Paint Job Failure

Dec 11, 2015
291
Hunter 25 Plymouth
I need some advice please. I started painting my boat after detailed prep work and noticed that while tipping the brush strokes were significant so I continued on just rolling not tipping and the paint looked great. I then painted the starboard side by simply rolling and it came out great. My problem now is correcting the section of the port side I tipped ( I did use penetrol). Can I sand this paint after a week of drying? Will it do the smutch thing and foul my sandpaper (used Rustoleum Marine Top Side paint). Wisdom appreciated!
 
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
a week later, no problem, thats ideal for topside. how many coats do you have down now and what is the angle of the surface compared to the horizon? if horizontal not much sanding is needed if recoating.

i made that same mistake. i also made the mistake of using a blow dryer to pop air bubbles. endef up with garage floor dust all over my paint job.

if you are going to roll on more coats put another 2 on, then apply a thin coat with a windshield wiper blade, that fills orange peal. you might not need to sand by then.
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,759
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
A week should be plenty for the paint to harden up for sanding.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,369
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
If you follow @BobbyFunn 's advice and put on several layers, you will have enough thickness to do a final buff job once it hardens. That will give you the glossy finish you are looking for.
 
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
with a buffer ; )

Let it dry for about 2 weeks first. start with a light wet sanding at 300-500 to knock down defects and get rid of orange peel, then work up to 1500.

from there its "standard" polishing instructions if there is such a thing.

it rustoleum topside, so if you think some orange peel is good enough you wont neef to polish. itll look glossy just by itself.

i would only polish a centerboard or rudder.
 
Last edited:
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
Huh, a wiper blade, interesting, so it actually works?
same thing as smothing over wall texture with drywall blade. wiper blade will conform to hull.

it will have a misc line here and there. sanding block will take that right out.
 
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
No kidding, I meant, how does one buff out actual paint (what type of polish or conditioner)?
search for. rustoleum $50 roll-on paint job

https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40341-My-quot-rustoleum-50-roll-on-paint-job-quot

i followed similar process. there are hundreds of threads on this site by searching for "polish topside".

After rolling with rustoleum topside, i can say as in Wargames, "the only way to win the game, is not to play." The dry time is too long. you mess up your polishing job and your touchup needs to sit another couple weeks.

if you use RT, roll it well, then walk away. no polishing. touchup with roller means the touchup also matches. no polish. maybe hit it with auto rubbing compound after a couple years of grime.

if you want polish use automotive paint, if its subject to abrasion and impact use gelcoat. if you want a good shine get a sprayer. by the time you sand down orange peel from a roller and brush strokes youll have litterally mopped up half to 2/3 of your paint thickness into a mop bucket from wet sanding.

i spent like two weeks hand polishing my stupid 107 hull on the trailer. Next time it goes upside down to the autobody shop all prepped and ready to go for a two-part instant-dry spray.

its been three years and the paint is holding up fantastic if anyone is wondering. its not great on getting nicked as in dock rash and trailer loading. i used RT on my centerboard and that was a poor decision as i drag on bottom frequently. i stripped it off and used gelcoat. that is still looking great after a couple years.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,369
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
No kidding, I meant, how does one buff out actual paint (what type of polish or conditioner)?
The hard-corp people here have elaborate procedures and they do net results but you can still get a 90% as good of a job for 10% of the price and effort. What I've done is...first sand with some 300 grit. Then, go to Walmart and buy a small handheld orbital buffer, a set of pads and some polishing compound.
You can get one of these for less than $20
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inc...s_O8lDfvVIfh9rQW2kRrJGsC-nhe9cPQaAgYgEALw_wcB
 
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Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
Huh, a wiper blade, interesting, so it actually works?
Heres a garage test. I rolled a surface with Rustoleum topside and let it sit overnight. The next day I roughed up the surface with 220 then drizzled more RT. Finally, spread the RT with a bathroom squeegee.

Its the same technique as some surfboard layup and hot coating. They use cheap chip brushes so they need to apply layers for sanding those out.

You would still need to sand afterwards, just nowhere near as much and as deep.
 

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Jun 9, 2008
1,771
- -- -Bayfield
You should call Rustoleum to get their take on it. They should be familiar with their paints and how to handle it. I have never used that product, but have used other products from Interlux, Pettit and Awlgrip. After preparation and cleaning, it is usually best to roll on several thin coats than one thick coat for starters. Secondly, while rolling on the paint (and following up with friends to tip right after), you want to do the entire hull. Don't do one part, go take a coffee break and then come back to finish it. You want to have that wet edge from start to finish for best results. Then let the paint flow out on it's own. If you are getting sagging, then you are using too much paint. If you have a lot of orange peel or stipple, then you could be using a roller not designed for the job. There are different roller covers that eliminate orange peeling. Different paints have different hardness after they dry. I don't know about Rustoleum. Alwgrip is very hard and not easily repaired. Awlcraft is softer and more repairable. They just introduced another which is also repairable. There are compounds used for freshly applied paint and other compounds used for older paint applications. 3M makes a number of abrasives for sanding out sags and orange peel from bad paint jobs and the grit gets very small. Again, I'd contact Rustoleum and ask them about how to use their products. The worse scenario is to sand smooth what you've done and start over. Good luck. It can be frustrating.