? Thoughts?....bob
A bit over a year ago I bought a Nature Power 85-watt monocrystalline panel w/ charge controller to charge my 2 4Ds and dithered for several weeks over where and how to mount the thing. The decision would have been tougher if I had two of 'em (= 170 watts); which I might ultimately get. In short, I did not mount it "permanently" b/c I did not want a flat, fixed (mounted) object that large ( 34.5 x 27.2 x 2”) on the rails or over the bimini, etc. When I need it for a cruise or whenever, it is eye-strapped to the coachroof fwd of the traveler and spray dodger. From there, it can be adjusted to face more-or-less directly toward the sun. When I don't want it in the way I can unstrap it and take below where I have a spot to stow it. Of course, it's probably a bit easier to do that w/ a 38-ft boat than a 31-ft, but the idea is the same. If I had two, it would be tougher and I might have to mount them somewhere. However, one is enough for now; sometimes I supplement charging w/ the diesel after dark b/f turning in. So, now I have maybe 1 hr/day charging w/ the diesel instead of minimally two hr/day if not motoring somewhere.

Actually, the ticket here--at least for short cruises--from reading in this forum is: 1) figure and cut daily amp-hr requirement w/ efficient devices or go w/o certain things; 2) install a bank of true deep-cycle batteries; 3) "install" minimal-need solar panel(s); 4) survey and insure good terminal connections; and 5) up-grade engine alternator. Lastly, if going far and long, or need A/C, install a permanent (below deck) diesel generator if possible! If talking nearly $2,000 as you are for a high-class solar installation, I'd rather spend most of it on up-grading the battery bank to true deep cycle and get a smaller panel w/o pole, etc. However, as Stu Jackson likes to comment--your boat, your choice!
 
Last edited:
May 24, 2004
7,131
CC 30 South Florida
It will depend on your specific needs. Solar is passive and can maintain your battery banks even when the boat is left unattended. If on the other hand you are at a dock with shorepower and only need the power when you are aboard then a generator may offer more than just charging the batteries. I don't think windage will be an issue as the panel's surface area of 1521 sq in is very small when compared to the boat's overall freeboard and besides the wind force on the surface area of the panel will be reduced by the angle of inclination. If it were me my biggest consideration would be that a solar panel could not run my coffee maker. Hate to stand by the stove just to make coffee.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
We have 4 6volt golf cart batteries for a total of 460 amp hours at 12 volts. We use about 50 amps per day. With 2 100 watt semiflex panels on the Bimini we are typically topped off by 2 pm each day as long as it's sunny.

As far as the solar stick setup. We have seen a lot of the on sub-40 foot cruisers with them and most love the flexibility of the set up.

On the Honda, not for us. We don't want to be those people in the anchorage.

Why don't you want to use your engine to charge the batteries?
 
Jun 23, 2013
271
Beneteau 373 Newport
We decided we didn't want to see the structure and hard panels above our bimini or the added weight high up so we added Solbain flexible panels on the bimini.
They are attached with Velcro, easy to remove for off season boat storage or major storm prep.
Not as high an output per area as the rigid panel but work great for us when cruising and on anchor or mooring.
Check Maine Sails article, http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solbian_solar_panel
We have 2 x 4Ds for house, have changed all interior lights to LED.
Bene 373 w/ refer and separate large top load that we use as freezer or refer.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
it depends on how much power you use and how quickly you use it.
the solar panel solution is by far the best long term fix, and its reasonably cheap and easy to add on to if you design it from the start, knowing that you may want to add more panels later.
if you dont have refrigeration, A/C or using an inverter to run a TV or microwave oven, or burning lots of amps some other way, solar is way less hassle. install it correctly and forget it for many years.
what other power needs do you have other than nav equipment, VHF, sounders, stereo and cabin lights?... are you routinely pulling over 50-60amps out of your bank overnight? if not, the 160watt panel should be plenty for now.

when purchasing the parts, in addition to good panels. I would suggest getting a good MPPT controller that can handle at least 30amps... this will allow you to add another 160w panel sometime later if you decide you want more amps.

windage... are you concerned about how much it might slow you down, or how much stress is it going to get in the wind?...
how much more windage will it create than the bimini? probably not much if you mount the panel close over the bimini cover. I would worry about it being mounted on a high, unbraced monopole, for many reasons other than just the windage that it may collect. when the boat is rocking on the waves or when someone hangs on to it to brace themselves will likely cause issues at the mounting foot over time.
how often do you take the bimini down?... what if you braced up the bimini frame and bought some rail clamps, then mount the panel overhead, low profile, on the frame? its surprising how strong you can make a bimini frame with a bit of bracing
 
Jan 17, 2013
441
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
All good questions. My powernusage is primarily for refrigeration as I have all led lights below. Other power usage is occasional TV via small inverted, stereo and fans. While under sail, have most of the common instruments like autopilot, gps, depth, wind etc running. Have estimated power consumption in the 50-80 amp range with a 320 amp house bank wired in parallel and a small starter battery. Reason my amp range is so wide is that I am getting a new fridge within a month so I expect energy demand from the fridge to improve significantly. Today I estimate 60 amps per day which is why I am replacing it. Long term 50-60 total is probably where I will be. The 160 watt Bosch panel has peak amperage output of 9 amps and since it can be rotated toward the sun i am told this is a realistic number.

