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Saga continues: Muffler and stuffing box

Discussion in 'The Cherubini Hunters' started by Kommy000, Mar 6, 2018. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. Kommy000

    Kommy000

    Joined Aug 24, 2016
    45 posts, 5 likes
    Hunter 1981 Hunter 27
    US Saint Petersburg, Florida
    In my previous post I was removing the old fuel tank and planning on installing new plastic tank. Got busy with work and 1 month later I'm finally trying to finish this project. While there decided to check on muffler and see if it had any holes in it. Ended up keeping it and replacing the old hoses with new ones: Pictures below.
    While doing all this stuff and fighting with hoses in a tight space I noticed that the threaded portion of stuffing box was leaking once every 10 seconds. Now, I'm not a mechanic and I'm learning all this stuff as I go, so I have no idea if that is too much or normal. I know that it is supposed to leak and for some reason I thought that it is supposed to leak out of the clamped section to the right.
    This leak drops right in the middle of the threaded section so I'm thinking the nut has to be tightened?
    I looked on youtube to see if there is step by step on how to do that and which nut to turn and which direction. I was hoping since we all probably have similar setup to mine if anybody can tell me how to do it and if that is what needs to be done to make the leak slower? Or do I just leave it alone and proceed with my new fuel tank installation?
     

    Attached Files:



  2. heritage

    heritage

    Joined Apr 22, 2011
    450 posts, 53 likes
    Hunter 27
    US Cherry Point MCAS
    Your packing gland hose looks to be the original and should be replaced next time your on the hard. Check the bottom of the hose for moisture where it connects to the packing gland and where it connects to the stern tube. On my H27 the bronze stern tube had dezinctified where the hose is clamped on allowing water to seep in. Note the pink area in the pic. 20160306_114140.jpg 20160309_095756.jpg
     


  3. ggrizzard

    ggrizzard

    Joined May 27, 2004
    1,007 posts, 89 likes
    Hunter 30_74-83
    US Ponce Inlet FL
    Lets see if I can help. Looking at your stuffing box pic,
    H27 Stuffing Box.jpg


    the first item of interest is the Stop or Lock Nut on the far left (aft of the shaft coupler). You loosen it to get to the good stuff. It will take two wrenches to loosen. The Stop Nut sits next to the Stuffing Box Nut. It is the six sided nut standing proud in the center of the pic. That nut is seated on the stuffing box itself which is the round tube with all the threads, just before the hose and clamps to the right.
    Inside that tube is the Packing Gland. It can be made of waxed hemp or some exotic material sold at West Marine. The Stuffing Nut has and does compress this material deep inside the stuffing box (the threaded tube). All of that old material must be removed and new material installed, with the help of the many threads on the subject of: "Repacking The Stuffing Box".

    Once properly re-packed, the drip should be about 1 drop per minute when the shaft is turning. It should not drip when the shaft is idle. And, the drip should come from the Stuffing Box.

    Now please stand by for a chorus of "Dripless is best"!
     


    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
  4. Stu Jackson

    Stu Jackson

    Joined Feb 26, 2004
    19,911 posts, 576 likes
    Catalina 34
    224 CA Maple Bay, BC, Canada
    I think you got it backwards. The lock nut is the middle aft, the BIG nut is the packing gland, forward.
     


  5. ggrizzard

    ggrizzard

    Joined May 27, 2004
    1,007 posts, 89 likes
    Hunter 30_74-83
    US Ponce Inlet FL
    Stu, You are absolutely right. And as a result of my error, I am going in for eye surgery next week to get rid of my dyslexia and to get new lenses! :yikes:

    Kommy, please accept my apology. :oops:
     


  6. Kommy000

    Kommy000

    Joined Aug 24, 2016
    45 posts, 5 likes
    Hunter 1981 Hunter 27
    US Saint Petersburg, Florida
    Thank you guys for all the help. I was able, with the help of two newly purchased huge pipe wrenches to undo both nuts and slowly adjust them to get the leak to stop. I also checked and made sure that the shaft was turning freely. First time I've done something like that and I'm thinking next time I will repack it just to get that experience, especially since the boat is in the water. So this way I learn not to freak out when the water start coming in while I repack it.
    I have another question a little bit off subject but has to do with me fixing little things to get it ready to do a small trip and stay at Egmont key at the end of the month.
    The question is about the helm wheel. It is attached to a metal rod pretty well but you can pull and push the wheel and rod about 1/2" in and out of the pedestal. Is that normal? I don't see anything that I can do to prevent it unless there is something inside the pedestal that broke or has to be adjusted.
     


  7. ggrizzard

    ggrizzard

    Joined May 27, 2004
    1,007 posts, 89 likes
    Hunter 30_74-83
    US Ponce Inlet FL
    Well, I'll assume you've tightened the hub nut. If so, remove the wheel by unscrewing the hub nut and check the key on the shaft and the key way on the wheel. Not sure how any of that affects the fore and aft movement of the wheel, but it's a place to start. If the shaft moves with the wheel when you pull/push it you'll have to remove the compass and check to see if a "C" clip or retainer has broken/fallen off the shaft.
    When doing any of the above, keep a close eye on the binnacle for any loose or missing parts lurking inside or newly landed on the deck. Also, Google the manufacturer to see if there is a schematic of your model.
     


    Last edited: Mar 8, 2018
  8. heritage

    heritage

    Joined Apr 22, 2011
    450 posts, 53 likes
    Hunter 27
    US Cherry Point MCAS


  9. ggrizzard

    ggrizzard

    Joined May 27, 2004
    1,007 posts, 89 likes
    Hunter 30_74-83
    US Ponce Inlet FL
    Well my 79H30C has an Edson so YMMV.
     


  10. Kommy000

    Kommy000

    Joined Aug 24, 2016
    45 posts, 5 likes
    Hunter 1981 Hunter 27
    US Saint Petersburg, Florida
    Hmm, I looked at PDF and still don't understand what part would prevent the shifting forward and back the whole rod..Pictures do look like my setup. I'm going to remove the compass on my next day off and see if it's something obvious
     


  11. Dalliance

    Dalliance

    Joined Oct 6, 2007
    603 posts, 58 likes
    Hunter 1982 H30 Cherubini
    US Chicago (Burnham)
    Edson on my ‘82 H30 too. Can’t picture how he could have a half inch of fore-aft movement there. Something is wrong inside the pedestal.
     


  12. heritage

    heritage

    Joined Apr 22, 2011
    450 posts, 53 likes
    Hunter 27
    US Cherry Point MCAS
    I stand corrected. My 84 H27 used the Merriman binnacle. I had to replace it because of severe corrosion of the aluminium at it's base. I assumed that all the Cherubinis had the Merriman binnacle after reading several posts complaining it was difficult to, if not impossible to get parts. So I replaced mine with a used Edson that fit well and looked almost identical to the original.