Shroud Tension, Cockpit Drain, Windows

[Capri]

Hello, Everyone. I have a an '81 O'day 22 and have a few of questions.

1. I would like some advice on how much tension should be on the leeward side upper and lower shrouds. I have not professionally tuned my rigging outside of ensuring the uppers are taught, the mast is plumb, and the lowers are hand tight. But the leeward shrouds when tacking become slack so I wanted to ask.

2. I visited my boat yesterday and discovered the cockpit full of water. The drain is clogged. Does anyone fit a strainer of any type to keep debris out?

3. First let me say I am aware of the vast amount of discussion on repairing port lights. I simply wanted to know, with respect to an O'day, if there are any quirks to be aware of when resealing. I plan to use Dow 795 unless anyone thinks I'm wrong to use it.

As always, thank you.

 

[Brian S]

1. I think you might need a bit more shroud tension. But these boats are daysailing cruisers, not racers, and the hull can't handle racer-level rig tension. I think in about 12 knots, leeward shrouds being visibly looser, but not flapping around would be good. Still want to reduce jib luff sag to the extent you can. This link will download Seldén Mast's tuning guide, which will help you with regards to keeping mast straight and in column. Lowers hold mast in column, but overtight lowers can pull forward pre-bend out of the mast. About 1/2" to 3/4" of pre-bend is probably good for these boats. Clicking on this link downloads the file: http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1456145028/595-540-E.pdf

2. If you put a strainer over the cockpit drain, wouldn't that also clog up and prevent drainage? Mine is still on the hard, and I went to wash yesterday. Cockpit was filling up, so I tried to blast hose down drain. No good. Had to blast hose in from outside, and then it started to flow. Not bad for sitting in the cockpit, 'cos I sure didn't feel like climbing back down to the ground to go fiddle with the drain. Lots of tree pollen holder crap falling now...

3. My fixed portlights are flush mounted to cabin side. Looks like the 22 has a frame around them. So, I haven't had experience with that style, but perhaps sections of this article that I did not bother reading address those issues: http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/ For mine, the windows were reinstalled without fasteners, using 3M VHB acrylic foam tape for the physical holding bond, and then the 795 silicone structural adhesive around the tape. You will need to clean off silicone contaminated gelcoat, usually by sanding, so that the fresh silicone will stick to the gelcoat.

 

[SchwarckT]

Here is a copy of the owners manual with info on rigging tension. https://oday.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=130&aid=7699&mn=22

 

[Capri]

Thanks so much. Great advice!

 

[CloudDiver]

Dow 795 silicone is for frameless plastic (lexan) windows. If you have aluminum frames (and I suspect you do), butyl tape is the way to go. Its more forgiving if you make a mistake and way less messy.

 

[Windtherapy]

I only used Dow 795 on my new forward hatch window. I used butyl for all 4 of my port windows and it doesn't leak a drop.