O'Day 222 stepping mast with shrouds?

Jun 22, 2016
54
Pearson 26 Chesapeake Bay
Are the shrouds long enough to step the mast while they are attached?
I've never had the mast up an down yet. I've replaced the rigging and I'll need to step it back up once I get ready to go in the slip.
I noticed the old shrouds and turnbuckle fittings were bent.
Can I fully loose the turnbuckles and leave them attached?
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
You should replace the bent toggles in the turnbuckles. Usually it's the T-toggle on the bottom of the turnbuckle, not the swaged stud on the wire. You should be able to get replacements easily from Annapolis Performance Sailing or other good sailing chandlery. On my 192, I find I can get the uppers and lower to line up in approximate position, such that they go into position as the shrouds tighten. The backstay is a different story, and it is a royal PITA, catching on anything and everything at the back of the boat, or getting caught with a weird kind in the triangle plate. (Just went through this last night stepping the mast in the driveway to do a preliminary tune.) On launch day this year, I plan to tape a length of vinyl tubing at the triangle plate to keep that all lined up. (I JUST thought of this solution!) It will be flexible as needed, but will keep the short strop, the triangle plate, and the main backstay all lined up during the hoist.

I hoist mine with an 8' crutch with roller at the top set into the rudder gudgeons. I stand facing aft, and the mast is already raised that critical first portion. I can lift it and walk backwards along the house, able to views all turnbuckles, and immediately lower if something is kinked. Since I usually step and un-step alone, and I have a spinnaker halyard rigged to a swiveling cam cleat, once I get the mast up and the upper shrouds tight, I can use the spin halyard attached to the stemhead fitting, and pull it tight and cleat off, holding the mast up until I get the forestay pinned.

My trip to the lake is short, about 1/2 hour, so I leave the mast fully rigged, and secure halyards/stays with a roll of that narrow stretch wrap (basically Saran Wrap for packing.) I will re-route and secure for the winter when the boat gets home. I try to prep everything at home for minimal fuss at the launch.
 
Jun 22, 2016
54
Pearson 26 Chesapeake Bay
I have replaced all the of the standing rig, wire, turnbuckles the whole works while I have the mast down.
I was thinking they were bent because they needed to be unhooked to get the mast up, then reattach. If I can simols loosen them and leave them on, it would make this easier. I plan on stepping it alone as well, by hand, with some support with the mainsheet, which cleats itself and I'm not able to lower it alone.
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,926
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
You want the shrouds attached while stepping/unstepping the mast. That will give you some (but not total) control of the side-to-side position of the mast and especially if you are alone it then gives definite side to side control once mast is vertical. You may need to have the turnbuckles loosened slightly to provide some play, but you really need to have them attached while stepping/unstepping.
Here is the Mast stepping procedure as listed in the 222 Owners Manual: (There may be slight differences based on whether you have the Z-Spar Mast or the Dwyer?)
Stepping the Mast:

CAUTION: BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.

We recommend that you have assistance in stepping the mast. The mast should have the slot facing aft when stepped, or down when horizontal. Open the turnbuckles at ends of stays to half-open position. Then attach the Backstay to the stern chainplate, with clevis pin and cotter ring (See Fig. 4) and proceed to attach Sidestays, both uppers and lowers, to the side chainplates. The lower Sidestays that go to the mast tangs located just below the spreader bases are attached to the forward part of the chainplates, while the upper stays that go over the spreaders attach to the aft part of the chainplates. (See Fig. 2) Do not attach the Forestay to the bow fitting yet. A tabernacle is provided on the cabin top of the O’DAY 222 for ease in mast stepping. With the mast in a horizontal position and the main hatch closed, insert the aft mast base tabernacle pin and cotter ring into tabernacle (See Fig. 3). Next push up and forward on the mast until the mast is in a vertical position; it helps if one person pushes the mast up while a second assists by standing on the foredeck and pulling in the forestay. Now with one person holding the mast vertical, the other can attach the forestay to the stem fitting near the bow (use forward hole) with a clevis pin and cotter ring. Next, insert forward pin in the mast tabernacle and secure it with the cotter ring. After all stays are securely attached and the tabernacle pins are in, take the slack out of the rigging and tighten. Try to ensure even pressure upon the mast step/tabernacle pins in a fore & aft direction. With the mast so positioned, the Forestay, Backstay, and two upper Sidestays should he tightened no more than hand tight. The two lower Sidestays should be just taut, not hand tight.


CAUTION: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT TIGHTEN THE STAYS TOO MUCH, AS THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE HULL. BE SURE ALL LOCK NUTS ARE SECURELY TIGHTENED BY PLIERS OR A WRENCH AND THEN TAPED TO PREVENT LOOSENING.


After the stays have been adjusted, insert the cotter pins in the turnbuckle studs. (See fig. 2) Bend the cotter pins over and securely tape the cotter pins to prevent them from catching on anything.


Normally, on a trailered boat, only the forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The forestay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, and then retighten after stepping the mast.


I'm not totally familiar with the 222 chainplate setup, but on other similar boats (CAL 21 was one) a good tip was before stepping the mast, tape the 2 turnbuckle toggles together so they remain vertical while raising the mast, one thing that often caused the turnbuckles to get bent was when one or both toggles flopped over to one side preventing them from properly pivoting. Hard to really put into words.........wish I had a good picture showing what I'm describing.

The problems that Brian S talks about with the backstay are common to many sailboats, the backstay on our old CAL 21 would get hooked on the mainsheet cleat and prevent the mast from being able to fully go up.... and it was difficult if not impossible to fix that without a 3rd person (typical routine was one person pulling on forestay and the other walking mast up from aft.....). We rarely unstopped/stepped mast ourselves, but I remember always needing to watch that backstay!
One other good tip, if possible, try to point the boat with the bow facing downwind while stepping mast, that was any wind force will tend to help (OK, very little, but...!) rather than hurt and more importantly will not tend to blow the mast over to one side or the other.
 
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Jun 22, 2016
54
Pearson 26 Chesapeake Bay
That's how I have stepped the mast on other boats.
Because the hardware was bent, I was wondering if it were too short to leave attached while stepping. Like you say, it would be nice to be able to leave it on.
IllI loosen it all up and give it a try.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
I'm hoping to finally launch this Friday. Here's what I've decided try for taming the backstay triangle plate assembly. I bought some vinyl tubing, and cut a split along the length. I've fitted this over the wire, and it grips the triangle plate as best this size of tubing can. I might have tried a bigger diameter tubing, but we'll see if this holds things in line well enough during hoist. I'm optimistic.
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