Planning new "plastic" cabin sole for H37C.

[Ed Schenck]

Yes, I am with Bill on wondering exactly what product Frankie used. Especially since I cannot find a source of teak closer than the east coast. Jamestown Distr. wants $330. shipping for a 4x8x1/4 sheet that sells for $315.!

Tuesday I did some more work around the galley taking off the "baseboard". On the piece on the side of the sink I got the three screws out. On the piece under the stove one screw and had to drill out the other two. It was so hot and humid that I gave up, one to go under the drawers. My multi-tool was great for cutting close to the panels.

 

[Tld]

I apologize in advance for my computer illiteracy, but i wasnt sure if Ed and Bill were addressing frankiedogs or the pics I (tld) posted of the allure trafficmaster (cherry) flooring from home depot. Either way, at $2.09 per square foot i love it! It has held up excellent over the last year and a half glued directly over the fiberglass pan. As i am frequently wet, from swimming, and drip all over, i can attest to the waterproofness of this set up. Plastic glued to fiberglass, not much to go wrong

 

[readerbill]

TLD, I was referring you yours with, I just got confused I have the 33C and not the 37C. I do have a solid fiberglass pan under the plywood similar to what you guys are describing. Similar to Ed's question above, I am just uncertain if I get rid of the plywood if the fiberglass sub-floor will be strong enough with just the plastic laminate glued to it. The only other option I could think of is to repair the ply that is delaminating and glue the laminate over that. I have reservations there as well. Any thoughts.

 

[Tld]

Bill, on the 37c the original teak and holly ply is only 1/4" and doesnt add any structural strength to the floor. Its just a floor covering like carpet/tile etc. I would definatly suggest removing it verses going over the top. If the ply has any problems now, it will continue to delaminate under your new flooring and cause issues later. The ply does go under the cabinets bit cuts easily with a multi tool or a sharp chisel. Mine was siliconed down to the fiberglass pan and had finish nails at the seams. I tore it all out myself in a couple of hours including scraping the silicone residue off the fiberglass(which was the biggest pain). The only "problem" I ran into was that the 1/4" ply was glued well to the wood bilge covers and wouldnt just pull off like it does on the fiberglass. The easy remedy was just run it thru a friends planer.

 

[frankiedogs]

Guys, I haven't reaves mine yet. I am still doing other repairs and the flooring will be last for me.

 

[yoms1984]

Hi
My 84 Cutter sole is showing its age. I stop by the plastic flooring at HD often wondering how it will hold up. Based on what I've read, this might be a good project to work on. It has got to be replaced eventually. So, why not now. Thanks a lot.
btw: This is Ed Allen's old boat Windseeker. Still going strong.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Windseeker! Wow, how did you get it up there? Have sailed on her with Ed. Then had mine in her slip after Ed gave her up.

Still can't decide on the flooring. Went up Tuesday to tear out the old floor. Fortunately it was too hot to work. Saw samples of Lonseal and PlasTeak in the marina. They are so thin. Do I put them right on the fiberglass or put down marine plywoood first? New boats have it as a veneer on plywood but then they don't have a solid floor. Checked teak/holly prices, 4x8 for $313. but shipping was $330. So leaning toward PlasTeak glued right to the fiberglass.

 

[Jim Legere]

Hi
My 84 Cutter sole is showing its age. I stop by the plastic flooring at HD often wondering how it will hold up. Based on what I've read, this might be a good project to work on. It has got to be replaced eventually. So, why not now. Thanks a lot.
btw: This is Ed Allen's old boat Windseeker. Still going strong.

So are you and "newsguy1" one and the same? (Just trying to keep the database up to date...)

 

[sandpiper10471]

The original sole in my 37 is holding up well so far. However, my previous 33 had serious issues. I tore out the teak and holly (which on that boat did not go under any cabinets), cleaned off the silicone glue (worst part of the job), sanded the glass and applied a non-skid paint (similar to Kiwigrip). I saved the original sump covering board which provided enough "tradition" to keep her looking nice. The results were pleasing and it was easy to maintain. Far easier than applying new skins of plastic or wood.

