O'day 34 fixed windows.

[Sefuller]

Recently I discovered one of my side windows had cracked in winter storage. As far as I know it is original, and both sides have screws and adhesive securing them. I suspect the screws should have been removed, but the windows have survived 30+ without incident. As I think about replacing them, I am contemplating splitting the window into two - currently they are 59 inches long, with a solid divider in the middle that is about 4 inches wide. Part of the issue is I will use Dow 795 to adhere them, but there is a slight bow to the cabin house, and the 795 takes 30 days to cure. I'd like to skip the screws for this installation and I think taking the bow out of the equation might help. Any downsides to this approach?

Scott

 

[njlarry]

The bow is no problem. While the 795 cures the vhb tape holds it in place. My forward hatch has a very pronounced curve but the 795 held after just three or four days with only a few bricks on it and no tape. I detailed everything I did in the o'day big boat forum. A search will also show you what others have done.
edit, much easier job and nicer result without any use of screws.

 

[Sefuller]

The bow is no problem. While the 795 cures the vhb tape holds it in place.

Currently there is only 3/4 - 1" of overlap around the perimeter, I was going to make them slightly larger so I have room for 1/2" tape and 3/4" or more of 795. The temps when I will need to do this will be 40s and 50s, so I am anticipating the longer cure. Can't put bricks on the vertical window either

 

[Westcoaster]

Did this job with my Freedom 25 with very long windows. In that case I had two internal dividers and split the windows into three sections. I utilized to bow to my advantage with Dow 795 and only installed one or two screws each end of the new split sections. I had no problems with properly overbored screw holes the much less expansion and contraction of the shorter window sections eliminated any cracking or leakage cancers.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Hopefully, this may be of help. See posts #11 & 13

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...-skylights-on-hunter-35.182172/&highlight=795

I would allow several months over the summer for the 795 to set. My front port light has a good bow to it and it was the same factory install.

 

[GregL564]

Off topic, but is that a loose-footed mainsail you've got there?

 

[Gene Neill]

This was the method I recently used on my Albin Vega. No need to split.

http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/

 

[Sefuller]

Off topic, but is that a loose-footed mainsail you've got there?

Yes - I had the original main cut to loose footed a few years ago, and had a new main built last year also loose footed.

Scott

 

[GregL564]

Nice... !

 

[njlarry]

Currently there is only 3/4 - 1" of overlap around the perimeter, I was going to make them slightly larger so I have room for 1/2" tape and 3/4" or more of 795. The temps when I will need to do this will be 40s and 50s, so I am anticipating the longer cure. Can't put bricks on the vertical window either

There is no need for bricks......the tape holds it.......I was just trying to point out that one, the plexiglass has a lot of ability to bend and 2, the 795 will hold it even without the tape.

 

[Sefuller]

I would much prefer not to have to paint any of my bonding surfaces, but I am having difficulty locating 3M VHB 4991B 1/2" tape - which is black, not gray. The best I can find so far is someone selling 1/4" rolls on Ebay, so I may have to run a double row. If anyone has purchased the 1/2" in black, where did you find it?

Scott

 

[rajhnsn]

Why not use large clamps across the boat to hold both windows at the same time?

 

[eherlihy]

I love Ralph's suggestion of removing the screws and re-sealing the screw holes with Dow 795. I replaced my deadlights with new acrylic from D&R marine. I received what was originally installed, 5/16" tinted acrylic. If I were to do it again I would have used one deadlight as a template, and had a glass shop, or a sign shop cut them from 3/8", or even 7/16"acrylic.

Also, are those STAINLESS STEEL handrails that I see on Scott's boat? I thought that I was the only one with stainless handrails.

 

[Sefuller]

I love Ralph's suggestion of removing the screws and re-sealing the screw holes with Dow 795. I replaced my deadlights with new acrylic from D&R marine. I received what was originally installed, 5/16" tinted acrylic. If I were to do it again I would have used one deadlight as a template, and had a glass shop, or a sign shop cut them from 3/8", or even 7/16"acrylic.

Also, are those STAINLESS STEEL handrails that I see on Scott's boat? I thought that I was the only one with stainless handrails.

The stainless handrails were the project two winters ago My original deadlights were 1/4" and that is what I am putting back. I debated going thicker, but decided that what worked for 30+ years was likely to work for the next 30, and I was concerned about getting them to follow the cabin contour well. As it is ending up, I am going to use two pieces on each side, with about 1" in between and the contour is very slight. I think the VHB tape will hold them in place just fine until the 795 cures. I am currently in the process of using thickened epoxy to glue the liner and cabin top to the plywood core around the window frame - there is an unbelievable amount of waviness to the liner especially when left in freeform.

 

[rajhnsn]

I would love to know more about the stainless handrails. Could you start a separate thread?

 

[eherlihy]

I did in 2011. Here is that thread; http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/71559-my-boat-screwed.html

 

[Sefuller]

I would love to know more about the stainless handrails. Could you start a separate thread?

Here you go: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/34-handrails.184608/

 

[rajhnsn]

Thanks for the information. Looks like a good way to cut down on the maintenance.

 

[Sefuller]

Today I was able to get the windows glued in. As is my M.O. I photo document 1/3 of the process and forgot to take photos of the rest. The photos attached are one window installed with the forward opening ready for the new window. (The mess on the deck is from wet sanding the opening). I split the formerly one piece window into two smaller windows with a small space in between. Despite all assurances to the contrary, I was nervous about the tape holding the window in place against the curve in the cabintop until the sealant cures. Making two individual pieces takes a lot of the curve out of the equation. The second photo is one of the windows with the masking film cut back to the opening size, and the VHB tape applied. I could only find 1/4" VHB tape in black, so that is what I used. I also made the windows slightly larger than the previous windows to allow for more sealant since I didn't want to use any screws, and was again, nervous. After I applied the VHB tape, I ran several beads of Dow 795 around the perimeter, then troweled them relatively smooth with a putty knife. I was once more nervous that the sealant might squeeze between the VHB tape and the gelcoat, preventing the tape from sticking so I wanted to be sure I didn't have too much. I also didn't want to try to inject it with the caulk gun after the window was taped in place since the underside especially would have been difficult. I am happy to report that all of my worrying paid off in spades, and the windows are installed, adhered well with the tape, and the sealant oozed out the perimeter slightly where I was able to clean in off with some alcohol prior to removing the masking tape. I got full coverage under all of the windows, and I am very pleased with how it is turning out. Now I just have to finish making the interior trim.

 

[rajhnsn]

Looking forward to seeing a picture of the finished window.