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Replacement of soles in a 1983 H31

Discussion in 'Mid-Size Boats' started by SFS, Aug 15, 2016. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. HMT2

    HMT2

    Joined Mar 20, 2014
    543 posts, 108 likes
    Hunter 31
    US Shoreacres, TX
    Ray I primarily used a Dewalt five inch random orbital sander for the first sanding and then a Dewalt 1/4 sheet palm sander for the 150 and 220 grit. I tilted the edge of the sander on the front side then the back side to get into the edges then hand sanded with a piece of sandpaper between the edges. I then epoxied them front and back then varnished the top and sides like I did the sole. I am a "git er done" kind of guy so I didn't worry about the shoulder of each slat. They turned out nicely. Jury is till out about adding a little non-skid to another coat of varnish. The off shore race I do next month will give me some more information about that issue.
     


  2. SFS

    SFS

    Joined Aug 18, 2015
    1,432 posts, 422 likes
    Hunter 31
    US Tampa Bay
    So there are places between boards (where the top boards contact the bottom boards) that didn't get epoxy? Did you spend much time trying to brush epoxy down the sides of the top boards, over the shoulders and down the sides?

    What I really want to do is to take them completely apart and refinish each board individually, but without a jig I'd be afraid of messing up the dimensions. So, I guess I'll just see how it goes, and start with the one in the head, which is the least frequently seen. I'm also considering skipping the epoxy step for these.
     


  3. HMT2

    HMT2

    Joined Mar 20, 2014
    543 posts, 108 likes
    Hunter 31
    US Shoreacres, TX
    Yeah, I struggled with whether to epoxy them or not, after all its teak! But just to have a consistent finish I did it. I did epoxy and varnish the sides of the slats as best I could not worrying too much about drips on the back side.
     


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  4. pateco

    pateco

    Joined Aug 12, 2014
    1,933 posts, 485 likes
    Hunter 31 (1983)
    US Pompano Beach FL
    I still havn't gotten around to doing this on the Stargazer, but was wondering if anyone had tried anything other than plywood? Refinishing a whole section of my sole, and then having it destroyed by a hot water tank leak, has got me thinking about ways to do it with waterproof materials, and maybe a faux teak or mahogany and holly finish. My Dock neighbor just redid his floors on his Catalina 36 in standard marine ply with LonSeal, and it looks really nice.

    I was thinking some sort of waterproof underlayment, and then using
    Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Marine Flooring - Mahogany & Holly

    Lonseal Mahogany and Holly.jpg

    I am looking for inexpensive suggestions for a strong waterproof undelayment to use with this. It has to support the weight and span of these floors.
     


  5. SFS

    SFS

    Joined Aug 18, 2015
    1,432 posts, 422 likes
    Hunter 31
    US Tampa Bay
    At $40 for a 1' by 6' piece (72" width sold by the linear foot), I wouldn't call that stuff inexpensive.
     


  6. pateco

    pateco

    Joined Aug 12, 2014
    1,933 posts, 485 likes
    Hunter 31 (1983)
    US Pompano Beach FL


  7. Manly

    Manly

    Joined Jan 3, 2018
    34 posts, 12 likes
    Hunter 31
    Odyssey US St. Petersburg
    This thread has been informative, especially the part about removing the sole around the galley and aft berth as that is the part my wife and I haven't done yet.

    For the record, here are a few pictures of us changing the cabin sole in the middle of the boat, which was all rotted out when we bought our Hunter 31 August, 2017 and one of our first projects.

    I used plywood coated with polyurethane and vinyl planking (purchased at Home Depot). That vinyl planking is essentially plastic and impervious to water.

    We used only two sections of flooring. I templated the old rotten wood and that was how it was done originally. However, SFS, I saw you did it in 3 sections and that is probably a better idea so you can lift out the entire middle. Mine has a cutout I can lift for access to the bilge in the same place as the original, which is not a huge access area.

    We also painted the primary bulkhead at the same time. In these pictures it just has the first coats of Kilz applied.

    Oh, one other thing, in the picture, "Under Settee Cabinets," that vertical board on the right (the port settee support board) I also replaced and put access doors in the hallway so we can get in there without going through the seats.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
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