New water heater - Raritan or Seaward?

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Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
I had a Seaward 6 gal heater on a Catalina about 4 years ago. It was electric only, as the motor was OB. The heater was original from '92, and worked great. Water was clean, heated up fast, didn't over-heat the water, no problems at all.

Now I have a larger boat with an original Raritan heater from '84. It is understandably shot: The water has rust bits in it, the exterior is rusted, it stinks regarless of treatment (whereas the water tanks and plumbing are clean and the cold water is fabulous), the thermostat doesn't work - the heater just stays on until the pressure relief blows hot water into the bilge. Also, Am concerned that the heat exchanger in the heater might now be poised to rust through, sending coolant into the domestic water, and relieving the cooling system of it's designed ability.

So, need to replace it. Here's the dilema: Why would I pay $700 for a new Raritan, when the Seaward can be had for $270? I'm reasonably sure the Seaward will last, based on experience, possibly even longer than the Raritan.

Thank you
 
Feb 12, 2013
97
C&C 35 MKIII k/c Rock Creek, Chesapeake
I had a Seaward 6 gal heater on a Catalina about 4 years ago. It was electric only, as the motor was OB. The heater was original from '92, and worked great. Water was clean, heated up fast, didn't over-heat the water, no problems at all.

Now I have a larger boat with an original Raritan heater from '84. It is understandably shot: The water has rust bits in it, the exterior is rusted, it stinks regarless of treatment (whereas the water tanks and plumbing are clean and the cold water is fabulous), the thermostat doesn't work - the heater just stays on until the pressure relief blows hot water into the bilge. Also, Am concerned that the heat exchanger in the heater might now be poised to rust through, sending coolant into the domestic water, and relieving the cooling system of it's designed ability.

So, need to replace it. Here's the dilema: Why would I pay $700 for a new Raritan, when the Seaward can be had for $270? I'm reasonably sure the Seaward will last, based on experience, possibly even longer than the Raritan.

Thank you
Raritan is the Rolls Royce- 5 year limited warrenty. Glass lined vs aluminum. More like you home one in terms of reatining heat. One may last twice as long but costs almost three times as much. May depend on how easily replacement is also.I got a Kuuma ( same materials as the Seaward ) 5 years ago at the boat show at their prices was $170. Still doing well. I fugure when it gives up the ghost after 7 years ( just like home ones I think they are programed to have the bottom drop out at the 10 year mark) I get a new one. Easy to replace in 1/2 hour in my boat.


So its do I pay more now for it to last longer or do I have new again after 10 years.


Dave
 
May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
I have the Seaward H.W. Heater and it was original in our 1990 H-33.5. It still is working fine after 23 seasons. If it seemed to be going bad, I would replace with another Seaward.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Raritan is the Rolls Royce- 5 year limited warrenty. Glass lined vs aluminum. More like you home one in terms of reatining heat. One may last twice as long but costs almost three times as much. May depend on how easily replacement is also.I got a Kuuma ( same materials as the Seaward ) 5 years ago at the boat show at their prices was $170. Still doing well. I fugure when it gives up the ghost after 7 years ( just like home ones I think they are programed to have the bottom drop out at the 10 year mark) I get a new one. Easy to replace in 1/2 hour in my boat.


So its do I pay more now for it to last longer or do I have new again after 10 years.


Dave
Sorry but glass lined STEEL tanks are NOT Rolls Royce tanks. Glass lined tanks are cheap and dirty construction yet they charge a PREMIUM for them because people don't know any better. The often rust from the outside in. I have physically put my finger through Raritan tanks so badly rusted through they literally crumbled... Raritan makes a hell of a manual head and other GREAT products but you could not pay me to have a glass lined STEEL tank on a boat....

Go with Isotemp or Super Stor and you'll get a true QUALITY tank.... I used to be a rep for Heat Transfer products (Super Stor) and they are a very good quality tank utilizing a SS pressure vessel and curponickle coil.... The IsoTemp is 100% stainless steel construction including the jacket, pressure vessel and the coil. They also come standard with a thermostatic mixing valve, something that SHOULD be an ABYC requirement....

