Openning up the inside of a 26S.

[Russ Ward]

I'm curious on other people's thoughts about a crazy idea I have been thinking about for while.

I like the openness of the the 26x, but the sailing of the 26s. I have considering removing the forward wall of the head area, like many others have done, but I would also like to remove the view blockage of the rear wall. I have thought about the idea of using some aluminum (thinking around 1/4 inch thick plate) to produce a wall that would have an opening from the galley countertop to the bottom of the ceiling and have a side on port side that is 1-2 inches wide. Basically providing a aluminum frame to take the load of the cut out window.

I would think that the aluminum would have enough strength to provide vertical strength, but might need a diagonal brace to take the twist forces.

I don't plan to do this anytime soon, just really like the idea of the more open look and the head is removed from the head area anytime it is used due to head height anyway.

Thoughts? Others done this?

Thanks
-Russ

 

[Tedd]

I would think that the aluminum would have enough strength to provide vertical strength, but might need a diagonal brace to take the twist forces.

Russ:
Yes, strength won't be the issue here, it'll be stiffness. I think you're basically onto the right idea, but the diagonal member will have to be something other than 1/4" aluminum plate. A piece of plate that long will have very little stiffness in compression. (In engineering terms, it has a high slenderness ratio.) For the diagonal you're going to need either a closed section of some kind (tubing) or a very skookum channel section extrusion. Tubing would probably be better, both structurally and aesthetically.
You could use the wood panel as a pattern to make an aluminum plate replacement, cut out the "windows," and then reinforce the diagonal with a piece of heavy 'C' channel, bolted through the diagonal of the plate on 6" centers. That would be simple to do, but I think you'll find the plate pretty expensive. Also, it won't be very aesthetically pleasing.
If you have access to welding equipment (or someone who can weld for you), it would be much cheaper to make a frame around the outside out of four pieces of aluminum flat bar welded at the corners, and then weld (or bolt) in a diagonal tube. I would use a round tube for the diagonal, at least 2" OD, but that's just off the top of my head. If it were me, I'd do more analysis on that part.
You should be able to do it with no net gain in weight and no loss of stiffness. Probably, if you do it right, it'll be stiffer than what's there.
Now you've go me thinking. Nobody has ever used our head except my wife and I when we're sailing alone, so the privacy of the head isn't much of an advantage to us. Maybe I'll do what you're suggesting!
Tedd
[Addendum: I nearly forgot to mention that the vertical post under the mast is almost certainly also very important. But, if you keep the post that's there and only replace the wood panel with something else, then you should have all the strength and stiffness of the original.]

 

[Russ Ward]

Tedd,

Thanks for the response. I had not thought about using pipe or C channel instead. That should reduce the cost and angle braces could be installed in the corners of the window area, which would add a lot of stiffness.

I started thinking about it after looking at the M and X and saw how open they are, and realizing that when my son and I went on a recent multi-day trip that we would pull the head out to use it and then put it back.

I have also thought that if we ever wanted the privacy it would be as simple as having a cloth curtain that could be put over the window and the previous door location.

I have been shocked I haven't found anyone who has done this.

-Russ

 

[Sumner]

I think the only one that can answer the question of is it worth it is probably you. The X and M's are more open but are also boats you can stand up in. With the S and D you can only stand up with the pop-top up and then you wouldn't be looking forward like one would in the X and M.

I'm big on using any available space for storage for longer trips and the area you are talking about is used up...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/inside-17.html
... on the cabin side with storage for cook-wear and ...

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/inside-14.html
... on the V-berth side with storage for clothing and other things. I totally agree that the stock head area is a total waste of space and very hard to actually use as a head.

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/inside-14.html
Moved ours out into the cabin which has worked great, but for those that need more privacy this might not be an option.

So it is going to probably boil down to how you use your boat and what will work for you. Take pictures and post as we will all be interested in if you go this route regardless of our own choices,

Sumner
====================================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-main/endeavour-index.html
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas

 

[Meriachee]

Pulling the head out is a comment that suggests height and not width or length. Yanking or replacing the bulkhead will not resolve this dilemma, I absolutely hated the use of that facility in the 26c and it was a major driver in a change.

What ever you do with the bulkhead, look beyond the small number of bolts holding it in place and consider that it’s providing a significant amount of stiffness to the hull, both torsionally and vertically.

 

[Sumner]

..What ever you do with the bulkhead, look beyond the small number of bolts holding it in place and consider that it’s providing a significant amount of stiffness to the hull, both torsionally and vertically.

Sumner

 

[Russ Ward]

Thanks guys. I agree completely on stiffness, but I would think that if I used a reasonable sized pipe with angle braces, it should be stiffer than original and I would hope lighter if I take out the two walls and the door.

I am thinking that I would also keep a curtain that would come all the way across where the bulkhead was removed and the walkway. That way if someone want privacy, they could have it. Or I might extend the V-berth like Sumner did.

Still at the thinking stage and didn't mean that I was shocked in a bad way, everyone wants different things and I was just surprised I haven't seen someone else do it before me.

-Russ

 

[gbrian]

Whatever you do with the bulkheads, porta potty or whatever, be sure that you glass in the compression post at the rearward porta potty bulkhead . Screws and bolts won't hold. Lake Erie taught me that to the tune of a $ 9000.00 ceiling repair.

 

[Meriachee]

Um, why would you spend 9 large on repairing a ceiling in a Mac?

 

[gbrian]

I should have said REPAIR ESTIMATE. Found a fellow sailor with fiberglass repair experience. Looks like a diy.