Protect Stainless

May 21, 2014
106
Hunter H44 Toronto
the salt water environment is already showing on our stainless. What is suggested as protection? Wax, oil???? Thanks.
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
Flitz is what we have used. It's pretty simple, some clean cotton diaper or tee shirt rags. Really makes a difference.
 
  • Like
Likes: wyctoronto

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
There are products that both clean off the rust, and then passivate the stainless steel surface, which prevents rust for a long time. They are acid based. The one I have the most experience with is Wichinox. It works extremely well. It's a paste, you apply it, let it sit sit for 10 to 20 minutes, then rinse it off with fresh water. The one I'm going to try this Spring is Citrisurf 2310 gel. It's a gel that you spray on and then rinse off, similar to Wichinox, but much less expensive per unit volume, and perhaps easier and quicker to apply.

Passivation is a process of creating a thin, clear, oxide layer to the surface of stainless. This prevents corrosion very effectively. It does not affect the appearance of polished stainless.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Bar Keepers Friend stocked at your local grocery store does wonders cleaning up SS.
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I have used Spotless Stainless and it does work well. CitriSurf 2310 appears to be exactly the same product and works the same at less than half the price. Both products work best at higher temperatures. If the outside temp is not at least 75 degrees, don't waste the product.
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I think the same temps are needed for Spotless Stainless. Both products have the same look and effectiveness. I have used both and now I just use the CitriSurf due to the price advantage. Remember that if the overnight temps aren't at least 70-75 degrees, the metal may not warm up enough during the day for the product to be effective.
 
Jun 11, 2011
1,243
Hunter 41 Lewes
Rich, that's funny, I thought it was my imagination. I use Spotless Stainless and it seems to work much better in the 80 degree temps than the 70's. I try to wait for an 85 degree overcast day to apply. It dries slower and I think works best. Also you can hang on deck a long time if it's cloudy.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,665
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Good quality stainless does not require any protection but may require an occasional re-passivation with a good quality citric acid treatment (you can't easily get nitric acid).

The one I'm going to try this Spring is Citrisurf 2310 gel. It's a gel that you spray on and then rinse off, similar to Wichinox, but much less expensive per unit volume, and perhaps easier and quicker to apply.
I have used a gallon of the stuff, it did not work very well at all for me, at least nowhere near as fast or as well as Spotless Stainless does. I have also tried the 2210 and there was not a huge difference between the two, but I would give the edge to 2310. I even did a port side /starboard side test, using 2310, and the Spotless Stainless won hands down. I thought it may be close to Spotless Stainless but it is not, neither was the 2210. SS is a bit more than 2310 but it works faster and seems to leave a better shine than the 2310 or 2210 do. I played with an entire gallon comparing it to Spotless Stainless hoping it would work as well, because it is less money, but that is not what I found.

As mentioned any of these products work best when kept wet/moist and with temps over 80F. Best bet is a warm, humid overcast day. It works really well in fog and over 80F. I will occasionally drape a damp microfiber rag over it to keep it moist.

Passivation is a process of creating a thin, clear, oxide layer to the surface of stainless. This prevents corrosion very effectively. It does not affect the appearance of polished stainless.
It should be noted that only citric acid and nitric acid are for passivating stainless. Other acids may appear to work, for a short time, but they harm the finish and make them more prone to rust.

Repeated treatments with Spotless Stainless also tend to prolong the time in-between surface spots of rust reappearing. I am now down to 1 treatment every two years. For being on a mooring, without the ability to routinely wash off salt spray, this is quite good.

Our Hook-Knife - Spotless Stainless - BEFORE:


Brush It On & Wait:


Rinse It Off - AFTER:



This stuff is not fun to polish by hand:


 
Feb 14, 2014
7,399
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
It should be noted that only citric acid and nitric acid are for passivating stainless
I did look this up.
Sorry I rarely disagree with MaineSail but..
https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/how-to-passivate-stainless-steel-parts
seems to confirm what he said. Until you read this excerpt
"There is no universal agreement on the precise mechanics of how passivation works"
Say What? Twilight zone chemistry? Passivation means no more corrosion, sorry but welcome to boating.

If you want maximum corrosion protection...
Let Stainless Oxidize and DON'T clean it. Iron Oxide, Iron Citrate, Iron Nitrate are OXIDATION products of FE.
They will all NOT further Oxidize or Corrode let them alone.
You are wasting your money to pacify.

Next season, polish it up for impressing everyone.

Do not be confused with shop treatment of Stainless to show a pretty display in a package. [ Iron Citrate is not red or a visible stain]
Once you remove your Oxidation protection corrosion barrier, the process starts over again and again and again.
Jim...
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
We started using a spider spray on all of the stainless railing and rigging to keep the webs off. It works pretty well, but am I harming my SS long term? Are some safer than others and still work? It's really nice to come out to a web-free boat. Sorry Spiderman!
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
I believe that there are two issues with SS that overlap: i) Passivity treatment, which may (or may not) be necessary wear some "rust" appears ; and ii) actually getting the clean, polished luster of the finished SS. I've found that with quality SS that we've had, the polish solves both problems. The passivity treatments I believe won't provide the same longer term shine but can remove some "rust" spots resulting from the milling/fabrication process.

I haven't come across, though I've heard of problems for some, with SS that doesn't benefit from a quality polish. Like I've noted, we use Flitz, but there are others that last to varying degrees and cost somewhat less per initial treatment.
 
  • Like
Likes: JamesG161
Jan 4, 2006
6,444
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.