Don't let price drive a decision as to what is a true quality marine water heater as the Isotemps and Super Stor are often less money than a Raritan but simply built to a higher standard.
 

reworb

.
Apr 22, 2011
234
Beneteau 311 Ft Myers Beach
I have to agree with Isotemp. I had Isotherm holding plate refrigeration in my prior boat, a great quality product. I would buy a product made by this company in a heartbeat. Plus the Isotemp is only 750 watts vs 1500 watts allowing a small gas generator to drive the water heater.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,893
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Like Maine says, Super Stor is the best... but I have a Seaward in the boat that has been there since it was built.. 1985 .. and it is still fine... 28 years... I expect to have to change it before many more years.. I believe that winterizing them really cuts down on life, and if drained, that really shortens life too.. Mine has never been drained nor winterized. The water quality at my marina is excellent, and I think that affects life as well.
 
Feb 12, 2013
97
C&C 35 MKIII k/c Rock Creek, Chesapeake
Sorry but glass lined STEEL tanks are NOT Rolls Royce tanks. Glass lined tanks are cheap and dirty construction yet they charge a PREMIUM for them because people don't know any better. The often rust from the outside in. I have physically put my finger through Raritan tanks so badly rusted through they literally crumbled... Raritan makes a hell of a manual head and other GREAT products but you could not pay me to have a glass lined STEEL tank on a boat....

Go with Isotemp or Super Stor and you'll get a true QUALITY tank.... I used to be a rep for Heat Transfer products (Super Stor) and they are a very good quality tank utilizing a SS pressure vessel and curponickle coil.... The IsoTemp is 100% stainless steel construction including the jacket, pressure vessel and the coil. They also come standard with a thermostatic mixing valve, something that SHOULD be an ABYC requirement....

Don't let price drive a decision as to what is a true quality marine water heater as the Isotemps and Super Stor are often less money than a Raritan but simply built to a higher standard.
So educate me then since I obviously dont know any better as you so eloquently said about my post? I appear to be somewhat confused or misinformed. I though marine water heaters were not that much different than house ones.

House water heaters are made of solid stanless steel tanks inside? Arent most of them lined with glass, ceramic or some polymer coating prevent the aluminium or stainless steel from contact with the water, to decrease the corosive effects? Especially considering our water is chlorinated. When I had to replace our house water heater a few years ago I thought they were all lined with glass or some polymer. the reason being they are less like like to resist the highly chlorinated water we use verus plain stainless or aluminum. I know about the anode and its purpose, but isnt stainless more subject to corrosion than glass?

From a simple minded source Popular Mechanics

Water-heater tanks are made of steel. Steel that's in constant contact with water---especially hot water---will corrode quickly, so water-heater manufacturers usually line their tanks with glass.
Lining

The lining consists of a thin layer of vitreous glass, bonded to the inside of the tank. As long as the lining is intact, the water can't begin to attack the steel.
Vulnerabilities

The lining may not completely cover all interior surfaces, however. The threads of bolts, for example, might have uncoated areas. Over time, chemicals, minerals and sediments in the water can cause the lining itself to break down.
Time Frame

Depending on the quality of the water and the quality of the tank, it could take decades for the lining to fail, or it could take only a few years.
Significance

The most common reason for water-heater failure is lining breakdown.
Anode

To slow corrosion, glass-lined tanks have a magnesium or aluminum rod inside, known as a sacrificial anode. These metals are more reactive than steel; the rod's presence in the water creates an electrolytic reaction that causes it to corrode instead of the steel.
Source:

Popular Mechanics: Water Heater


Read more: Why are water heaters glass lined? | Answerbag http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/1967126#ixzz2M7xayRYq

Also how do you sanitize a hot water heater with bare SS as opposed to glass lined as bleach and any solution with sulfites will Attack the stainless steel/ aluminium?

Is what you are saying here is that what makes the Raritan inferior is the outer shell construction of the water heater, which is not made as well as say the Seward, or Isotherm. Is that correct?

Its not the tank itself as the tank being glass lined appears to be an advantage corrosian wise.

How are these water heaters made by Torrid, also glass lined.
http://www.marinewaterheaters.com/

Thanks for helping to reeducate me from my previous misconsceptions so that on my next purchase I have a more informed decision. I may still go with the cheaper model as overall it does seem to be cheaper over the long run, but in my final cruising boat I would like to put a heater in that will last as well as easy to maintain.

Dave
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
So educate me then since I obviously dont know any better as you so eloquently said about my post? I appear to be somewhat confused or misinformed. I though marine water heaters were not that much different than house ones.
They can be similar or even made by the same companies.

