restoring holiday 19

Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
well after three years of buying new parts and paint we are restoring sonictide, our Newport holiday 19/20. I thought I would post pics of the teardown to show others and post pics during restoration. any suggestions are welcomed. this will be my first restoration. my husband has helped his father his whole life with a 52' Atkins ketch and a few other sailboats so this is my son,13, and my first restore. .this will be a complete refit. all screws, turnbuckle bodies and cleats will be replaced with bronze( my hubby is very salty....) I'm using 1/8 swageless fittings and currently working on rudder since its too hot to paint.
 

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Jun 13, 2015
12
Newport Holiday 20 Lititz, Pa.
Hey! Let's proclaim a Holiday!

Wow, how cool is this!!!

I just got a Holiday 20 - and I'm just beginning to mess with it, too!

Pic shows my family and I(Circa 1973) out for the day...... Not really. Pic from web(Maybe a Newport catalog photo?)...

Other pics are the "new" boat, post first power-wash.

The 19 appears quite similar, other than "port hole" shape.

1. How are the top and bottom parts put together?

2. How did you get it apart? Don't know as I will go that far, but, it's tempting... I can see the pieces of foam down inside mine through a small deck plate - looks like quite a bit... Good!

3. Not really looking forward to the "fractional rig" on the 20. I can see, with the mast laying in my backyard, that the top(Above shrouds and stays) is already bent to a slight degree. We'll see.

How was yours rigged? Assuming some things about our boats may be very much the same(Or not?). I can't figure out if mine came with spreaders, or, if someone, later, added them to try to strengthen the mast or whatever? Anyway, I have no spreaders for it, just the spreader brackets on the mast, and two(One on top of the other) Shroud Adjusters attached to each chain plate! Appears as though once spreaders were installed, the shrouds were no longer long enough? Added an adjuster on each side to compensate? Can't test it, yet, as it only came with one shroud - sigh...

4. Just thought of this the other day, after noticing part of an old "sticker" on the mast that says the mast was made by Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co. All the fittings on mast and boom would seem to be, as well. I'm going to call Dwyer, and see if anyone there knows(Or remembers) the Holiday 20 - may even have Newport orders in the files?

Also not in love with the "traveler rig". Would prefer a "boom vang"-type main sheet arrangement, about 1/3 from the aft end of the boom, tied to the deck or CB trunk..? We'll see...

Also got 3 sails with the thing. One, the apparent main(Has "Holiday" on it!), and has reefing ties on it(!). The other two - I don't know, yet? One has a clear, plastic window in it(Genoa?), assuming the other is the standard jib. We'll see...

DO want to: Seal the "under-hull"(?) best as I can, so it doesn't get water in it in the first place(May be best done if taken apart?). Would rather be able to "removable plug" the lower part of the hull. Also want to greatly increase the size of the "scupper", on the "self-bailing" deck. They only self-bail if the water runs through them, I bet? 1 tiny hole, plastic hose which I can't get to, easily stuffed with ... stuff - not good.

Would love to rip-out the big "rear compartment/box" thing-a-ma-bob. What a painful, useless thing! And just re-form/glass the entire aft interior section(Maybe in the shape of a cooler I could drop into it?).

Be neat to replace the strange(I suppose functional.) lifting device for the center board - but with what? I'd like to cruise in the little craft, and that roller widget would hurt my back!

Also, mine came with Chain plates for shrouds AND forestay. would like to upgrade to Dwyer's stem head. And.......? Well, more as I dig in.

Other than these few, minor quibbles, I'm looking forward to the project. First though, at some 6am, at some little-used ramp, I'm going to put the thing in the water and see if it still floats. While it's sitting there sinking or swimming, I want to take a good look at the trailer.

