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Pressure washer damage to teak?

Discussion in 'Catalina 30' started by kbgunn, Jun 7, 2018. Add this thread to a FAQ

  1. Mark Maulden

    Mark Maulden

    Joined Jan 25, 2011
    1,583 posts, 128 likes
    S2 11.0A
    US Anacortes, WA
    My concern with fillers would be the expansion/contraction differences between the two. If you make the decision to get to virgin wood, and the piece is flat, you might try a planar if one is available. Saves a lot of sanding..

    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  2. Parsons


    Joined Jul 12, 2011
    535 posts, 153 likes
    Catalina 36
    US Bay City, MI
    @kbgunn -- thank you so much for giving us updates on your project! Refinishing teak is a fairly common, and nasty, task. Your before and after photos are going to be invaluable, not only for the few people following this thread now, but for the person that tries to do a similar task 10-years from now and can search for this.

  3. kbgunn


    Joined Sep 19, 2017
    70 posts, 28 likes
    Catalina 1986 30 TR
    4410 US Lake Lewisville
    A quick update....I applied 8-10 thin coats of teak oil "finish" with a disposable brush over several days. Teak oil finish, as I understand it now, is a mixture of linseed or tung oil, varnish and mineral spirits. So it builds up similar to using varnish alone.

    I'm planning to start on the companionway boards next. I found this approach using epoxy and varnish while google-ing.

    These videos make the process look no more difficult than applying coats of teak oil. It should make a good comparison with the two finishes being next to each other exposed to the same elements.

    jviss and Parsons like this.
  4. chrisings


    Joined Nov 14, 2013
    236 posts, 16 likes
    Catalina 30 MkI 1983 TRBS
    US Westbrook, CT
    I see I'm late to the party but.....when we purchased Trinity 5 years ago the teak looked very similar. I wire brushed as much finished as I could off, cleaned with a commercial teak cleaner and then applied 10 coats of Epifanes Rapid Clear. Wasn't perfect but it's held up fairly well. This is the first year I've had to do some sanding and touch up.

  5. T_Cat


    Joined Aug 8, 2014
    306 posts, 63 likes
    Catalina 22 1987 New Design. 14133 "LadyHawke"
    US Modesto CA
    Congratz on the +8 feet.
    She looks awesome, I'm envious, wish I could take that step with a new boat.
    Till them I love my 22

  6. jssailem


    Joined Oct 22, 2014
    5,575 posts, 1,875 likes
    CAL 35 Cruiser
    US Salem, Moored Port Everett WA
    I see that he epoxy and varnishes 5 sides, leaving the bottom of the board uncovered. Is this a common practice? Do you varnish the bottom of seats in your boat?

  7. kbgunn


    Joined Sep 19, 2017
    70 posts, 28 likes
    Catalina 1986 30 TR
    4410 US Lake Lewisville
    Good question...This is my first rodeo with exterior teak. I was planning to refinish the exposed side leaving the hidden side against the fiberglass unfinished. I would expect that to be a good approach. I don't have teak seats with exposed undersides on my boat, but if I did I would finish them to protect from the elements.

  8. jssailem


    Joined Oct 22, 2014
    5,575 posts, 1,875 likes
    CAL 35 Cruiser
    US Salem, Moored Port Everett WA
    The questions persists.
    1. The bottom of the seat is not exposed to direct sunlight. It would be exposed to reflective light. Do UV rays (the damage causing rays) bounce of the deck and cause sun damage to the underside of a teak seat?
    2. Does leaving the teak open to the elements allow it to breath?
    3. Since water runs down hill do to gravity will water get to the underside of the teak seat to cause damage?

  9. Daveinet


    Joined Sep 20, 2014
    848 posts, 139 likes
    Rob Legg RL24
    US Chain O'Lakes
    If one side is wet, and the other side is dry, the wood will warp. Wet wood expands. Even humidity will do that.

  10. kbgunn


    Joined Sep 19, 2017
    70 posts, 28 likes
    Catalina 1986 30 TR
    4410 US Lake Lewisville
    I removed the companionway boards and put temporary 1/4" plywood in it's place. The top piece overlaps the bottom piece by 2" for water shedding if it rains.

    I started sanding the boards with the belt sander and 80 grit to get down to good wood. I had to remove between an 1/8" - 3/16" of material on the weathered exterior side. Yikes! The interior side just needed light sanding to remove the old finish. Here is a side by side comparison of sanded and un-sanded.

    A couple of challenges here:
    - The boards have a routed lip on bottom to mate with the board below it. The lip cracked on the left board. I Gorilla Glued it for strength.

    -The teak looks to be a veneer and has chipped in a few places. You can see the board on the left has two spots. I'm thinking teak dust with glue or epoxy as a filler. Leaning towards epoxy since I'm planning to coat these with epoxy before varnish.

    -The board on the right was joined with silicone caulk by a PO (to keep it from leaking????) and held together structurally be a wooden brace brad nailed on the back side. The caulk failed. I'm planning to epoxy these board together as a more permanent solution. Then epoxy then entire board before varnish.

    I read that normal two-part epoxy can yellow and blush so I've order a special clear, non-blush hardener for this application. I'm open to any and all suggestions on this approach up until the first application of epoxy ;-)


  11. jssailem


    Joined Oct 22, 2014
    5,575 posts, 1,875 likes
    CAL 35 Cruiser
    US Salem, Moored Port Everett WA
    KBG and 1/8":yikes:. Maybe it is time for new boards.
    A great best friend, @LeslieTroyer, surprised me with new boards. Made of Iron Wood they are a sound replacement for my chipped plexiglass boards.
    Sometimes things on a boat just need to be replaced.

  12. BigEasy


    Joined Jun 21, 2004
    883 posts, 169 likes
    Beneteau 343
    US Slidell, LA
    Think you would get a better result following the method on the videos that you posted. This is kind of what I was referring to back when you started this discussion, when I recommended buildups with resin. You've got some very weathered teak that looks fairly decent after aggressively sanding. Just as the narrator in the video explained, with a couple coats of epoxy you're going to get a quick build that will fill and "level" the remaining irregularities in the weathered teak. Then coat 3 coats of your favorite varnish, cetol, etc. I think using the epoxy buildup method, especially on weathered teak, you're going to get a better result thats going to have better UV and moisture protection, and have a final finish that's going to have more depth and a much smoother surface. Also, with the epoxy base coats, you're going to prevent further loss of wood fibers. Even with the 8 coats of teak oil that you applied, there is still quite a bit of irregularity in the surfaces that you coated. Definitely looks better than what you started with; however, with the epoxy coatings, the irregularity in the surface would be eliminated. Teak oil would be applicable if the teak wasn't as weathered.

    Last edited: Jul 16, 2018 at 7:31 PM

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