House water heaters are made of solid stanless steel tanks inside?
No, the vast majority of water heaters are made of steel and then glass lined. The water heaters are very often the exact same even though they may say 6, 8 or 12 year warranty. The premium you pay for the 12 year warranty only covers the "insurance" for the warranty. Some may use a slightly thicker pressure vessel but that is really the only difference other than price.

There are some very high quality water heaters that are SS tanks but the vast majority are simple, cheap glass lined tanks.

Of course there are multiple types of water heaters:

Electric - Almost all are cheap glass lined products.
Gas - Most are still glass lined steel tanks
Oil - Again most are all glass lined steel
Indirect - These are almost always a SS tank though some are a glass lined.

*Indirect fired heaters are the most similar to a marine water heater.


Arent most of them lined with glass, ceramic or some polymer coating prevent the aluminium or stainless steel from contact with the water, to decrease the corosive effects?
Don't let them fool you the SS tanks deal with corrosion considerably better than glass lined steel this is why in the residential world they carry better warranties up to lifetime. The Crown Mega Stor on our house is 316SS and lifetime warranty. Compare a lifetime warranty or 15 years etc... on the tank vs. the 6, 8 or 12 of a glass lined steel tank.

Glass lined tanks must have anode rods. Most SS tanks, well made ones, do not. My mother had one of the first Super-Stor indirect fired water heaters in her house, as my dad was one of their first reps. The tank went in back in 1975 or so and is still going to this day. It has outlived two boilers and is in its 38th year of service. It is basically the same exact water heater as the Super-Stor marine tank only without the electric element. Her beach house has gas heat and a gas water heater. She is on her fifth glass lined tank since 1978 or about 7.6 years per water heater. The warranties on most glass lined tanks are worth the paper they are written on.


Especially considering our water is chlorinated. When I had to replace our house water heater a few years ago I thought they were all lined with glass or some polymer. the reason being they are less like like to resist the highly chlorinated water we use verus plain stainless or aluminum. I know about the anode and its purpose, but isnt stainless more subject to corrosion than glass?
Again a quality made heater will not have issues with this. 316L SS is highly resistant to corrosion.


My mothers old SuperStor is on city water. My Mega-Stor is on city water and zero issues. Over the years when I was a rep in the HVAC/hydronics market I sold a number of very high quality tanks and some cheap glass lined ones two. The RMA's I did on glass lined tanks took a good deal of time. I rarely, if ever did them, on the premium stainless tanks.

From a simple minded source Popular Mechanics

Water-heater tanks are made of steel. Steel that's in constant contact with water---especially hot water---will corrode quickly, so water-heater manufacturers usually line their tanks with glass.
Lining
Yes cheap steel tanks need a coating, no secret. In a home you have little worry of the outside of the tank rusting but on a boat at 80-95% RH the outside of the tank can rust a lot more rapidly. This glass however can develop micro cracks and the heater begins to rust anyway. This can be a cause of the smell people often complain about...

The lining consists of a thin layer of vitreous glass, bonded to the inside of the tank. As long as the lining is intact, the water can't begin to attack the steel.
Vulnerabilities
All true but even the tightening of a fitting by an unskilled installer can micro crack the coating and it will go unnoticed. The walls of these tanks are very thin and it does not take much reaming with a wrench to distort the metal enough to crack the brittle lining..

The lining may not completely cover all interior surfaces, however. The threads of bolts, for example, might have uncoated areas. Over time, chemicals, minerals and sediments in the water can cause the lining itself to break down.
Time Frame
Yep this is why they have such short warranties or you pay extra for the tank to insure/cover the warranty period..

Depending on the quality of the water and the quality of the tank, it could take decades for the lining to fail, or it could take only a few years.
Significance
Yep and lots barely make it out of the "pro-rated" warranty period which is usually not even worth the paper it is written on..

The most common reason for water-heater failure is lining breakdown.
Yep and SS tanks don't have brittle & rather fragile linings... It has always amused me that Raritan has sold this tank as a "premium" tank when glass lined tanks in the plumbing industry are known to be simply the cheapest possible option. Nothing "premium" about it. Cheap, easy to produce and good future replacement business.