Keep us posted!
Teddy G., KA3BHQ
Lititz, Pa.
www.teddygvo.com
 

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Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
Hi first of allbyour boat is and as mine. 19/20 same boat. I hope you have the cover for the back of the boat if not no can send pics and measurements of mine so you can make one. taking apart is simple. There is a rub rail you gently pry it off and under it is rivets. Take drill with small bit and drill rivets out. Then we hoisted top off with block and tackle using big tree limb as hoist. There is a second layer under it held by 3/4 flat machine bolts I just took drill with screwdriver head and took them out. It was light enough that it came right up with help of my son and husband. You will have to unscrew and take off the keel hoist in order to get it to separate and four fiberglass tack points. I used utility knife to cut those since there was little rosin. Remember to mark those are so if you paint the inner hull with bilgekote not to do those areas because you will need to reattach the lower hull to the middle deck.
Also my mast is Dwyer mast and I have ordered new rollers for my mast head as well as some replacement tangs to replace worn out ones from their website. They can provide you with a free booklet on rigging the mast. My mast had holes for spreaders so I ordered them and sure enough the spreader arm attachment fits the holes perfectly. Their website is easy to navigate and measuring is some. The shroud adjusters allow you to attach side stays and a spot to attach a snatch bock if you want a line from spinnaker, jib to back where you can adjust while navigating.
I wouldn't recomment taking out the transom plugs. When it's raining or your sailing with a lot of water coming on I will accumulate in hull. I use self draining plug that works great. Also the back storage locker is a great to keep your anchor and a small soft cooler. I've also used mine as a live well while fishing. It has the deck plate there for you to be able to see how much water you have below. I noticed we sail better after we taken on a bit of water and its in the bilge. There is an area where the mini cabin is and keel where water flows down into bilge from where you are sitting.
As for rigging 8mm rope and 1/8 1x19 stainless cable. I bought my cable from Dwyer mast. Using swageless fittings and replacing nylon cleats with bronze fornlong term durability. Put pics of your sails and I may be able to classify them for you. Prob mainsail, jib and spinnaker.
 
Jun 13, 2015
12
Newport Holiday 20 Lititz, Pa.
Check it out ---

http://holland.craigslist.org/boa/5168519421.html

It's our boat!



Hi first of allbyour boat is and as mine. 19/20 same boat.

When you look at the picture of mine you see the different shaped port hole - likely different year? Certainly looks the same, otherwise.

I hope you have the cover for the back of the boat if not no can send pics and measurements of mine so you can make one. HAVE IT - just don't like it.

taking apart is simple. There is a rub rail you gently pry it off and under it is rivets. Take drill with small bit and drill rivets out. Then we hoisted top off with block and tackle using big tree limb as hoist. There is a second layer under it held by 3/4 flat machine bolts I just took drill with screwdriver head and took them out. It was light enough that it came right up with help of my son and husband. You will have to unscrew and take off the keel hoist in order to get it to separate and four fiberglass tack points. I used utility knife to cut those since there was little rosin. Remember to mark those are so if you paint the inner hull with bilgekote not to do those areas because you will need to reattach the lower hull to the middle deck. May end-up doing - don't know, yet?


Also my mast is Dwyer mast and I have ordered new rollers for my mast head as well as some replacement tangs to replace worn out ones from their website.

Yes, mine is a Dwyer, too - says so on part of an old sticker on the mast!

Could not find any reference to "spreaders" on the web? My mast has Dwyer spreader brackets, but came with no spreaders? NOW, with the pix from the guy's Craigs List boat, I can see his has them!

The question remains - Why do I have two shroud adjusters on each chain plate(Back-to- back.)? Seems like the shrouds were not long enough??? Why ? Dwyer, if they have the files on the old Holidays, may know? I have only one shroud, so I can't even test-fit. Will have to buy one, the same length as I have.

I wonder how long your shrouds are? Measured as per Dwyer measuring instructions? I will measure mine, tomorrow, and we can compare shroud length.

I like the newer, fancier mast head fitting, as well. Easier to mount a mast head light and even a vane, if desired.



They can provide you with a free booklet on rigging the mast. My mast had holes for spreaders so I ordered them and sure enough the spreader arm attachment fits the holes perfectly. Their website is easy to navigate and measuring is some. The shroud adjusters allow you to attach side stays and a spot to attach a snatch bock if you want a line from spinnaker, jib to back where you can adjust while navigating.

I'll post pics of my "two adjusters per shroud", so you can see what I mean.

I wouldn't recomment taking out the transom plugs. When it's raining or your sailing with a lot of water coming on I will accumulate in hull. I use self draining plug that works great.