The single pole mount used is actually braced at both the bottom and top stern rail and attached to the top of the coming on a swivel ball mount. My windage concern came from my brother-in-law who races his J120 so the concern may not apply to a cruiser like me since I do not race. Still, wanted to ask for opinions on anyway because my concern is both slowing me down and the stress on the stern rail and panel when it is windy. Regarding the bimini mounting options, I am well aware but the issue is we rarely have our bimini deployed. Only when it's raining because otherwise we prefer to be in the sun. So I do not want a bimini mount nor do i want a frame over the bimini. Just prefer sailing without the bimini.

Last question is in regards to the mppt controller. I am told that two battery banks will require two mppt controllers and that the PWM controllers will connect to two banks and allow you to portion how much charge to each bank. Also, this panel is 20 volts so the guy says the improvement with mppt is not that great. Does this sound correct? Thanks....bob
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
All good questions. My powernusage is primarily for refrigeration as I have all led lights below. Other power usage is occasional TV via small inverted, stereo and fans. While under sail, have most of the common instruments like autopilot, gps, depth, wind etc running. Have estimated power consumption in the 50-80 amp range with a 320 amp house bank wired in parallel and a small starter battery. Reason my amp range is so wide is that I am getting a new fridge within a month so I expect energy demand from the fridge to improve significantly. Today I estimate 60 amps per day which is why I am replacing it. Long term 50-60 total is probably where I will be. The 160 watt Bosch panel has peak amperage output of 9 amps and since it can be rotated toward the sun i am told this is a realistic number.

The single pole mount used is actually braced at both the bottom and top stern rail and attached to the top of the coming on a swivel ball mount. My windage concern came from my brother-in-law who races his J120 so the concern may not apply to a cruiser like me since I do not race. Still, wanted to ask for opinions on anyway because my concern is both slowing me down and the stress on the stern rail and panel when it is windy. Regarding the bimini mounting options, I am well aware but the issue is we rarely have our bimini deployed. Only when it's raining because otherwise we prefer to be in the sun. So I do not want a bimini mount nor do i want a frame over the bimini. Just prefer sailing without the bimini.

Last question is in regards to the mppt controller. I am told that two battery banks will require two mppt controllers and that the PWM controllers will connect to two banks and allow you to portion how much charge to each bank. Also, this panel is 20 volts so the guy says the improvement with mppt is not that great. Does this sound correct? Thanks....bob
with refrigeration, 160watts wont be enough for a long term, trouble free system.

if you are designing the system around getting the max rated amperage out of the panel, you will be sorely disappointed, because it is un-realistic...

quoted here from wholesale solar website....
"The current and power output of photovoltaic solar panels are approximately proportional to the sun’s intensity. At a given intensity, a solar panel's output current and operating voltage are determined by the characteristics of the load. If that load is a battery, the battery's internal resistance will dictate the module's operating voltage.
A solar panel, which is rated at 17 volts will put out less than its rated power when used in a battery system. That’s because the working voltage will be between 12 and 15 volts. Because wattage (or power) is the product of volts multiplied by the amps, the module output will be reduced. For example, a 50-watt solar panel working at 13.0 volts will products 39.0 watts (13.0 volts x 3.0 amps = 39.0 watts). This is important to remember when sizing a PV system."

so there are too many variables... even if you have a lot of sun.
and the hotter a panel gets, the less efficient it is.... a panel in freezing temps with bright sun on it will have a higher output than the same panel set up in the tropics. although the one in the tropics will have sun for a longer period, the point is, the rating of the panel is not at 120 degrees surface temperature, which means it wont produce to its potential. and as the panel ages, the output will drop.
when the max output rating of the panel is created, its in a very cool atmosphere.
there will be too many hours that the panel wont be facing the sun directly, too many days where the power consumption goes on and on, but the panel can only put out a given amount, that is usually a decreasing amount, rather than an increasing amount. (bright sun, cool early morning with the panel facing directly toward the sun is the highest output of the day)

to think you will be a husband to the panel every hour of every day, and keep it rotated and tilted into the sun is expecting too much of yourself, because it wont happen.