Price out a sheet of mild steel and a sheet of 316SS than tell me the SuperStor or Isotemp are not TREMENDOUS values when compared to a Raritan.. Raritan is making HUGE margins on that tank compared to HTP or Isotemp..
To slow corrosion, glass-lined tanks have a magnesium or aluminum rod inside, known as a sacrificial anode. These metals are more reactive than steel; the rod's presence in the water creates an electrolytic reaction that causes it to corrode instead of the steel.
If glass lined tanks actually worked as designed, the lining protected the steel, they would not need anodes.;) Think about it.... :doh:The anodes are band-aids there to protect a cheap product and hopefully get it through the warranty period.
Source:



Also how do you sanitize a hot water heater with bare SS as opposed to glass lined as bleach and any solution with sulfites will Attack the stainless steel/ aluminium?
I shock mine every spring and treat it throughout the year. Zero issues. A quality SS tank can survive city water easily and even the occasional shock treatment. Remember this is not cheap SS these are 316L stainless.....

Is what you are saying here is that what makes the Raritan inferior is the outer shell construction of the water heater, which is not made as well as say the Seward, or Isotherm. Is that correct?
No, I am talking all about the inner tank. The outside of the inner tank is bare steel, unless they have begun to powered coat them recently. The inside is coated with what amounts to porcelain. Ever seen a cheap porcelain sink made of thin steel? They made em and they all cracked. Cast iron sinks coated with porcelain are a different story because a cast iron sink does not flex. The "jacket" of these water heaters is only superficial and there to encapsulate the insulation. Most jackets these days are a non-corrosive plastic though the Isotemp is a beautiful SS jacket on the outside too..

Its not the tank itself as the tank being glass lined appears to be an advantage corrosian wise.
Again there is no advantage to a glass lined tank, only more potential for problems.

How are these water heaters made by Torrid, also glass lined.
http://www.marinewaterheaters.com/

Thanks for helping to reeducate me from my previous misconsceptions so that on my next purchase I have a more informed decision. I may still go with the cheaper model as overall it does seem to be cheaper over the long run, but in my final cruising boat I would like to put a heater in that will last as well as easy to maintain.

Dave
One only has to look as far as a company like Heat Transfer Products who produce both glass lined tanks and 316L SS tanks. Look for advice from a company that only produces glass lined products, and you'll get their self serving answers.

For example the indirect fired 316L SS water heater my mother has had in her house, virtually unchanged for 38 years, carries a limited LIFETIME warranty. HTP offers the same heater in a glass lined, less expensive version, and guess what...?? It gets a SEVEN year limited warranty.:doh: The design is the same but the quality & price are different. HTP also "slush coats" their glass lined tanks and does not spray line them. To save costs many water heater manufacturers have gone to spraying the glass lining... Slush coating is arguably the best way to build a glass lined tank but still, it is an inferior product, when compared to a well built and engineered 316L tank. This is the same company producing both glass lined and 316L tanks and the 316L tanks have the better warranties because they are simply better built products which will last longer..

Having spent my early years an an HVAC/Hydronics rep, working for manufacturers of valves, boilers (both cast iron and steel), PEX tubing & radiant systems, fittings, control systems, air conditioning, furnaces, water heaters etc. etc.. you could not pay me to install a glass lined tank on my own boat. I was the guy doing the RMA authorizations on glass lined tanks, compared to the SS tanks I also sold.............. NO COMPARISON.....:D

You can certainly get lucky with any glass lined tank but it is sort of like roulette.

My choices would be:

Isotemp or Superstor or another 316L SS tank. After that a glass lined tank and as an absolute last choice any tank made with an aluminum pressure vessel/inner tank.

So at least a glass lined tank is better than something......;)
 
Feb 2, 2010
373
Island Packet 37 Hull #2 Harpswell Me
I have a Force 10, still looks like new after 5 years, i think Kunna has the model now as their website shows it exactly the same.
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Re: New water heater

My boat's on it's third water heater. The current one is a Force 10 bought before the ownership change. I've been very happy with it for the past few years.
 

zeehag

.
Mar 26, 2009
3,198
1976 formosa 41 yankee clipper santa barbara. ca.(not there)
since 1990 i have been seeking the ultimate water heater.
i have yet to find. i use none. good luck.
i found all the ones i encountered end up leaking within 5 yrs. some within 1 yr...
i use solar showers and other peoples homes..when i have friends in the area...there are even public showers in mexico..go figger.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
Glad I asked.

What did sailors do prior to this forum?

