O'Day 222 Compression Post Cracked

[EyeSail]

I noticed a crack in the compression post today. My guess is that it is not new, but increasing. I had noticed the lid to the stove area not fitting as well the last season (or two?) and the sink has some old caulk that is definitely above the current level of the sink and has been for quite awhile. The side panel under the left side of the sink has pulled loose and the screws are probably 1/4" off where the holes were.
Where the mast sits, there are some hairline cracks around the base, but there does not seem to be any obvious compression to this or at the base of the post on the floor. The angled tension bar that runs from the mast to the compression post seems to be pushing the compression post at an angle. Did the post fail at the point of the screw and the tension bar is causing this over time , or is there a deeper reason?
How serious is this, can it wait until fall for a fix? Is there a temporary fix in the meantime? Is there a way to re-straighten the compression post and reinforce it? Would letting some of the tension off the rigging help - maybe it is too tight?

 

[mm2347]

It will get worse! Replace it as soon as possible. I would start by loosening the rigging then drop the mast to take off the pressure off the step. If you don't have a good mast raise-lower system a few friends could prob do the trick. When replacement is done adjust the rigging by the book. I might have a 222 post if you choose to not make one.

 

[EyeSail]

Is replacing the post a DIY project, or do I need to find someone to do the work for me? Would I need to put the boat back on the trailer? If you have a post, I would be interested. Thanks for your help.

 

[mm2347]

Overall the sailing community can be very helpful. Start asking other sailors to find someone that could or knows someone that would take a look at your boat. If you are unsure of your abilities and or have limited tools, resources, time, or interest, hire a pro. Again, ask others in your area. Some of the problems in this repair will start at taking the old post out w/ minimum damage to the area with careful measurement of old and new materials. Lots of before and after pictures are a great help. The cabin top will have to be pushed up slowly to orig. height to get the new post in, making sure the pressure is spread out at top and bottom. Prob there will be some cracking of the gell coat but little or no structural (if done before it gets worse). Add a larger backing plate where the 4 mast bolts and stainless steel mast post are. (an old alum. road sign from county shop work well-few washers alone do not) The repair can be done on the water but it might be easier to have the boat close to where workers, tools, and supplies are. Your option. If you can start w/ a plan, organize and assemble tools and supplies this could be a DIY project IF the "Y" has about the middle of the road ability, perseverance, and is resourceful.

 

[mm2347]

Hit the wrong key before wishing you best of luck and if you find yourself in the Green Bay,WI join me for a sail on Lake Mich.

 

[EyeSail]

Thanks for the advice. I am a bit overwhelmed at the moment... My "Y" would not be comfortable with this projects as it sounds. I would guess there is not anyone in the Dubuque, IA area that would be familiar enough with a sailboat to do this kind of work. I will check with locals that own boats in the Kenosha/Racine area if they have any recommendations. Looks like this won't be a good sailing season!

 

[mm2347]

Before giving up go to the boat w/ a notebook. Spend some time looking all areas over. Then in your notebook draw a line from top to bottom about in the middle of the page. Lable left side procedure right side tools & supplys. Then start w/ 1)first thing you think you would do (ie remove all cushions and stuff from boat.) and supplys needed -boxes and where I can put them. 2) drop mast -- need 3 strong friends and lunch @ where ever. Then keep going thru each step untill finished. Take lots of pictures then get away for a short time. Go back and do a new outline without referring to the first one.

 

[EyeSail]

I could handle taking things apart to get the job started, I would just have no idea how to jack up the cabin top properly, much less have the tools to do so. I want it done correctly by someone with knowledge... I also work full-time and just do not have the time to do this in a time-efficient manner that would get me back on the water as soon as possible. I already lost the first month of the season to dock reconstruction...

 

[mm2347]

Sorry again I clicked out-- after 2nd outline compare and do a 3rd and seek help if needed. It is very possible you know a good DIY that you could exchange favors or money to help in full or parts of the job. The project will prob start looking more possible as the outline evolves and if so start looking for supplies and tools. If you start have everything in place and only one step at a time. One of the hardest areas will be in cosmetics as many of the plywood veneer parts don't want to come apart easily. Just remember PRODUCTION not perfection--as long as it is not structural. It will prob be a bit of a struggle setting a jack up to lift w/ minimal pressure points to raise the dropped cabin roof, but not rocket science. Lift only high enough to slide in the post. Above all your outline is your big picture but each step is all you consider until that step is completed. If after the 2nd outline you decide your time is better spent you at least have a better idea what you are looking for when hiring someone to do the work. The project looks from your pictures as a middle of the road difficulty. Parts needed won't be expensive and you can do at least some of the detail work (on your outline) to minimize labor costs. Best of all most Odays are well built overall. Once compression post is replaced and rigging properly adjusted your good to go. Know that all boats will need repair or upgrades. It is part of the sport.

