serious bulkhead rot!

Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Got the one nasty chainplate pulled today. I wanted to get pics of it before any polishing. Would you take it to the metal fabricators as is, or try to clean it up some first. Measures about 14 x 2". I'll do a bit of searching to see what non-custom chainplates in that size typically run. I've been told to spec 316L stock. One route would be to buy blanks this size online and then get a local shop to drill them, I suppose.

Unfortunately, my friendly neighborhood diver showed up as I was working on the boat and I now have a cleaned bottom and running gear and nowhere to go!

Did a quick peek at the rigrite catalog and didn't seem to be anything in a 14 x 2. Seems like it'd be best to get an exact match, anyway, assuming the shop says they need replacing.

John
 

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Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I would clean them up as a first step. That way you, or someone, can inspect them better. I doubt you're going find these as a stock item anywhere. You might contact a rigger and ask if they know of a source
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
S2 9.2A Seattle, WA Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 83 S2 9.2A Starboard Chainplate Repair The Starboard Chainplate leaked and rotted the support bulkhead inside the boat. This is the repair I made. I cut out all the bad wood, made a filler for the cut out, fabbed a new aft plate and a new large backing plate that went inside the cabinet. I don't have a problem with seeing fastener heads, and I think it makes a stronger installation if they aren't buried in the wood. The parts are bolted as you see and the backing plate also has screws inside the cabinet. All parts have fiberglass cloth and resin between the mating surfaces. The repair is complete, I am still pondering whether to tab the new parts to the hull. I don't think it's necessary because the existing structure is already tabbed. Comments? ShareThis Attached Thumbnails http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51917&d=1336681025 http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51918&d=1336681025 http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51919&d=1336681025 http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=51920&d=1336681025
How hard would it be? It's a call I wouldn't know how to make..maybe do it for quality of sleep at night...
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Got the one nasty chainplate pulled today. I wanted to get pics of it before any polishing. Would you take it to the metal fabricators as is, or try to clean it up some first. Measures about 14 x 2". I'll do a bit of searching to see what non-custom chainplates in that size typically run. I've been told to spec 316L stock. One route would be to buy blanks this size online and then get a local shop to drill them, I suppose.

Unfortunately, my friendly neighborhood diver showed up as I was working on the boat and I now have a cleaned bottom and running gear and nowhere to go!

Did a quick peek at the rigrite catalog and didn't seem to be anything in a 14 x 2. Seems like it'd be best to get an exact match, anyway, assuming the shop says they need replacing.

John
John just clean it up and get a loop or magnifying glass and look for pitting and cracks if none you will be ok ..as for finding replacements that will be only at the machine shop those plates were made in house at S2 ..we are lucky in that respect because they are not of some elaborate design just simple bar stock and drilled holes if the others are as good as that one you may be ok fine with what you have
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
S2 9.2A
Seattle, WA



Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 83



S2 9.2A Starboard Chainplate Repair


The Starboard Chainplate leaked and rotted the support bulkhead inside the boat. This is the repair I made. I cut out all the bad wood, made a filler for the cut out, fabbed a new aft plate and a new large backing plate that went inside the cabinet. I don't have a problem with seeing fastener heads, and I think it makes a stronger installation if they aren't buried in the wood. The parts are bolted as you see and the backing plate also has screws inside the cabinet. All parts have fiberglass cloth and resin between the mating surfaces.
The repair is complete, I am still pondering whether to tab the new parts to the hull. I don't think it's necessary because the existing structure is already tabbed. Comments?

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Bob that looks fine as far as i can tell on the piece that has the finish teak that is exposed to the salon are you going to tab it to the hull are leave it just butted to the hull with glass in the contact area ...i am not at my boat right now but i think i tabbed it in cutting back the teak veneer about 2 inches and tabbing it in then covering it with carpet
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
John just clean it up and get a loop or magnifying glass and look for pitting and cracks if none you will be ok ..as for finding replacements that will be only at the machine shop those plates were made in house at S2 ..we are lucky in that respect because they are not of some elaborate design just simple bar stock and drilled holes if the others are as good as that one you may be ok fine with what you have
A great excuse to buy that Eastwood 10" dual-speed buffer I've been wanting!.

the plate does ring nicely when struck, which I hear is a good sign.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
A great excuse to buy that Eastwood 10" dual-speed buffer I've been wanting!.

the plate does ring nicely when struck, which I hear is a good sign.

