There are a few option before hauling...
Now it gets tougher, Dan.However, before you suspect the valve itself, make absolutely sure that there isn't something outside the ball. Barnacles, muscles can give the appearance of a broken valve. You don't want to go through what follows for an intake full of goop.First thing to check is the valve handle -- I suspect that may be the trouble because if the stem turns, the ball usually turns. If the handle is held on by a screw, see if you can remove it. Depending on the valve, maybe the keyway in the handle is worn away so that it just rotates on the stem. If so, spring for a new valve -- just for the handle. Else, if the stem top has worn around the handle keyway and if the stem is metal, you can clamp a small pair of vice-grips on the stem for the rest of the season. It will give you a good temp handle if you're careful. I'm not sure I'd try that with a plastic valve stem, although it could give you an initial open so you can use the motor. Before you open, you could even install a back-up valve on the seacock nipple. Probably an OK fix until fall.Failing this, dive over the side and drive a wood plug into the intake from the outside. With another wooden plug at hand (in case you pop out the first), unthread the seacock from the thru-hull and install a new replacement seacock. When installed, clamped and closed, dive again to remove the plug.If you have a yard tackle it, they may want to haul anyway to avoid liability of a below WL opening. Perhaps you might ask, anyways.Good luck,Ernie April