Odor Problem

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I'm thinking of converting our 2008 Raritan PHII to fresh water pressurized since there seems to be a conversion kit to do it.

Sorry, but there is NO conversion kit that converts a PHII or any other manual toilet to fresh water flush. The PHII "conversion" lets you swap out another manual pump and base for the PHII pump and base...allowing you to keep your existing bowl, seat and lid. But it's still a manual sea water toilet.
There is a conversion kit for the Raritan Fresh Head--the only manual toilet designed to use pressurized flush water. The "conversion" allows you to keep your bowl, seat and lid.
And, there are electric macerating toilet "conversion" kits in both sea water and pressurized fresh water models...they replace everything but the bowl seat and lid.

However, there is a very simple, inexpensive and safe solution for the owners of most manual and electric raw water toilets:
(Another excerpt from "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors")
"Sink drain thru-hulls are below the waterline on almost all sailboats. Some sailboat builders even plumb the head sink drain and the toilet intake to share the same thru-hull because it accomplishes two things: it eliminates one below-waterline hole in the boat and it saves the boat builder the cost of one thru-hull and seacock.
"Re-route the toilet intake hose to tee or wye it into the sink drain line as close to the seacock as possible because the connection must be below waterline to work.
"After you’ve closed the toilet intake seacock in preparation to close up the boat (you do close all seacocks before leaving the boat to sit??), fill the sink with clean fresh water and flush the toilet. Because the seacock is closed, the toilet will draw the water out of the sink, rinsing the sea water out of the entire system—intake line, pump, channel in the rim of the bowl and the discharge line. If your toilet is electric, be careful not to let it run dry…doing so can burn out the intake impeller. Or you can keep the sink drain seacock closed except when it's needed to drain the sink and flush with fresh water down the sink all the time...your choice.
"It may also be necessary to keep the sink plugged except when in use, with a rubber sink plug or by installing a conveniently located shut-off valve in the drain hose. Otherwise the toilet may pull air through the sink when you try to flush, preventing the pump from priming."

--Peggie

 

[JRT]

Awesome @Peggie Hall HeadMistress that is a great idea I have to chew on a bit for sure! The conversion kit I saw and read about was this, not a bad price and I was thinking this is what I needed for my PHII

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2622882

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

A lot of people here have done it, so you should find a lot of threads if you search for 'em. I wish I could claim credit for inventing it, but I can't. Tartan was one of the builders who used to tee the toilet intake into the head sink drain...one of our customers who owned a 37' Tartan stopped by my booth at a boat show in 1995 to tell me how he'd eliminated head intake odor by adding a little of our C.P. Cleans Potties to a sinkful of fresh water and flushed it through to the tank every time he closed up the boat or had gotten into some skanky water, and I LOVED that idea. So I consulted with a couple of my gurus who agreed, helped me figure out how to retrofit it, and started promoting it. And everyone who's done also loves it 'cuz it's easy to do, only costs enough to buy a tee or wye fitting, a few hose clamps and solves a major odor problem without having to spend another dime. And also has another advantage: it frees up the head intake thru-hull for a washdown pump (or anything else you want to use it for) or lets you eliminate one hole in the boat if you want to.
And btw, it's not the only good idea in my book!
--Peggie