more wattage would do you much better for your needs, and its reasonably inexpensive to add more watts by switching your plans to 2 smaller panels before you start buying and assembling. a small investment now in more power, will pay off big later.
if you install (2) 120w panels now and the right sized MPPT controller, and you install the system so its quick and easy to upgrade to 140's or 160's in a few years... you are taking care of your needs now and saving a LOT of money in the end, when you decide the time is right to expand.
always remember, a correctly sized and installed solar power grid/array can add actual value to the boat, but it can also be taken with you if you decide to upgrade the boats so its never a totally lost or bad investment.

you dont need 2 mppt controllers... all you need, and should have regardless if you have soler charging or not, is an ACR for your battery banks...

bracing the pole to the stern rail may not be a great idea... if there is ANY movement in the railing if you grab it and lean into and away from it, it may not be strong enough. even one panel is a lot of weight that high on a single pole, and there will be vibration due to wind and waves, and so over time you may begin to see stress cracks the the railing joints. just be aware...

and do you think a panel that is 48-50 inches long and 20-24 inches wide, mounted to a pole over the cockpit is going to be less ugly than a bimini frame, with out without the bimini canvas on it?
a well braced bimini frame will allow for two panels to lay side by side at a very low profile on top of it, and still be pleasing to the eye..
and yes, we all like the sun, but whether you have a solar panel overhead, or a piece of canvas, its still going to cause shade. and if the sun gets too intense, as it does at times here in the beautiful northwest, a bit of shade to get under is a good thing. in my experienced, but humble opinion:biggrin:
also, in addition to eye pleasing results, its always been my quest to design for "dual purpose" whenever possible.... this prevents having unnecessary protuberances hanging from, or sticking up or out from the boat everytime I want to add something else to it...
 
Last edited:
Aug 13, 2012
533
Catalina 270 Ottawa
I am told that two battery banks will require two mppt controllers and that the PWM controllers will connect to two banks and allow you to portion how much charge to each bank.
In most circumstances a MPPT controller should be more efficient than a PWM one. If your two batteries are connected in parallel, there is no reason to charge them differently (separately). For charging the starting battery, as well, I would suggest getting the best controller you can for the house bank and then an EchoCharger or a similar device to get the starting battery charged. Keep in mind that normally, the starter battery should be close to fully charged all the time. Cranking of the engine should not use it too much.
 
Aug 13, 2012
533
Catalina 270 Ottawa
just to add one more thing...
From my experience you can expect about 1 A for every 20 W of solar panel, when the going is great (full sun, proper exposure, no shading, etc.) and about half of that (0.5 A) on average. So in your case, the 160 W panel should be able to supply about 8 A at the peak and about 4-5 A on average.
 
Jan 17, 2013
441
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Agree and have learned that it makes sense to use a single MPPT to the house bank and not worry about the starting battery. Now I am looking into a telescoping pole to mount a smaller but more efficient panel so that I can loweritdown while underway and raise it up when at anchor and need maximum production. Trying to figure out how to make a SS telescoping pole at 6 ft long and 1.5 in OD. Any ideas?
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
just to add one more thing...
From my experience you can expect about 1 A for every 20 W of solar panel, when the going is great (full sun, proper exposure, no shading, etc.) and about half of that (0.5 A) on average. So in your case, the 160 W panel should be able to supply about 8 A at the peak and about 4-5 A on average.
Agreed...
one should plan their system to work at a 50% of the total watt rating of the panel(s), and then when you realize how over rated the panels are in a real world application, you will be happy that you did..
 
May 16, 2007
1,509
Boatless ! 26 Ottawa, Ontario
I think if you can do the job with one bigger panel it will more efficient than two smaller ones. The bigger panel will have a higher voltage output and lower current, saving I*2R losses in the wires going to the controller. The controller will only be trying to optimize the output from one panel, also a small increase in efficiency. I think a bigger panel with a higher voltage output will provide more power at lower sun angles as the voltage is higher than a smaller panel, so with the same number of watts the one larger panel can provide a bit more power. In my experience a 160 W panel will not supply all your needs on a live aboard with refrigeration. It can make a big difference in how much the engine needs to be run and can bring the batteries up to float after the engine has done the bulk charging early in the morning. If you are able to use the panel oriented to optimize the output through the day that will make a big difference in the harvest. It could get old on the anchor in shifting winds, tide etc.
good luck, Bob
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Good advice, thanks Bob.
I agree with Bob, but keep in mind that the bigger panels get, the more expensive they are... and it may be possible to get two smaller ones for very little more than the one big one.... and it really becomes cost efficient if the only panel gets damaged and you lose all output from it ... with two panels, you can seperate the bad one from the good one and still have a charging source, and be cheaper to replace.... kinda like NOT putting all tour eggs into one basket. but still, everything is a tradeoff...
And the bigger the panel, the uglier it is....
 
Jan 17, 2013
441
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Still working on this and I appreciate all the input. I suspect I will end up with both: smaller panel that is not as big and ugly and a Honda generator to have all option available...
bob