I just tried it and it works for me. There's no need to register to read the links. Try refresh F5 when you get there.
Replacing engine starter switch on a H31
- Thread starter IH82BL8
- Start date
Couple of differences worth mentioning between the Universals in Catalinas and the Yanmars in H-31. The tacho is not driven off the alternator, there is a magnetic pick-up on the flywheel that counts teeth. It uses very low currents, so the connectors aren't as critical..but they do get corroded and need cleaning. There is no standard ammeter on the Yanmar, so there are no high ampere circuits serviced by those crappy connectors. The wiring diagram I attached shows both those points. The pushbutton for the starter is only a couple of amperes. The power circuit for the entire panel is fed through a crappy 30 ampere fuse holder that is part of the stuff that should be cleaned or replaced ..
Gee, is free too much?
I've been posting links to our C34IA forum for as long as I've been here, and I gotta admit, you are the very first person who has ever come up with that.
No, I registered, I'm just waiting for them to get back to me. Thanks for the links.Gee, is free too much?
The intermittant starting problem with Yanmars (and perhaps other engines as well) is almost always due to the battery not being able to deliver adequate amps to the solenoid due to poor and/or aging wiring harness connections. My 1986 Yanmar 2GM20f has about a million connectors, all of which reduce power delivered to the solenoid/starter. The easiest fix is to by a 12 vdc/30 amp relay and add it to the solenoid. Total cost for the relay/fuse and holder/wire, etc, is less than $30. It may not be the "best" solution to this common problem, but when this issue came up on my boat some years ago I added the relay and have not had the problem every since. Happiness is hearing that engine start every time you hit the starter....
Attachments
Thanks for the wiring diagram. I need to do this. Mine takes a couple of presses to get the starter to kick in.Install a relay for the starter solenoid... I would stay away from a radio shack relay, however.
Use a REAL solenoid of quality like this one from West Marine:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--12v-solenoid--102020
This one is pricey. Don't use a cheap relay in an engine compartment that gets hot.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-hersee--12v-solenoid--102020
This one is pricey. Don't use a cheap relay in an engine compartment that gets hot.
This looks the same, but is less money. Whats the difference?
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cole-...59A-8D7094264DD0&cm_sp=Onsite-Recs-_-MB-_-PDP
Just so you know why, when I had my system all apart I measured the resistance of the starter solenoid primary winding, the one that connect through that push button switch. To my amazement, it was 10 ohms.
Per ohms law (I'm an Ex Navy Electronics Technician):
I = E(squared)/R -- I=Current, E=voltage ... translation:
I=144/10 which is 14.4 AMPS!!!!!
That cheap push button switch has 14 AMPs shunted through it. Any sort of weakness in ANY part of the wires, connectors, or switch will cause the familiar "click... click".
Shame on Yanmar for putting such a crappy design for such a life depending circuit.
Per ohms law (I'm an Ex Navy Electronics Technician):
I = E(squared)/R -- I=Current, E=voltage ... translation:
I=144/10 which is 14.4 AMPS!!!!!
That cheap push button switch has 14 AMPs shunted through it. Any sort of weakness in ANY part of the wires, connectors, or switch will cause the familiar "click... click".
Shame on Yanmar for putting such a crappy design for such a life depending circuit.
Yes... Use that one [grin]. I think that is the one I actually bought, come to think of it.
and to make matters worse Hunter has something like 11 connections between the + and - post of the batteries in the starter solenoid circuit. I neutered my engine harness to remove all the quick connects. Don't need them unless you change your engine often . I also found the instruments now read more in line with what I thought they should and have not had a starter problem in over 4 years
Are you sure about that calculation? Ohms Law > Current = Voltage / Resistance. 12 V/10 ohms = 1.2 Amps.
Yup, good catch. You are correct [blushing]... So much for my memory of Ohms Law [grin]. Still, even at the corrected 1.2 AMPS, having a relay or solenoid seems to cure the "click click".
on my old 2GM20 F the start circuit voltage traveled up from battery, into a cockpit pushbutton switch on the "B" panel , back down into starter solenoid. after 10 years the start button on B panel was only intermittent. Myanmar suggested wiring a separate high quality circuit between battery and starter solenoid using a 'momentary' switch, which would parallel the outside helm B panel. due to the short wiring run, the Mo switch circuit had very small voltage drop compared to the long run up and back to cockpit.