John you are going to find that buffing SS is a different ball game than buffing gelcoat or paint ...buffing SS requires you to use various grits of sandpaper in progression from 400 up to 2000 grit and then using rouge on a hard buffing wheel and then white diamond compound on it ...and after that you need to passivate it with something like spotless stainless ...i use a lathe with a wheel and a mandrel at about 2400 to 3600 rpm for the compounds but a bench grinder with a mandrel will do the same thing there is another process called electro polishing but i have very little knowledge of it..... actually none... i guess this is a sign of old school or being set in my ways lol
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
John you are going to find that buffing SS is a different ball game than buffing gelcoat or paint ...buffing SS requires you to use various grits of sandpaper in progression from 400 up to 2000 grit and then using rouge on a hard buffing wheel and then white diamond compound on it ...and after that you need to passivate it with something like spotless stainless ...i use a lathe with a wheel and a mandrel at about 2400 to 3600 rpm for the compounds but a bench grinder with a mandrel will do the same thing there is another process called electro polishing but i have very little knowledge of it..... actually none... i guess this is a sign of old school or being set in my ways lol
Darn. I was just going to throw them in the dishwasher with a little Calgonite! Hmm. I may do that anyway, and then start the sanding process. Guess I'll add various fine grit papers to the HD shopping list. I hope they have a sale on infinite patience, as I'm running critically low!

John
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Woody,

I stopped at HD and got some fine sandpaper. I could not find the carbide multi tool blade (the one you'd recommended for cutting into the fiberglass around the knee), so I looked online. Is it this grout-removal blade that you're talking about?

John
 

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Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
Here's the chainplate after a few minutes with a Brillo pad, then a few more with 150 grit, I think it was. There wasn't much light, so the smoothness is slightly exaggerated by my unsteady hand.
 

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Here's the chainplate after a few minutes with a Brillo pad, then a few more with 150 grit, I think it was. There wasn't much light, so the smoothness is slightly exaggerated by my unsteady hand.
i dont see anything wrong with that plate if they are all like that you should be ok fine
 
Apr 27, 2011
423
S2 9.2A Newport News, VA
i dont see anything wrong with that plate if they are all like that you should be ok fine
Good to hear. I thought it cleaned up fine. I haven't seen any real evidence of crevice corrosion. I'll polish it a bit more, but it certainly seems up to the task.

John
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Okay. I'll get some of those, although I feel a lot less mistake-prone with the curved, rather than the straight, head.

Do you use the Fein tool? I've got the Bosch, which I generally like. I'm hearing some think the Dremel is easier to control.
i have the fein but the bosch is not bad so use what you have and learn to hold back on the tool till you get comfortable with it and how it progresses
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Okay. I'll get some of those, although I feel a lot less mistake-prone with the curved, rather than the straight, head.

Do you use the Fein tool? I've got the Bosch, which I generally like. I'm hearing some think the Dremel is easier to control.
lead the cut with the corner of the blade as opposed to using the whole blade to start the cut
 
Aug 14, 2014
44
S2 9.2A Selby Bay, MD
John,

I'm going through the same project right now on our 84 S2. I was able to get new SS stock from Express Metals cut to length. Some good carbide bits and a slow drill press allowed for mfr of new plates. The edges have been rounded and polishing is still not completed, but it isn't hard to make new plates if you have tools and some patience.

I also got new aluminum stock to replace the backing plates. The originals were showing some corrosion and holes on most were showing signs of elongation. Again, pretty easy to reproduce.

It's good to see the pics of the wood - I need to address my rot before installing the plates again. Woodster also provided an excellent suggestion of making plexiglass templates to mount temporarily while cleaning out the rot and epoxying the deck area to address the leaking.
 

BobM

.
Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Check the knowledge base. I posted the bulkhead repair done by the PO of my boat before purchase.
 

jguyer

.
Sep 16, 2010
41
S2 8.5 Milwaukee
Great thread!! Every time I read these I learn something!!
My 8.5 has some chain plate bulkhead rot. I removed the chain plate and inspected the bulkhead. I don't think it is so bad that I need to replace the entire chainplate bulkhead. I sanded the rotted portion. It was mostly just the first ply. When I got to solid wood I treated it with green anti freeze, to kill any additional spoors in the wood.
My plan is to use epoxy and cloth to build up the area I sanded out. Then add some thickened epoxy to the cored deck above the chan plate. Maybe re core the deck around the chain plate... Maybe. Finally re bed the chain plate with polysulfide. Then repeat and do all 6 chainplates.
 

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