Restoration, 22' Mac

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Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
So far, while trailering, my mast is tied down hard to the pulpit and at the hatch/companionway interface... nothing supports it further back than that, and I've not seen a problem yet. I should look into a masthead support for use on the road, I suppose.

I'm happy to report that the crutch worked great for getting the base locked down far easier than last week's attempt. Turned a 20 minute exercise in frustration into a 2 minute exercise in satisfaction.

Oh, and pics...

Me at the helm:


Out in the river, trying to get the keel down (another story):


It's good to have minions at hook-up time:


Returning by sunset:



I didn't raise sail, because we couldn't get the keel locked down. Our first attempt ended with a grounding, because Gravely Point is a rather shallow inlet, and we weren't out far enough in the river. The second attempt failed, because of the headway I was making with the engine... I think it was keeping the keel from fully dropping, so my first mate couldn't get the hole lined up. Since we were short on time and I hadn't put 2 and 2 together yet on the boat speed being the cause of the problem, we satisfied ourselves with the gentle evening cruise by motor.

And let me tell you guys, it felt good to be on the water again.
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
Smithy, Looks like paradise. what river are you on? We loved our 222. Tough little boat, easy to launch and sail. We used to strap center of mast to mast step for trailering. Keep pumping to a minimum. Congrats. Fair winds and full sails....
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
Thanks for the window answers, guys. Not trying to hijack the thread; just couldn't get signed on any other way the other night.

Getting back on topic: I, too, am thinking about making a mast carrier that will attach to the rudder mounts while trailering. I'm concerned about stress on the rudder mounts caused by the mast bouncing while on the highway.

I was thinking of building a small gas shock absorber into the carrier upright to cushion the ride.

Is this a legitimate concern? Nothing to worry about? You experienced guys: whattayathink?

VBR,

Pat
Hey Nemosuit, If you tie down the mast at the crutch you don't have to worry. also we strapped the mast down at the mast step to keep pumping to a minimum. I used to sell these beasts and I always told new owner to get some aluminum plate and backup everything. I've seen lifeline stanchions ripped out of the deck. This is not just specific to Ventures. Cheap insurance. When ya gonna launch her? Fair winds and full Sails....
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
I use this set up for the rear because it is 70 miles to the ramp and 30 miles is the kind of freeway that makes you say ahahahahahah.
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
This keeps the center of the mast from bouncing.

It is just a short section of 4x4 trimmed down to fit the mast mount and uses the same bolt as the mast and a couple of small pieces of plywood.

The eye bolts allow tying down.

 
Aug 15, 2010
376
MacGregor 22 Hilo
This keeps the center of the mast from bouncing.

It is just a short section of 4x4 trimmed down to fit the mast mount and uses the same bolt as the mast and a couple of small pieces of plywood.

The eye bolts allow tying down.

Yup! Just might change my user name to "Idea Bandit" because this thread has a couple more good ideas I plan to steal! :)

"When launch" F77? I hate to say it. I was planning to retire in September and dedicate myself to putting the boat in the water ASAP after that. But Employee Retirement Services messed up my seniority record; that makes my pension money funny; and I'm working on straightening out their mess. Might not be able to go in September, but still hoping...

Other buggaboos...it's just been way too rainy and humid lately to do the epoxy and paint work the hull requires.

When will it be ready? When the Big Guy upstairs stops messin' with my lifestyle, I guess. :D

But thanks for askin'. :)

VBR,

Pat
 
Nov 23, 2010
116
MacGregor Venture 22 OK/TX
Congratulations!!!

So far, while trailering, my mast is tied down hard to the pulpit and at the hatch/companionway interface... nothing supports it further back than that, and I've not seen a problem yet. I should look into a masthead support for use on the road, I suppose.
I'm happy to report that the crutch worked great for getting the base locked down far easier than last week's attempt. Turned a 20 minute exercise in frustration into a 2 minute exercise in satisfaction.
Oh, and pics...
Me at the helm:


Out in the river, trying to get the keel down (another story):


It's good to have minions at hook-up time:


Returning by sunset:



I didn't raise sail, because we couldn't get the keel locked down. Our first attempt ended with a grounding, because Gravely Point is a rather shallow inlet, and we weren't out far enough in the river. The second attempt failed, because of the headway I was making with the engine... I think it was keeping the keel from fully dropping, so my first mate couldn't get the hole lined up. Since we were short on time and I hadn't put 2 and 2 together yet on the boat speed being the cause of the problem, we satisfied ourselves with the gentle evening cruise by motor.

And let me tell you guys, it felt good to be on the water again.
Been following your progress.
Good going, looks like you and the scouts did really well.
Keep up the good work,
 

Smithy

.
Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Hopefully this'll be my last major restoration question.

When we were in the water, we observed a very slow drip from the portside of the keel bolt. Not enough to concern myself with. The starboard side, however, was a different story. I had over a gallon seep in during the 1.5 hours we were in the water. This does not bode well for a week-long adventure, at least not without a proper pump or bailing system.

