It has been a while since I checked out this thread, but I wanted to say again - thanks to all who posted. You have both inspired and informed
Since obtaining my boat (from a close friend) 2 years back - boy, time flies - I have slowly chipped away at the jobs on her, trying to hit the safety items first and cosmetic items second. Wasn't always successful, but I feel like I can finally share a little of my work.
Year one haul-out I tried to get the majority of the old bottom paint off so that there was a smooth surface to work from. It was VERY orange peel looking with all the layers. "Most" of the old paint was removed, and I now work on the remaining bits each time she comes out. By 2016 I'll have it all smooth. It is amazing how much the old paint weighs when I clean up the ground after scraping.
I repaired the classic Hull-Keel joint separation with West System G/Flex epoxy.
I also replaced the prop shaft, the engine coupler and put in a PSS. Like many of you I just couldn't STAND a wet bilge. (Plywood core issue aside.)
Next was all of the accessible wiring. The boat got a complete redo on everything possible. I will attach a copy of my wiring diagram. Everything was made as large as possible and I put on solar, added Golf Cart batts, put in a monitor, did the 1-2-All switch update and converted to LEDs.
That was enough of a bleed to the wallet for one year. Couple of grand easily.
Year two (right now) my list was even longer.
1. Pot (epoxy) all of the deck fittings and replace hardware using butyl. MANY holes were leaking.
2. Replace lifelines with uncoated 3/16" wire and replace all hardware
3. Re-weld all the stanchion bases as some had hairline stress fractures
3b. Make aluminum backing plates for stanchions
4. Paint bootstripe/covestripe with Polyurethane
5. Test drill the bilge plywood. Then reseal and apply gelcoat
6. Install stainless keel bolt bars to extend life of plywood core
7. Replace Bowmar saloon hatch glass
8. Inspect and service all steering chain and cables
9. Check all wiring for corrosion, heat issues, or abrasion.
10. Remove and glass over all old transducers (2)
11. Move the location of the forward sink foot pump to behind bulkhead.
12. Install true seacocks
13. Head sink and Galley sink – add soap dispensers
14. Rebuild the winches
15. Repair the UV strip on genoa
16. Install reflective hull insulation in all lockers
17. Install new Campbell Sailer Prop
18. Remove and try repair of hour meter on digital Tachometer (in the end - repair not recommended)
19. Check inside the mast for water – It had some. Drilled a small hole at base for drainage.
20. Remove, inspect and clean and the engine exhaust elbow (3YM20)
21. Replace all engine fluids
22. Add a gate valve in the primary water tank main feed to tap - stop water flowing out sink when heeled over.
23. Pettit Captain's Satin Varnish on the galley wood. Exterior varnish refresh on all outside wood
24. Forward water tank – clean out and add access port.
25. Replace stuffing in rudder shaft
26. Replace diesel filler cap O-ring, replace water tank O-rings.
The attached photos are all of the jobs, rather than of the boat. I really need to put all the cushions back and get some good interior shots.
BTW - I mentioned adding a Campbell Sailer prop. This was an upgrade from a Michigan prop previously and when I tested it out this week the boat went from max 4.5kts under the Michigan to over 6kts with the Campbell.
Best
Invention
EVER