Removing shaft coupler

[gettinthere]

Time to replace the cutlass bearing. On my boat, that means removing the shaft. Which means removing the coupler. It was last off in 2009. It may come off easy, but in 2009 I had to cut it off and I'm hoping to not face that again.
If it is recalcitrant I plan on placing a socket in-between the end of the shaft and the transmission flange and SLOWLY tighten a set of fine thread hardened bolts to get the shaft coupler to pop off. I'm going to mix a 50/50 blend of ATF and acetone for loosening parts.
Just saw a comment that the 'socket on the shaft' trick could bend the flange. Well maybe, If I had godzilla on the wrenches.

Thoughts?

 

[907Juice]

I wouldn’t use anything that requires banging or hitting. There are some good YouTube vids and forums on how to change one with all thread, a big socket, and a small socket. You tighten slowly and it should come out. It can also help to make some relief cuts with a sawzall. But I wouldn’t do that unless you’re good with a saw. It can do a lot of damage. I’ll see if I have any pics of when I did mine.

 

[Maine Sail]

Just saw a comment that the 'socket on the shaft' trick could bend the flange. Well maybe, If I had godzilla on the wrenches.

Thoughts?

Doesn't take Godzilla when that flange is aligned to 0.003"... Please be very careful using this technique. Oh and don't bother with the acetone ATF mix BTDT and does not work nearly as well on non-scientifically rusted parts as that article makes it sound. PB Blaster and keep it away from the transmission output seal!!!

This boater was very lucky he broke the shaft flange and not the gear box flange. Despite his gear box flange not physically breaking, it was now severely out of true. The only way to fix the bent gear flange was to do a gear box tear down & rebuild.

Despite the gear box output flange not breaking, it still cost $1750.00 to fix the bent gear box output flange. Remember these flanges are going to be aligned to 0.003″. It does not take a lot of force to bend the output flange by 0.003″.

If the coupling does not come off fairly easily you can cut the coupling just over the key way as seen in the photo above. Creating the cut, at the keyway, will ensure that you don’t damage the shaft. Once cut it will relieve the pressure and the coupling will then come off.

IMPORTANT: Cutting a coupling this way takes tremendous patience and will cover the interior of your vessel with iron/steel dust. Once moist/humid air sets in it will turn everything it landed on into a rusty looking mess. The better option is to simply cut the non-ferrous brass or stainless shaft.

If you can’t get an angle grinder in there to cut the coupling you will likely need to cut the shaft. Not all couplings will come off so PLEASE don’t ruin your transmission in the process.

 

[907Juice]

Don’t force ANYTHING!!!! It should come out easy or you’re doing it wrong.

 

[svchickadee]

On my irwin 41 I used wood dowels of various lengths between the shaft end and transmission. I tightened the four bolts to compress the dowel and then hit the coupler with a rubber mallet. The hit would free up the coupler on the shaft to move a little. Took several hours but it worked.

 

[Ken Cross]

I used a puller made from 1/2 inch steel plate and some fine threaded bolts. It was tough and I added heat from a propane torch. It worked and didn't warp the flange. I even reused it. To reinstall I had to clean up the faying surfaces with fine sand paper and heat the coupling to about 350f.

Doing it this way there was no chance of transmission damage.

Ken

 

[DArcy]

When I pulled the shaft I used the socket between the flanges trick and torqued each screw a little at a time. I didn't have any problem re-aligning after but looking at Main Sail's post maybe I just got lucky. My flange didn't seems to be very difficult to move so probably just not corroded on as much.

 

[gettinthere]

Doesn't take Godzilla when that flange is aligned to 0.003"... Please be very careful using this technique. Oh and don't bother with the acetone ATF mix BTDT and does not work nearly as well on non-scientifically rusted parts as that article makes it sound. PB Blaster and keep it away from the transmission output seal!!!

This boater was very lucky he broke the shaft flange and not the gear box flange. Despite his gear box flange not physically breaking, it was now severely out of true. The only way to fix the bent gear flange was to do a gear box tear down & rebuild.

Despite the gear box output flange not breaking, it still cost $1750.00 to fix the bent gear box output flange. Remember these flanges are going to be aligned to 0.003″. It does not take a lot of force to bend the output flange by 0.003″.

If the coupling does not come off fairly easily you can cut the coupling just over the key way as seen in the photo above. Creating the cut, at the keyway, will ensure that you don’t damage the shaft. Once cut it will relieve the pressure and the coupling will then come off.

IMPORTANT: Cutting a coupling this way takes tremendous patience and will cover the interior of your vessel with iron/steel dust. Once moist/humid air sets in it will turn everything it landed on into a rusty looking mess. The better option is to simply cut the non-ferrous brass or stainless shaft.

If you can’t get an angle grinder in there to cut the coupling you will likely need to cut the shaft. Not all couplings will come off so PLEASE don’t ruin your transmission in the process.

MS:
BTDT???

You may recall my epic battle with the first coupler in 2009 on that other forum! I ended up drilling a series of holes into the coupler on top of the key and it eventually split with a bit of leverage. Hoping to not have to do that. I used to live 3 miles from Marine Machining so "that was easy"!!
What should my first easiest safest attempt be?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Small wedges welded to a C-clamp should work without damaging shaft, coupling or trans.

 

[gettinthere]

Don’t force ANYTHING!!!! It should come out easy or you’re doing it wrong.

Not at all what I have...no strut. My cutlass bearing is at the end of the keel and the shaft must come out.

 

[RoyS]

Algonquin shaft puller. Cost about $40. I bought one but have not had to use it yet. Looks promising to me.

 

[seadaddler]

I used Mainsails info on his web site and some heat from a small torch and a hammer around the coupler and after a while it came off and used it back on and been working great a few years
nice and smooth running.
Nick

 

[gettinthere]

I used Mainsails info on his web site and some heat from a small torch and a hammer around the coupler and after a while it came off and used it back on and been working great a few years
nice and smooth running.
Nick

I did not realize he had a dissertation on that topic. I'll take another look. Thnx


I looked but didn't see coupler removal. Saw the new shaft piece but I didn't see coupler removal. What did I miss?
Thanks

 

[twalker H260]

Here is an idea that might help. If you have a bit of space.

https://www.pbase.com/bartenderdave/couppuller

 

[John L]

View attachment 162334 Algonquin shaft puller. Cost about $40. I bought one but have not had to use it yet. Looks promising to me.

I have this puller for sale at half the price. Reply to jmjleb@comcast.net

 

[DayDreamer41]

Here is the best stuff that I have ever used to loosen things that get tight over time, I have undone 10 year old rusty muffler clamp nuts with the stuff, it truly is amazingly effective, not cheap but effective.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

+1 on kroil it’s what I have on the boat.

 

[Mikem]

Yep. Kroil. Good stuff.

 

[seadaddler]

What I did to remove coupler from shaft something like TH only I took the couplers apart and put proper size socket in between and than long bolts like what TH showing but I think I still
needed som heat and hitting around coupler with mallet or hammer.
Yes it still did not come off easy and took lots time but the coupler came off and was able to reinstall coupler back on and everything been good for many years.
Got the idea from Mainsail’s web site and also how to remove cutless bearing.
Nick

 

[DayDreamer41]

In preparation for installing a PSS dripless packing and replacing the cutless bearing while I am at it, I purchased a split coupling, this will allow me to split/cut the shaft coupling and replace it with a new coupling so I won't have to deal with the difficulties reinstalling or separating the coupling in the future.