Packing Extractor tool...do they work?
- Thread starter Solstice
- Start date
On my old boat I had a traditional stuffing boat. Every 4 years I would pull the shaft out and bring the stuffing box to the prop shop. They would make it good as new, repack and also replace the hose........ would cost about $50 and well worth it in my opinion.
Greg
Greg
Lol...thanks Stu. I briefly went at it with a screw, but decided to step back after a couple of hours. Will try again though...Solstice, I forgot...a long thin sheetmetal screw. If it won't pick out, screw the screw in and use pliers to pull the screw back out, with packing twined into the point. Doh, it's always my first step and I forgot it. Thanx for helping me remember.
Now, where were those...???
I will say this is my own fault. Kinda like not going to the dentist when you have a toothache. I knew I should’ve done this 2 seasons ago as I had tightened it to it’s limit then and had a fair number of drips when not moving.
On my previous boats I would proactively do this about every 3 seasons. My last boat had a PYI and although it was fine, I ordered this boat with a traditional box...but this is the downside
On my previous boats I would proactively do this about every 3 seasons. My last boat had a PYI and although it was fine, I ordered this boat with a traditional box...but this is the downside
Anything that you can shove in there to loosen it will do.
I used a screwdriver...and it was well lubricated after having been immersed in my cursing and swearing for multiple hours trying to remove the old packing.
I’d rather eat my own feces than do that job again anytime soon.
I used a screwdriver...and it was well lubricated after having been immersed in my cursing and swearing for multiple hours trying to remove the old packing.
I’d rather eat my own feces than do that job again anytime soon.
So true! 25 years of DYI on 4 boats and this ranks as one of the worst jobs. Last Spring I rebuilt my head and would rather do that job any day. Had a PSS on my last boat (which I installed) and figured I’d go with a traditional box on this one because separating a shaft from the flange is equally painful...now I’m not so sure.
I’m on hour 5 and figure I have about 70% out. I’ve used everything mentioned here as far as tools (17 at last count). Next headache will be cleaning the thing to take the new packing.
I was initially very careful not to ding the threads until I realized I only need the first 5 or 6.
This is what I started with
If only I could be so lucky.
On my Yamaha, I have to perch my body on a rail that is 1.5 inches in height, and an inch wide, and unavoidable. The box is then conveniently located beneath the rail in a well. Within minutes, this knife blade of a rail is scissoring its way into my vitals as I labour away (almost inverted) at a task that is hours from completion, and due to the angles involved, impossible to see without a mirror...that is usually dropped out of reach (along with everything else I am working with) a hundred times before the job is completed.
Anyone with a Yamaha 33 will confirm that it’s a nightmare task.
Sounds like you need to have a beer
while you are working on the packing...helps get the creative juices flowing and may deaden the pain some.Greg
@kampuniform I know this is not a competition. Here is a closeup of my access to the Stuffing box under the engine. Beneath the stuffing box is my bilge, a 4-5 foot deep hole.
At least I do not have a knife blade rail cutting into my vitals.
At least I do not have a knife blade rail cutting into my vitals.
Well if it doesn’t go well today and I’m unable to sufficiently clean it to take the new packing I’m going to have to take the shaft off the flange to get the nut off and clean.
If I have to do that I’m seriously thinking of going back to a PSS. The whole reason I went with a traditional box this time around was to avoid this. If I do that, then it’s a split flange and while I’m at it I’ll replace the log hose...
I think you see where I’m going with as I’m sure you’ve all been here before ....a regular maintenance project that should cost $10 bucks and an hour or two is potentially.....
If I have to do that I’m seriously thinking of going back to a PSS. The whole reason I went with a traditional box this time around was to avoid this. If I do that, then it’s a split flange and while I’m at it I’ll replace the log hose...
I think you see where I’m going with as I’m sure you’ve all been here before
....a regular maintenance project that should cost $10 bucks and an hour or two is potentially.....
A tool rental place may have a thread tap large enough. At least it's not metric, they're impossible to find even up here.Now just gotta figure out how to clean up those threads in the nut
Thread restoring files also work well for buggered threads. Some times better tan taps. Also com in metric.
Thanks Leslie. I actually think the integrity of the threads are okay. However I need to get the first 5 or 6 turns cleaned up from the flax remnant and turning smoothly so I can be sure any pressure when tightening is from the new packing and not the threading so I don’t over tighten when adjusting.
My plan is a pick to get the bits of Teflon out, then WD40 or denatured alcohol. Although I’m concerned about greasing them, may start with glycerin and if still not smooth Marelube (Teflon grease). I use Lanacote on the lock nut threads for ease of removal but that stuff is a bit to viscous for the packing threads I think...
Only a 1/4” clearance between the nut and shaft. I just went down to the boat and wiped some WD 40 on and used my angled pick. Got 90% off and it spins on fairly easily. Coated it one more time and will let it sit for a couple days before I go at it one final time with the pick. I still have a couple of turns with some resistance and I really want to get rid of that so I know I’m tightening the flax and it’s not the threads that are resisting. Thanks for the tips!
Next step is getting that flax in. Will try Maine Sail’s trick with the PVC....
Should be just fine there, too. I use it on the lock nut and the open threads, never have bothered to put it inside the gland.