My boat has two holes in the back of the transom near/at the waterline.

One, for the self-bailing deck(Should have no plug.), BUT, should work! Be large enough not to get full of crud and not be self-bailing - which it isn't... I will be, somehow, enlarging this "scupper"(Probably adding one of the fancy anti-backwater fittings, too.). This deck hole goes to a 3/4" clear plastic hose, then under the deck & big box, to one of the holes in the transom. Again, just not big enough. Any sort of screen on a hole this small would just make it worse.

Second hole, just to the inner side of the transom, for the "under-hull", which I think should have a plug, but mine does not(no easy evidence that there ever was..?). Will have to get mine on the water to see if it leaks, floods-in that hole, first, then fool with it. I don't want any water to get into the hull/under-hull.



Also the back storage locker is a great to keep your anchor and a small soft cooler. I've also used mine as a live well while fishing. It has the deck plate there for you to be able to see how much water you have below. I noticed we sail better after we taken on a bit of water and its in the bilge. There is an area where the mini cabin is and keel where water flows down into bilge from where you are sitting.


As for rigging 8mm rope and 1/8 1x19 stainless cable. I bought my cable from Dwyer mast. Using swageless fittings and replacing nylon cleats with bronze fornlong term durability. Put pics of your sails and I may be able to classify them for you. Prob mainsail, jib and spinnaker.[/QUOTE]

There is only one cleat on my entire boat! I will be adding a couple more.

Oh! How long are your spreaders? Or do you have them, yet? I have none.

Need your shroud length(For sure) and spreader length(If you have it?), so I can compare, then order new for me(Will, likely, have them make them-up for me.). I will ask Dwyer if they have the old records of what they were, originally. MAY even email the guy selling his 19' on Craig's list, to see if he can get measurements!!!

Thankx! More later...


Teddy G.
Lititz, Pa.
www.teddygvo.com
 
Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
Hi first off the port Windows changes thru the years. First one I believe was 1964 up til 80's. Look on outer transom and it may have a series of numbers embedded in it. Mine is 67 holiday 19.67 feet long..aka 20...
Does the two holes in your transom have two little hole on each side? Mine had plastic thru-hulls 3/4" and I replaced them with bronze. Walmart carries a plastic version you can put on that has screw in plug.
As for spreaders you have to measure them. They come 24" and that should be fine. Your stays come to outside of spreader and you tie them in with a wire(on Dwyer site with spreader. Called spreader wire). Typically end of spreader is equal to side of boat to form almost a straight line down. Second stay comes off last below spreader and attaches to lower hole in bracket on deck. The forstay bracket also has two holes to tighten mast . you just choose one. If want tight to racing we typically use lower hole and upper hole for cruising.
 
Jun 13, 2015
12
Newport Holiday 20 Lititz, Pa.
Hi first off the port Windows changes thru the years. First one I believe was 1964 up til 80's. Look on outer transom and it may have a series of numbers embedded in it. Mine is 67 holiday 19.67 feet long..aka 20...

Will look.


Does the two holes in your transom have two little hole on each side?

No. Just the two drain holes, about 3/4" each.


Mine had plastic thru-hulls 3/4" and I replaced them with bronze. Walmart carries a plastic version you can put on that has screw in plug.

Did your deck drain have a hose on it, running to the one transom hole? Mine does, but it's too thin and clogs-up.

Going to replace the one running to deck drain, with hose. At least twice as large..?

Other will try some plugs I have. If not, I will replace, as you suggest. Plastic is more my speed - ha!


As for spreaders you have to measure them. They come 24" and that should be fine. Your stays come to outside of spreader and you tie them in with a wire(on Dwyer site with spreader. Called spreader wire). Typically end of spreader is equal to side of boat to form almost a straight line down.

Very good. Will assume my one shroud is "proper length", and order another + 24" spreader rods.


Second stay(Second??? Isn't it just the main shroud running down over the spreader to the deck chain plate?) comes off last below spreader ------

and attaches to lower hole in bracket on deck. This where I might run into a problem. The one shroud I have left may be a "wrong length" replacement? We'll see?