 

[Daedalus]

I have a section of galley floor that looks just like the one in Ed's original post. When I bought the boat I noted that the galley flooring had some discoloration and would need attention at some stage. Then I started using ice in the icebox and the next day the floor was 'squelching' when I stepped on it. The hell?

Turns out that there is drain in the icebox (don't know if it's original or something a previous owner has done) that had a length of tube attached to drain to the bilge. Note the past tense "had". The tube had fallen off the drain, and water was running along the shelf under/behind the drawers and dripping down behind the skirting and soaking into the flooring.

Upshot is that I've pulled up about a 12" square in the corner and then stopped while I think about replacement materials. Tld's solution looks great!

Anyway, just thought I'd mention ... if any of you have a drain in your icebox, you might want to see of there's a tube missing. It was originally led out towards the bilge behind the cabinetry. Access was from the starboard cockpit lazarette, tucked right up in the gap between the icebox and the engine bay.


Aye

SV Astrid
La Cruz, Mexico
(failing to make progress towards Australia)

 

[Ed Schenck]

My water came from pin hole leaks in the muffler. Took me forever to discover source. Talked to Hunter rep at Newport boat show who suggested sticking with 1/4" using a laminate on marine plywood product. This might be a source: http://www.worldpanel.com/#!cabin-sole-options/ckov .

 

[Ed Schenck]

Well I did it, ordered the real teak and holly(4x8x1/4) from World Panel. Will begin by piecing in the part that I removed. I have a bilge hatch at home and a sample piece. A couple of coats of varnish and it is a pretty good match.

 

[Bolander]

As a new owner, I am considering options for cabin sole flooring as well.
Before I begin that project, I still need to know where the the water is coming from.
It sounds like it might be a design flaw that's common to the 37C's.
We have de-lamination in the galley floor.
My suspicion is that there is a cockpit scupper leak, but I really don't know.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Scupper leaks go in the bilge. Ice box melt will go on galley sole if hose to bilge is missing. Any water in starboard cockpit locker will definitely go to the galley sole. The shelf behind the icebox in that locker is the same surface as where the hot water tank sits behind the engine. So any water back there, a leaking muffler or hot water tank and hoses, will get to the galley. Finally the bilge hose goes out behind the stove. That water should go back into the bilge unless the leak is large. Then it might wet the galley sole.

 

[Bolander]

Thanks for your thorough reply Ed. I'll check all those spots. Hope it's just the icebox hose, but will check the muffler and hot water tank as well. Will post photos later as projects unfold.

 

[Blaise]

Twenty five years ago I replaced the cabin sole in Midnight Sun with 3/8" teak parque tile (12"x12"). It was simply epoxied down over the teak and holly veneer. Considering the way we sail my boat, it has held up amazingly well.

 

[Loyalist]

TL when you applied the Allure did you glue it down to the fibreglass sole as well as use the edge strip? If you did glue it to the sole what adhesive did you use and how has it held up? Thank you for your pics and ideas.

 

[Loyalist]

Hello I am looking at the photos of your floor and I am very impressed! I know it has been two years but could you tell me if you laid plywood down first and what adhesive did you use? Thank you for your time Bob V.

 

[kito]

I posted this before but just to give you another option is using vinyl plank flooring cut to 2" strips and use silicon for the "Holly" part. Very pleased with mine plus was a snap to install. The vinyl conforms to the curves in the floor.

 

[Loyalist]

Wow that looks great! Have you posted the process and materials somewhere. What type of vinyl plank flooring did you use, how thick is it, where did you buy it, what is it glued down with, is it attached directly to the fibreglass? I apologize for all the questions but you might be the cabin sole replacement guru.
Thank you for the photos.