 

[EyeSail]

Thanks for all the advice - I am headed to the dock to start the process. I will do what I can while lining up someone who can complete the job (hopefully locally). Considering I haven't had any major issues in the 20 years I've owned it, I've been lucky! I had been contemplating putting it back on the trailer anyway - I have not been able to get the centerboard to drop - not sure if zebra mussels or something else is the culprit - hopefully I can get that taken care of at the same time!

 

[mm2347]

Just got back from my shop. Sorry the comp. post I have has a chip out of the top. It will be simple to make a new one as there are no

 

[mm2347]

and I think you have the right idea---get err done so you can use it. You can email me (mmehne47@hotmail.com) if you think I can help w/ anything and of course there's Rudy for many parts as well as advice. usually best to call him rather than email.

 

[EyeSail]

Thanks again. The boat has been dismantled and is back in my garage. I'll make some calls tomorrow. The post really looks pretty good at both ends. Will both areas (top of the post and under the mast) need to be jacked up separately? Who designed this???? Especially if the tension bar was an afterthought!!

 

[RickKane]

I feel certain your shrouds had been too tight; maybe a chicken & egg situation (as they would loosen as the deck sagged, & you would adjust them, sagging the deck, etc, etc.). In your case, I would feel OK with finishing the season with a sistered comp post; as long as the sag is addressed. Either wood or possibly a piece of SS flat or angle from the likes of Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Since it's temp and freshwater, not critical it be SS. Of course a new one is definitely in order!
I have some experience in this area, replacing rotted ply core under the mast. Have sent the info to my brother whom you know. Meant to post the work here but don't think I ever got to it. Phone pics have since gone to the bottom of the lake, so I'll just post links to the main elements from Trailersailor.com. -Rick
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1405862
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1407873
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1409962

 

[EyeSail]

Wow - that's a major job you undertook - looks like excellent work! Thanks for the links - it gives me some things to think about or check for. I have actually not adjusted the side stays in several years, but added a roller furler last spring and had some issues with the new sails - the original headsail could not be fully hoisted without loosening the forestay, which then caused the boom to be much lower than it should be. I had it recut, and maybe have the forestay too tight now. Either way, the crack in the post is almost completely through on close inspection, and since I had to pull the boat and get it on a lift to release the centerboard, I will probably get the job done properly. A former owner of the boat who is very knowledgeable has offered to help and is stopping by today to see if it is hopefully as simple as putting in a new post. If it is more involved, I will probably have someone else do the work that is qualified.
Is there some way to know how tight the shrouds should be when all this is complete?
Thanks for the input and help!

 

[mm2347]

Eyesail: I think you're going in the rite direction by replaceing it. A mast can be one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment on a boat to fail. I also think it is usually a bad idea to modify for form and lose function. Oday screwed up by not putting the compression post directly under the mast. (sales dept. wanted berth space??) Many boats had problems as the deck sagged so Oday came up with a fix. The S Steel post modification. To put a bend in the post takes away stiffness in a place that you need all the stiffness you can get. If you want stiff, the straighter the better. ---- You will only need to lift the cabin roof enough to get the compression post in. The distance will be slightly greater than the difference in length from your "bent" post and the length of the post straightened out. ---Stays that are too slack can allow a mast to pump and whip putting lots of stress on the deck. Check the core under the mast step. I think there are 6 bolts in the deck you have to remove (4 at mast step and 2 securing mast to cabin top) Check the core between the layers of glass in these holes. This is a great time to seal them if it has not been done. (see Maine sail) ----- I would prob. put the new wood compression post in first. Then secure steel post at the top then aline the bottom to wood post then drill holes in the wood post and bolt in. Can avoid aliment problems.

 

[EyeSail]

I've got the sink/cabinet removed and the previous owner is going to help with the job. He has a jack and can fabricate the new post - will go with 2x2 oak instead of the 2x1-1/4 teak or mahogany. The floor and roof appear solid, but I will check the core while the bolts are out. I do have butyl tape for sealing. I will reattach the bulkhead with L brackets (as opposed to through holes at the edge of the post which was likely the cause for failure). All the sidestays are fairly taut when not under sail and the inner one is slightly slack when under sail. I will have to figure out the best tension for the forestay.
Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Sunbird22358]

The weird thing about that Stainless-Steel strut (that is In compression incidently, not a "tension" bar) is that the 1984 Sales Brochure shows it, but for some reason far too many 222s did not come from the Factory with the strut. I have heard that it does get in the way of the V-berth, but my Engineering training tells me that due to the mast step being well forward of the wooden compression post, that strut is definitely needed!

 

[EyeSail]

Interesting! Sounds like someone dropped the ball for the first couple of years. I'm not an engineer, but without any support directly under the mast, it is bound to fail at some time...

 

[RickKane]

Definitely needs the added post. Mine's an '84 and didn't come with one. But I'm going to contend (mildly, because I don't totally buy my own argument!) with mm2347 re: the bend I put in mine. Certainly, straight is scientifically stiffer; but that 1"x .065" tubing is not really doing much of any flexing. My wonder is if it manages to translate loads to the compression post more vertically, reducing the potential to crack the post?