Rebedding fixed portlights

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Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Today I removed both of the large fixed portlights on port and stbrd of our 1995 Hunter 40.5. I have scraped the fiberglass clean and have started work on the plexiglass. My question is what is the best way to completely remove all the sealant from the plexiglass without scratching it?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,667
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Today I removed both of the large fixed portlights on port and stbrd of our 1995 Hunter 40.5. I have scraped the fiberglass clean and have started work on the plexiglass. My question is what is the best way to completely remove all the sealant from the plexiglass without scratching it?
The sealant used for those dead lights was silicone. The only way to ensure the surfaces are not still contaminated is to sand them clean. Tape off the area you don't need cleaned then wet sand off any silicone contamination. Run them under water and if any water beads up they are not clean enough. Silicone will not stick to a silicone contaminated surface and they will only leak again if not properly prepped and cleaned. Use a product like Dow 795, or similar, to rebed them but be very careful not to touch the surfaces with dirty fingers etc., when re-assembling after cleaning them.

When re-installing you'll want some sort of spacer to leave about 1/16th to 1/8" of sealant between the fiberglass and the port light. This will allow for the expansion / contraction differences between the GRP and acrylic.
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Thanks, Maine Sail. After trying to clean the plexiglass yesterday the Skipper and I decided that we are just going to replace the plexiglass since they are both pretty crazed. You mention Dow 795 as the product to use. Where do you find it?

Thanks,
POTL
 
Apr 19, 2010
1
Cape Dory CD 25 Clear Lake
Two products you can try depending on how badly glazed your plex is; first, 3M makes a fiberglas polish/restorer that I think comes in a white/green or white/blue bottle and can be purchased at any West Marine. Works pretty good magic. Use it on friends' cars all time to restore their glazed/crazed headlight covers. Second, an aviation product called "Micro Mesh" is a multi-step product and something of a pain to use. Can obtain it from most pilot shops or Sporty's Pilot Shop. Try the 3M product first, tho.
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Thnaks Maine Sail. I did try the 3M product on the plexiglass last year and while there was some improvement it was not much. I appreicate the link about the Dow product. Thank you.
 
Jul 27, 2009
2
Hunter Legend 37 Milwaukee, WI
Replaced the milk-white skylights on my Legend 37 with 3/8" Bronze Lexan last fall. I used Dow 995, but only sealed around the edges of the new lenses, since the Lexan needs to be able to expand and contract. I purchased the 995 from ebay, but don't recall the seller. The cost of a tube was about $15.
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
That's a good idea. The old portlights that I took off were sealed around the edges and sealed to the hull in the middle of the two portlight openings. Based on your comment perhaps I might dispense with that step. It does make sense to me.
 
Jan 22, 1999
62
Hunter 35 PENSACOLA, FL
Hunter Re-bed

Hunter has a bunch of sailboats with fixed sky lites,
Just finished re-bedding my four lexan set ins.
I used Dow Coning 732 as the sealer.
This 732 is a new product that is superior to the 79X family for one reason.
Shelf life.
My tube of DC 732 does not expire until May of 2012.
The DC family of 79X sealant would only last about 4 to 5 months if you were lucky to get a new tube.

Broad Reach
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Re: Hunter Re-bed

The recommendations seems to be for the DOW product but I am wondering if there is any reason to not use LifeSeal product? Any thoughts on that?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,667
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
The recommendations seems to be for the DOW product but I am wondering if there is any reason to not use LifeSeal product? Any thoughts on that?
Polysulfides attack the plasticizers in the plastics and will eventually ruin them. Dow 795 and the others are specifically engineered to be "structural" silicones. where basic marine silicones are not.

Tony D'andrea the owner of Select Plastics, which is the largest hatch & port repair facility in the world, only recommends three products. Dow 795, GE SG 4000 and Sikaflex 295 UV with the special primer. Tony is the guru of marine plastics and has worked in the industry for his entire life.

Here is a direct quote from Tony:

Tony D'andrea said:
I hear the question as to which sealant to use when bonding Acrylic, or Polycarbonate to aluminum, stainless or FRP over and over and over.....


Well here goes... The only three adhesives I would consider using are Sika Flex 295 UV with the primer, GE SG-4000, and Dow 795. Using the correct adhesive is only 1/2 the battle. Do not apply the sealants below 50 degrees F. The temperature must maintain at least 50F during the entire 21 day cure cycle. Cut this corner and your finished before you start. Preparation of the bond area is also very/ very important. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOND AREA WITH YOUR BARE HANDS! Contamination from the dirt and skin oils will make a solid cure impossible. You may clean the FRP and metal with acetone to prep the area but if you touch the Lexan or Plexi with harsh solvents you will ruin the portlight. A 50/50 mix of isopropal alcohol and distilled water will work well to clean the plastic if needed. Remember that clean enough is not clean enough.

Some more interesting reading on Acrylic vs. Polycarbonate:


Tony D'andrea said:
Acrylic -vs- Polycarbonate
Consider the Following:


All major hatch, portlight and window manufacturers use Acrylic in offshore / bluewater marine products.

Acrylic is more scratch resistant than standard (9034) polycarbonate.

Acrylic is significantly more durable when exposed to Ultra Violet radiation (sunlight).

Acrylic is less expensive than Polycarbonate.

Don't misunderstand my preference for acrylic. I buy, use and sell a significant amount of both products and each has its application. In my humble opinion Acrylic is more durable, versatile and cost effective in the hands of a skilled craftsman than polycarbonate.

