Rebedding chainplates

[karellen]

We've been getting a lot of rain lately and I've been getting a fairly significant amount of water on the port side interior of my Hunter 310. I'm not 100% certain because of limited visibility, but it looks to be coming from the chainplate.

With the B&R rig, is it possible to safely rebed the chainplates with the rig still up? I've seen it done on other boats where a halyard is used as a temporary stay.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Take a photo of it to refresh my memory. I introduced the boat for Hunter years ago as a dealer but memory is rusty now being an old fart.

 

[kloudie1]

Yes, but.... since you have no backstay, you have to consider replacing the support from the aft stay.. If you tie off the halyard a foot or so aft of the chainplate (I think there is a cleat there) then you'll be OK. You won't need to "gorilla" tighten the halyard, just snug it well. . first mark the threads of the turnbuckles so you can return them to the positions they were in.. slack all the turnbuckles equally, after the halyard is tied off.. do it in stages so ya don't have one side trying to pull the others down.. slack them just enough to get the pins out of the halyard tensioned side.. re-bed that side.. replace pins but do not retighten .. move halyard to other side and tension it and re-bed the other side.. then pins back in and tighten the turnbuckles back in stages to the marked lines.. If you have a roller furled jib, remove it before the work to help unload the mast.
Before doing this, be sure the water isn't coming in from a side port-light and draining out the liner close to the chainplate.

 

[Terry Cox]

We've been getting a lot of rain lately and I've been getting a fairly significant amount of water on the port side interior of my Hunter 310. I'm not 100% certain because of limited visibility, but it looks to be coming from the chainplate.

Hi Karellen, I'm assuming that your H310 is built similar to our P42 and our previous boat an H28. The standing rigging is attached to a SS fixture that is secured to the deck. That plate/fixture is attached to a SS rod that extends through the deck, into the cabin and down to the inside of the hull where it is attached to a bracket that is laid into the FRP hull. If water is passing through the deck plate and down to that hull bracket, and has been for some time, you need to have that inspected. I've seen a report where corrosion from water intrusion weakened that bracket to the point of rig failure. Ours does not leak and remains dry.

Intent here is to make sure where the water is going and whether it is having any affect upon the boat's rigging system. Have the rigging system checked by a certified rigger, or at least check that bracket yourself before re-bedding

 

[Dan_Y]

On our '080 h36 had water coming in at the chainplate (I thought) but was actually coming in through a screw that holds the rub rail on next to the chainplate and also through the deck to hull seam that didn't have enough glue to seal the seam. There are two places where I have calked the seam and am trying to figure out how to get to a 3rd leak in the transom area. My dealer told me it was not an uncommon occurrence. BTW our chain plates bolt thru the hull oh the side and also has the rod through the deck.

 

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[Ken13559]

when my starboard chainplate broke 1 of 2 bolts, I used mains halyard and topping lift in place of shrouds. Removed both chsinplates for repair and checks.
rebed them with butyl tape. No leaks.