So we decided to go big...

Ken · Aug 14, 2012

Plan

Sounds like a solid plan!! I've done two bottom jobs (one had a lightning strike). I used west epoxy on both along with there 407 filler. It has a reddish brown color but sanding is much easier than some pf the others...

Good luck, take plenty of pictures keep us posted on your progress.

Joe · Aug 14, 2012

Check out Kiwigrip for the non-skid........ they sell it here.

windchime22 · Aug 16, 2012

KingAirDriver said:
We decided to go big and do a somewhat major re-fit of our 22, Mischief Managed.

Placed a big order to Catalina Direct, got all new Starboard Crib boards, and the holder rails, sliding top rails, hand rails, all rope halyards, new mast step (old one got ripped out and subsequently run over by a car at 60 mph, long story), all new standing rigging, bottom job, rebuilt the trailer, new motor mount...
Phew...LOL

AND we decided to paint the deck. The gel coat is destroyed...loads of crazing, some very large cracks, just ugly all the way around. Just curious, has anyone out there done the same job? Our boat sat under a willow tree in the Florida sun for 25 years. What type of fillers etc. does everyone have good experience with? We plan on using up the last of the 2 part Poly aircraft paint we have left over from the restoration of our Champ, so the topcoat is pretty much compatible with anything.

I was thinking West epoxy and light filler for the big stuff and a high build epoxy primer for the rest? Thoughts?

We are doing almost the same. I almost have all the hardware off the deck. I was planning on using the west system resin as well.

Are you going with white or an off white?

Chris Patterson · Aug 16, 2012

Pulling the windows is no biggee, seeing as how you have butyl it should go smoothly. I hesitate to advise taking them out if they don't leak, but if it were ME, I wouldn't hesitate. The paint job will be easier, look nicer, and with all your hard work, preventive sealing of the windows can not be a bad thing. It's when you take the windows apart that generally cause the most "problems", not taking them in or out, that job is a whiz bang.

When you go back with your track, you might want to consider a 1" track, as apposed to the 15/16" that's probably there now. Your car options are a lot better.

Chris Patterson · Aug 19, 2012

5/16" X 1 1/4" Stainless, grade 316 or better.

Chris Patterson · Aug 19, 2012

Negative, it's course, 5/16-18. You would think it is fine thread, (24 pitch), but it isn't.
It baffles me why, like a lot of things with this arrangement, I can think of 3 different things off the top of my head that would be different here, but Frank didn't ask me, go figure. But if I were so smart, there would be a thousand Patterson Yachts running around out there, haha.
BTW, they use lock washers, no flat washer, and blue Loctite as well. The best you're probably going to manage is a 1/4" drive socket in there as well. I did a little machine work on my last set that changed that situation though. Be vewy, vewy careful not to strip or break the bolt, drilling a S.S. bolt out of that silly stainless weldment is a tough one, right straight over you head. Trust me, the prior owner left me that challenge..

cjb300 · Aug 21, 2012

Well, one argument could be that since the spreader boots are there to protect your sail from chafe and the edges of the PVC 'could' possibly chafe your sails. If you use PVC T's i would make sure all edges are sanded smooth.

Chris Patterson · Aug 21, 2012

King Air, being the cheap scoundrel that I am, ie: poor, I bought a couple of those rubber chair leg boots that people put on them to keep from scratching the floors. I cut two slits in them for the shrouds, and put white tie wraps to hold them on, and they work great. 25+ bucks for a spreader boot? If I ever did something that silly, I'd hope my lovely bride would have me committed..

Erieau · Aug 21, 2012

"Poor" is a state of mind.
"Broke" is merely a financial condition.
I hope that you, like me, are only broke.

Merlin Clark · Aug 24, 2012

How about drilling out and re-treading for the next size bolt?
On the ones that aren't broken off, Autozone now carries a cold shock type product. Might help break the bond.
If you need any tools, floor jack, 4x4 chunks, bad advice give me a yell.

Chris Patterson · Aug 24, 2012

I have done this job recently. You can not drill it oversize, there is not enough material there to do it. The bolt is 5/16"-18. You will have to drill the weldment out 1" deep, and a bottom tap will have to be used to finish out the hole threads. I took a looooong time doing it, so as not to overheat the bit, or the fiberglass around it. NO cutting fluid would stay on the bit more than a couple of seconds, as you're drilling straight up, over you face, (it ain't pretty). I ended up having luck with Antisieze as a cutting fluid. There may be three hundred arguments about why Antisieze is not a proper cutting fluid, but it stayed on the bit fairly well, and it did drill the hole. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!! The hot stainless chips are real fun in your face.
All in all, it wasn't very bad. It just took some patience. But I've drilled out and tapped hundreds of bolts before, so I can't say this is an opportunity to start learning how. If you break the drill or tap off in the hole, nothing will save the day. Glassing in another weldment would be the only recourse.
You can do it man. Just be slow.

Chris Patterson · Aug 24, 2012

Oh yeah, this is what you're drilling.
I had these on standby in case it all went wrong. It didn't..

Chris Patterson · Aug 25, 2012

I guess, just guess, that from the factory that that screw just held it in place until the glass cured or something? I'm really not sure, the new replacement weldment doesn't have that hole at all, nor do I see a reason for it.
An easy out may work, it is worth a try, you have little to lose. You are going to drill it anyway, so by all means try it. It would not budge for me, I tried that first. There again, if an extractor breaks off in it, mmmm, big trouble, there's no drilling that thing out. I guess that is where a lot of experience with these things come in, knowing where that threshold is between "it might move, or it's gonna break".
That said, I've broken many taps, drills, and extractors in my dealings. Some critical, some not. And while glassing in another weldment would by no means be fun, it too, can be done.
But by all means try it. Once you relief drill it, with copious amounts of PBlaster, (my drug of choice), as you're peck, peck, pecking on the easyout, it might break free. Especially if you drill all the way through to the bottom,(top, whichever), of the broken bolt, and the penetrant can get through to the other side, it's only a plus. The weldment is exactly one inch deep by the way.

So we decided to go big...

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