PNW Cold Weather
- Thread starter Full Circle 473
- Start date
I use the same heater Terry posted (in the vberth blowing aft) as well as an air circulator (the ones they call dehumidifiers that aren't really) in the aft cabin. I also leave the two main hatches, vberth and main cabin, in their "cracked" position to allow the humid air to escape. I've been doing it this way for three years now with no humidity issues. The key if you leave a heater on is the ventilation to allow the humid air to escape.
The only exception was a couple years ago when it was in the teens at night for a week and never got above freezing during the day and then I left the diesel heater on low to keep the temp up. On a side note, I think that's the last time it was reliably running...good memories. If anyone thinks they can help with that (Espar Hydronic)...my post asking for help is here.
Brian
The only exception was a couple years ago when it was in the teens at night for a week and never got above freezing during the day and then I left the diesel heater on low to keep the temp up. On a side note, I think that's the last time it was reliably running...good memories. If anyone thinks they can help with that (Espar Hydronic)...my post asking for help is here.
Brian
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I have 2 small portlights opened a crack and there is a vent in the companion way hatch. My gauge said 35% RH. You may need some ventilation.
Thanks Gene, I left open two small port lights yesterday. Today I stopped by and the boat was dry and 44 degrees. Problem solved. Thanks everyone, this is quite a great system we have here!
Glad you solved the problem..do you have any dorade vents? I keep the boat closed up tight and turn one vent into prevailing winds and the other somewhat opposite. No heat down below and have zero moisture problems. If you have dorade vents, I'm wondering if judicious placements would substitute for opening the ports. Oh ya, i do have a two way vent in the aft cockpit combing going to 4" "dryer hoses" under the cockpit so there should be some ventilation going there..Bilge is clean and dry. I virtually have no moisture issues.....
I agree that the electric heater shown by Terry Cox is a good dependable heater, and as Stu Jackson said, using a heater doesnt have to be a worry if you build your confidence by knowing what you have and how to use it.
buy the heater and take it to the boat and spend the weekend with it running on high. and when you leave the boat turn it down to about half or a little less.... if it can run on high for 30 hours without overheating the wiring and blowing breakers, it can surly run at half throttle safely.... just make sure nothing can fall off the counter or settee onto the heater if the boat should experience some heavy wave action, and it should be fine
we have the WM model as shown by Terry, and we also have this one by honeywell, which i like better because it puts out more heat.. and although its taller, it has a low center of gravity and a bit wider base, so its stable wont tip over easily...
on our boat, I remove the lower companionway step and place the heater near the access so some of the heat goes towards the engine compartment (on the heat exchanger side) and some remains in the cabin.... doing this, we havent had problems in the two winters that the temps have dipped into the low 20's for a few days at a time, since we have owned the boat..
buy the heater and take it to the boat and spend the weekend with it running on high. and when you leave the boat turn it down to about half or a little less.... if it can run on high for 30 hours without overheating the wiring and blowing breakers, it can surly run at half throttle safely.... just make sure nothing can fall off the counter or settee onto the heater if the boat should experience some heavy wave action, and it should be fine
we have the WM model as shown by Terry, and we also have this one by honeywell, which i like better because it puts out more heat.. and although its taller, it has a low center of gravity and a bit wider base, so its stable wont tip over easily...
on our boat, I remove the lower companionway step and place the heater near the access so some of the heat goes towards the engine compartment (on the heat exchanger side) and some remains in the cabin.... doing this, we havent had problems in the two winters that the temps have dipped into the low 20's for a few days at a time, since we have owned the boat..
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In Everett also - and have a WM heater, oil filled "radiator" style and de-humidifier. I drain the humidifier to the sink (the only thru-hull I keep open). Haven't been to the boat in almost 2 weeks - getting the shakes.
I hate to say I'm not looking forward to getting the broken studs out of the block ( I didn't break them - they came free that way when I bought the boat). I did order a new alternator so hopefully it will fit without fabing up a new swing arm.
Les
Les
Terry I also heard about the wind issue from a weather man I follow. Said that a drop in pressure to the 972-978 mb level. This usually indicates a strong wind front leading the low pressure. Could be like last time. Depends on the way the front moves up the coast.
NOTE: as mentioned last week, some model runs indicate a POWERFUL WIND STORM moving up from the SW late Sun or early Mon, Jan 22,23. Center pressures range from 972-978 as the storm tracks directly over OR.
Bit of a late reply but here goes. Our yacht club does not permit forced air electric heaters to run unattended. On my Hunter 466 I use three WM round 100w dh units and one oil filled radiator. I set the radiator on medium (900 w) and the boat rarely dips below 53 degrees. With the weather warming somewhat I will dial it back to the low setting of 600 w. BTW the high setting is 1500w. I purchased the Pelonius unit from Home Depot for $40. Works great is and is widely used throughout our club.
Ok I can understand the concern of the forced air units. They use a resistance coil to produce heat. There is a potential fire danger if the coil burns through - shorts. What is the danger with the oil filled units? Are they really any safer?
much safer - in forced air - your relying on air flow to keep the internal parts ok - if any of the safety's fail (tip over over temp...) and airflow is limited (bearings obstructions) you will have major problems. Also if your too close to combustible stuff the FA can over heat the and start a fire that way. A oil unit can't get hot enough to cause a fire, even if in direct contact with combustible material.