My thinking is, to get under the boat with a pair of car jacks, and a plank, and gently relieve pressure on the bolt so it can be removed and replaced easily, scrape off any old gasket material, sand down the sides of the keel trunk, then install a new bolt with large washers and a couple layers of rubber washers, with RTV sealant applied liberally all around.

Does anyone's experience suggest that this won't work, or that there's a better way to deal with the problem?
 
May 12, 2011
66
MacGregor 25 Hefner
I have absolutely no sailing experience, but I don't think you want to layer rubber washers. I just bought a new pivot bolt with concave washers and rubber washers from BWyachts.com, $25. I'm not a rich man, but thought it was semi reasonable. Hopefully that's helps a little. Good luck.
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Ok, my thinking was to use 2 rubber on each side, under a large steel washer, for compression - with RTV sealant between each layer, it ought to work like gaskets on an engine.

Ought to, at least, to my mind.

Why would this be a bad idea in the marine application? Just more gaps to possibly leak through? I was going to use sealant around the throat of the bolt, and under the nut as well.
 
Oct 24, 2008
424
Macgregor 25 (1984) Wildomar, So. Cal.
Does anyone's experience suggest that this won't work, or that there's a better way to deal with the problem?
Your approach to the problem should work fine. I did it that way when replacing the keel bolt in my 25. I lowered the keel as far as it would go, then put just enough tension back on the cable to bring it taught and to help hold things where they were. As a precauton, I also ran a line around the rear of the keel so it would not tend to slide rearward.I then supported the front with a floor jack to take pressure off the bolt.
I simply cleaned any old sealant from the surfaces and replaced everything with the kit mentioned from BWY. I found I didn't need to apply any new sealant - the rubber concave washers did a great job of sealing things up. If they hadn't, I would have applied some RTV.
Good luck with the project!
 
Sep 25, 2008
957
Macgregor & Island Packet VENTURE 25 & IP-38 NORTH EAST, MD
I would use Lifecaulk (a polysulfide sealer) instead of RTV. It can be apllied even when the area is wet. No need to mess with the pivot bolt, just clean around the bolt and then liberally apply this sealer and smear it around with you finger to totally cover the bolt and nut and around the washers. Put the boat inthe water, and if it still leaks, put some more on until it stops. I do my pivot bolt this way (both ends) whenever I mess with the bolt/keel, and it never leaks a drop. In fact, water used to come pouring in my lockdown hole (I'm one of those that doesn't put the bolt in for various reasons), but I cut down a wine bottle cork to size, applied the Lifecaulk very liberally and that hasn't leaked either.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I don't remember who first put this advice up here but I used it this past weekend and it worked great.

PLUMBERS PUTTY!

I just mashed it over the bolt holes and no leaks.
 

Smithy

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Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Bought the new bolt kit, and it looks much beefier than the gear that's on there in terms of sealing it up. If the old bolt's been there a while, too, then it's probably a good idea to replace it anyway. I'll jack up the keel this weekend and get it swapped. Thanks for the tip.
 
Jul 29, 2010
1,392
Macgregor 76 V-25 #928 Lake Mead, Nevada
Hey Nemosuit, Find a virgin and make a sacrifice to Pele. Good luck on finding the virgin.:D Better yet email the Kahuna.:) Fair Winds and Ful Sails. P.S. My friend are cruising the Islands this week.
 
Feb 8, 2009
71
Macgregor 22, 26S Norfolk
I've got one on my 1980 v-22 that I am parting out. (hatch cover, that is....)
 
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Smithy

.
Dec 13, 2010
162
Macgregor 22 Alexandria, VA
Holy cow, that was a doozy.

It took 2 of us over 2 hours to replace the keel pivot bolt today. Our major issues were:

1. Getting the perfect balance of pressure on the keel from a jack below, to facilitate removal of the old bolt.

2. The old bolt was not only pitted, but undersized (3/8"?) and bent in the middle, which made things ugly.

3. A previous owner had put silicone over everything, which made unthreading a nightmare.

4. The holes in the fiberglass trunk were undersized to accept the new 5/8" bolt from BW Yachts, so we had to drill out.

5. These holes were found to be not quite aligned, further complicated the re-install


That's about it, I think. Once we opened up the holes, put the huge rubber washers on with a smear of RTV, and got it through the keel hole, we were golden. Cranked down hard on the rubber, and if that sucker leaks now I'll eat my hat. The monster washers and larger bolt ought to keep this thing happy for another 40 years or more. I'm glad I replaced it too, because the old system (hidden under paint and caulk) was nothing more than a couple wimpy fender washers and thin rubber washers with silicone gooped between everything. No wonder it was leaking.

All that's left, really is to wire the interior 12V system for lights, the running lights, and an aux port. And maybe a line for the engine starter, if it works.
 
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