O'day 34 backstay backing plate

May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
On my not-so-urgent project list was replacing the teak backing for the backstay chainplate. I had a new one fabricated out of 1/4" stainless, slightly larger than the teak one. I bedded it in thickened epoxy and used butyl tape to bed the chainplate and bolts. The old one was in far worse shape than it appeared when it was in place, especially the back side.
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The new one is certainly overkill, but hopefully that can be permanently crossed off the project list!
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Thanks for posting. I never realized that the backing plate was wood, I'll have to check mine. From the pictures it looks like the backing plate was still structurally sound. Where does the ground wire terminate?
 
May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
The wire runs through the bilge, connecting to a keel bolt and the mast, perhaps other places as well, I've never followed it completely.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I found that teak in rough shape too a couple years ago. I used plywood to replace it and also went with butyl. G10 would be a good material for this.
 
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Oct 7, 2008
378
Oday Oday 35 Chesapeake Bay
I'm definitely checking mine. I didn't know it was wood either. Pretty much a critical piece. Heading down this week to prep for the big splash.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
It's a pain to get at. Two people will improve the process. I was able to jury rig a wrench to hold the bolt heads while I removed the nuts but having some one there to help unscrew the bolts and reinstall them is a plus.
 
Aug 17, 2010
311
Oday 35 Barrington
If I recall correctly, the backing plate for the backstay on my 1987 O'day 35 is stainless.

I've been in this location, and it is not pleasant. The easiest way to get in here is to remove the liner from the spare propane locker (starboard), To remove that involves removing the engine compartment access door and the rear panel from the rear quarterberth.

That wire is a bonding wire. It runs from one of the bolts that secure the backstay through the middle of the bilge compartment and eventually bolts onto one of the keel bolts. There are other ones that comes from; the mast, the port upper shroud, the starboard upper shroud, and the forestay. Here is a picture of where they all come together under the base of the mast.

Along the route that each of these wires takes, there are splices which connect to the engine, and each of the bronze through hulls.


I have removed these connections on my boat, as I do not want to risk galvanic corrosion of my through hulls.
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,475
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
I agree it is best to remove the wire from the thru hulls. When I got my boat the holding tank thru hull was the only one not connected and it was also the only that didn't need to be replaced.
 
Oct 7, 2008
378
Oday Oday 35 Chesapeake Bay
Your bilge under the mast is much cleaner than mine. Did you document your process for replacing the intake seacock?
 
Aug 17, 2010
311
Oday 35 Barrington
Note that if you remove the connection from the through hull, you are increasing the probability of damage to the vessel in the event of a lightning strike. On the other hand, one could argue that you are decreasing the likelihood of a lightning strike. An absolute best-practice on lightning protection has, IMHO, not yet been determined.

The process for replacing the seacock is well documented at Maine Sail's site, and I used his method with 3/8" G-10 backing plates. Note that the 90º fitting should be INWARD of the seacock, and if you have a "scoop with grate" through hull it should be removed, as these make great nurseries for mussels.

A client of mine has a "scoop with grate" seacock which connects to a 90º fitting, which then connects to the seacock on his O'35. He has asked me to straighten this out for him while his boat is on the hard. Because his yard does not allow me to work on his vessel, I have had to tell him to do it through the yard (and I'm pretty sure that they will screw it up).
 
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Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I removed that strainer and ball valve on mine also much like the picture above. Note the strainer ID is 1/2 inch and IIRC the raw water pump inlet is larger so the strainer limits the cooling water flow, add a few critters growing in there and a few layers of paint in the slits and you have a potential for overheating.
 
May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
...
I've been in this location, and it is not pleasant. The easiest way to get in here is to remove the liner from the spare propane locker (starboard), To remove that involves removing the engine compartment access door and the rear panel from the rear quarterberth.
...
On my boat, removing the quarterberth panel results in the same access as going through the cockpit locker (without removing any panels). Still have to scrunch around a propane locker...
 
Aug 17, 2010
311
Oday 35 Barrington
Back on topic;
I went to the boat today, and I stand corrected. The backing plate on my '87 O'day 35 IS teak;
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
I used plywood to replace it but if I had the material on hand I'd go with g10. Any metal can corrode (unless you use gold or platinum) and wood can rot. G10 you will never worry again.
 
May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
I used plywood to replace it but if I had the material on hand I'd go with g10. Any metal can corrode (unless you use gold or platinum) and wood can rot. G10 you will never worry again.
We do have the luxury of being in fresh water (boat has always been on the Great Lakes) and our corrosion issues are virtually non-existent. We had friends who left the Great Lakes and cruised the east coast and Bahamas, and I know it was a whole different way of thinking - fittings, electrical, water systems...
 
Aug 17, 2010
311
Oday 35 Barrington
What are those hoses and is that a thru deck fitting?
The hoses run to my Rule 2000 Gold electric bilge pump, which discharges out the transom. That is not a through deck fitting, it is an anti-siphon loop.
 
Aug 17, 2010
311
Oday 35 Barrington
I used plywood to replace it but if I had the material on hand I'd go with g10. Any metal can corrode (unless you use gold or platinum) and wood can rot. G10 you will never worry again.
THANK YOU FOR THAT!!! I have a piece of 3/8" G10, that will do PERFECTLY!
 
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May 6, 2010
472
1984 Oday 39 79 Milwaukee
On mine the holes were 1 3/4" on center, I started 1 3/4" from the top on a 3" wide piece of stainless.