The forstay bracket also has two holes to tighten mast . you just choose one. If want tight to racing we typically use lower hole and upper hole for cruising.
Mine has another chain plate at the bow? Will try to replace with Dwyer's Stem Head.

If you have the original main sail - what is the big number on it? I haven't pulled mine out to look. If they have them at all?

Sent email to owner of H19 for sale(Craig's list), in Michigan. See if I get any response. Big number on his sail is "157"

Thankx!
 
Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
hello sorry it took so long for me to repost. i had a major accident last year and just now getting back to restoring my holiday 20.
I will be using interlux perfection paint on top and vc performance on bottom. i have already put the first coat of grey bilgecoat inside the bottom inside hull because i realized while sailing water acculated in there. I am replacing cleats with bronze herreshoff 6" from hamilton marine and have spent the year collecting various bronze fitting for the boat.
I am using loos 1x19, 1/8" cable on all rigging and using hayn hi mod compression fittings and bronze turnbuckles with stainless studs and toggles. shrouds are about 18' and forstay is 21' on my holiday 20.
I decided to use harkin depth finder with the in hull transponder. a great spot is about a foot forward of swing keel. it is a real flat surface and my tests showed debth perfectly there. i cut and taped a piece of carboard out on surface of keel and put the transponder in there and taped it down. then i pourd west epoxy in there and let it set up. i also had to epoxy the holes of the fiberglass tube that runs inside the hull on both sides otherwise the bligecoat would be useless in keeping hull dry. i will replace the transom drains with bronze ones i found at academy sports, they are non syphoning, although the plug will be in there when under sail.
The original mainsail is still decent. i like it because of the big H20 on the sail. I replaced cable with stainless steel that was rubber coated from loos. i also reinforces the whole leech with a new layer of dacron sail cloth inside the old cloth so the sail would and lined up old sew holes and stitched back by hand using double needles and white sail thread from sailrite.com.
PARTS LIST: if anyone is looking for the machine bolts and the little square nuts that hold the inner and outer hulls together they are at jamestown distributors. the nuts are FSSLNC632P.M. NUT 18-8 S/S 6-3 and theysell them by the hundred as well as the screws, FSSMSFH632X3/4MACH SCR FLAT SLOT S/S 6-32 x 3/4. the rivets that hold the rub rail to the hull is RIV-AB612A RIVET ALUMINUM 3/16 DIA X 3/4"
i will post later with pic and more infor but I'm in the middle of sanding hull before putting interprotect 2000e the whole hull. prep work is more important than the paintjob. I used the interlux fiberglass wash and it is great. mix it real good and apply with maroon scotchbrite. i went to lowes and bought the 8 pounds of paint rags and their gallon bucket for this job. you will go throug alot of rags. dont let fiberglass prep wash dry out or you will have to start all over...like i did! use a spray bottle and mist you outer hull. if it runs or makes drops you do not have all of the waxes off, reapply wash with scotchbrite. it took me two full rounds on boat then i misted with water and spot cleaned the third time to get the final waxes off. do not sand before this procedure. do this first then wipe with interlux 202 then sand, wipe again with 202 then you can put primer on. interlux spokesman told me two coats of interprotect 2000 on whole outer hull, four on bottom and just two on topside. topside then gets two layer of primekote before the 3-4 layers of perfection. they told me to apply as thinly as possible with roller and tip with brush.
im using elder and jenks shipmate 100% pure china bristle brushes from benjame moore paint store for all brushwork. for interprotect 2000e im using Linzer pro edge microfiber 3/8" nap roller. interprotect website showed using 3/8 or 1/4". west system foam rollers on all other paints since it is resistant to chemicals and i want to apply the paint as thinly as possible.
 
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Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
Better late than never right even if it took five years! Finally got back to refitting Sonic Tide. Just started the new paint job and waiting on the material to make new sails. I ordered a new rudder from ruddercraft.com back in July for a end of Sept ship date but its delayed 5-8 weeks due to waiting on stainless. Any questions I will try to answer
 

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Apr 22, 2015
16
newport holiday 20 Tennessee river
i have started posting videos on my youtube chanel of mybprocess of refitting and restoring sonictide if anyone is interested.
ynssailing
 

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