Additional considerations may include polycarbonate with UV and scratch resistant coatings. While these products are heavily promoted by several manufacturers and carry 5, 10 even 15 year warranties the following information has been reported in "real life"applications:

Polycarbonate is impact resistant. When its new it is almost impossible to break.

Small quantities (less than a 4 by 8) in gauges over 1/8th inch are difficult to to find in the uv/scratch resistant grades.

Colors are limited. Only two standards (gray and bronze). Try and find anything thicker than 1/4 in UV/ scratch resistant!

Polycarbonate foreshortens when subject to static or dynamic loads. What this means is if you replace your hatch lens with polycarb, seal it and then step on it the ductile material will deflect (bow) in the center. One of two things may happen. 1st you will surely break the watertight seal, 2nd you may end up with a leg in your galley.

As for the warranty: The original owner is warranted against failure subject to the material being submitted to the distributor for evaluation with the original invoice subject to actual replacement cost at the time of purchase. I guess this means they sell you a new square of material and apply the old payment to the new cost. How about the labor to fabricate the part, install it and sealant? Why take the chance?

Polycarbonate is a great material, The US Air force uses it for fighter canopies! I sell Polycarb to the USCG and US Navy. Remember they don't mind using it because we are paying to replace it every three years.
Both Acrylic and Polycarbonate have specific uses and installation requirements.

Cast Acrylic (of a specific thickness) is in accordance with CE and ABYC guidelines, and installed on virtually all of the big blue water sail boats produced on both sides of the pond. Polycarbonate is commonly used as a replacement due to its ease of fabrication and incredible initial strength. The USCG and USN require Polycarbonate on their vessels but they also have a PM cycle of 36 to 42 months for change out. My Tax dollars at work...

Due to its ductility Polycarbonate it is more challenging to install. I have seen Sika Flex 295UV with primer and Dow 795 both mentioned. I use and recommend both. Don't go over 4 ft continuous length with a fixed portlight. Remember the coefficient of thermal expansion for Acrylic and Polycarbonate is in the neighborhood of .000039 per inch per degree F. That means an 8ft plastic port will expand and contract up to 1/2 of an inch from the coldest day in Feb to the hottest day in summer. WOW!! Compartmentalize the job. It will be easier to install and less prone to leaks.

Never ever bolt a plastic portlight in place. Screws are fine to hold a lens till the adhesive cures. Take them out asap and fill the holes with the aforementioned products. Both of these products are rated at 700 + percent elongation before tear. Strong flexible and UV resistant. Kinda like me!

Been to a boat show lately? Seen any screws? Glass is good so long as your boat does not twist or torque. Show me a fiberglass boat that does not twist and I will show you a cocktail barge tied to the dock.
 

kebr

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Jun 26, 2009
43
Hunter 40.5 New Buffalo, MI
I would be interested in hearing how the replacement goes. Can you also share where you end up getting the portlights fabricated and what material you end up using. Sounds like Select Plastics makes a strong case for acrylic. Mine are crazed too and I would like to replace them at some point.
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
The ports have been out off the boat for several years. I had planned on painting the deck with two part paint before rebedding new ports. Is that a good plan or would I be better off installing the ports first?
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
My husband found a place in Minneapolis that did the portlights. Each piece is over 5 ft long and we had them done in 5/16 acrylic. The guy that did them did a great job on the beveled edge. We compared and they were identical to the old ones in size and shape. The install of the new went well. The hull surface had been scraped and sanded clean. I wiped the fiberglass down with acetone before applying the sealant. As suggested we used the Dow Corning 795. Great stuff. We put the windows in place, shimmed them up and they never moved. Captain Grumpy taped them snugly in place and then we tarped over them and left them to cure until we go up the week after next. I will finish off the seal on the outside edge then. I can't wait to see how nice the new windows look!
 
Feb 10, 2007
213
Hunter Legend 40.5 Coconut Grove, FL
Hello Princess, Would you mind sharing how much for the Acrylic portlights?? I wonder if he kept a mold for your fellow 40.5ers? Same color?
Thank you..
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,138
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
On The Left Coast, Marco...

Hello Princess, Would you mind sharing how much for the Acrylic portlights?? I wonder if he kept a mold for your fellow 40.5ers? Same color?
Thank you..
... we paid about $2500 for new fixed and opening ports and forward hatch acrylic installed. They don't mold them as such, rather induce curvature in an oven. I asked and got USA made cast acrylic in very slightly thicker stock. About the same color. It did not include the hull fixed ports nor the opening ports in the aft cabin which were in good shape. Also did not include the sliding companionway hatch which is OK and the fixed ports under the line hangers in the cockpit which are covered with line all the time. He used Dow 795 to install.
 
Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Marco-
For the two pieces we had cut it was $350 with tax. The color is just a little lighter than the original and just a tad thicker.
 
Feb 10, 2007
213
Hunter Legend 40.5 Coconut Grove, FL
Thank you Princess,
Let me know when you go sailing how they work out, perhaps I'll get a couple of them for my end of the year proyects...
 

Clark

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Jun 30, 2004
886
Hunter 280 Lake Guntersville, AL
We may have to do this soon for our 1996 280. While thinking through the reinstallation process; what technique did you guys use to initially guide the "window" into position and what thickness of shims are required for the sealant . . . 1/16, 1/8, 3/16??
 
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