Thank you to everyone, and especially Mainsail who saved me from buying another Raritan. I have the Raritan head and it's a gem, but I had wondered why the water heater had failed and rusted so badly. Fabulous info thanks again, and even the challenges to Mainsail are excellent as they summon discussion and deeper details.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
i have a basic Isotemp by Indel I am putting my in boat it is an 8 gal. one ...it will prolly out last me i hope lol. it uses 750 watt eliment and also engine water to heat the water....

regards

woody
 
Feb 12, 2013
97
C&C 35 MKIII k/c Rock Creek, Chesapeake
Glad I asked.

What did sailors do prior to this forum?

Thank you to everyone, and especially Mainsail who saved me from buying another Raritan. I have the Raritan head and it's a gem, but I had wondered why the water heater had failed and rusted so badly. Fabulous info thanks again, and even the challenges to Mainsail are excellent as they summon discussion and deeper details.
Original water heater was from 1984. So its 29 years old in a marine environement Possibly one of the reasons it has " rusted and failed" so badly. Seeing as you are supposed to replace robust items like standing rigging at the 10 year mark, Id say you got more than your use out of it. I would say 15 years Id be happy with a water heater. Hope you dont expect even an Isotherm or Seward to last 29 years. No doubt there will be problems in anywater heater by then:):):).

It comes down to going cheaper and replacing maybe twice in 15 years at a cost of $600 and having a new one after 7.5 years again or buying a higher priced one for $750 and getting 15 years out of it. Like I said if its easy to replace and this isnt your end of the line boat, or it isnt a cruising boat where you wont have availability in some remote area to replace it, then my decison is to go chepaer and replace again and have new after 7.5 years. Its a water heater....not an engine. Its not a safety issue. either way I wouldnt buy a Raritan on Maine Sails advice
 
Feb 12, 2013
97
C&C 35 MKIII k/c Rock Creek, Chesapeake
Original water heater was from 1984. So its 29 years old in a marine environement Possibly one of the reasons it has " rusted and failed" so badly. Seeing as you are supposed to replace robust items like standing rigging at the 10 year mark, Id say you got more than your use out of it. I would say 15 years Id be happy with a water heater. Hope you dont expect even an Isotherm or Seward to last 29 years. No doubt there will be problems in anywater heater by then:):):).

It comes down to going cheaper and replacing maybe twice in 15 years at a cost of $600 and having a new one after 7.5 years again or buying a higher priced one for $750 and getting 15 years out of it. Like I said if its easy to replace and this isnt your end of the line boat, or it isnt a cruising boat where you wont have availability in some remote area to replace it, then my decison is to go chepaer and replace again and have new after 7.5 years. Its a water heater....not an engine. Its not a safety issue. either way I wouldnt buy a Raritan on Maine Sails advice
After reading what I wrote I didnt want to come off like I was arguing, but I thought your OP was concerning whether to spend the extra money for one of the top of the line heaters or a cheaper one.

I am sure many will disagree here about going cheap, but its all about where you choose to spend your money on as very few are wealthy. I am sure if I looked at yours or other knife sets I would tell you they are cheap, wont last, wont hold an edge, and dont have a warrenty like my Japanese Shun or Hattoris do. They of course have life time warrenties and cost a minimum of $200 a piece, most others probably dont even cost $50 on average. But hey they both cut and you spend your money where you want. To me I want the Shun knife and the Kuuma water heater.:)

Main thing is to be happy, be informed, not feel ripped off by substandard products, and to have fun sailing
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Original water heater was from 1984. So its 29 years old in a marine environement Possibly one of the reasons it has " rusted and failed" so badly. Seeing as you are supposed to replace robust items like standing rigging at the 10 year mark, Id say you got more than your use out of it. I would say 15 years Id be happy with a water heater. Hope you dont expect even an Isotherm or Seward to last 29 years. No doubt there will be problems in anywater heater by then:):):).

It comes down to going cheaper and replacing maybe twice in 15 years at a cost of $600 and having a new one after 7.5 years again or buying a higher priced one for $750 and getting 15 years out of it. Like I said if its easy to replace and this isnt your end of the line boat, or it isnt a cruising boat where you wont have availability in some remote area to replace it, then my decison is to go chepaer and replace again and have new after 7.5 years. Its a water heater....not an engine. Its not a safety issue. either way I wouldnt buy a Raritan on Maine Sails advice
Problem is some of the cheap water heaters don't even make it it of the warranty period.

Our boat originally came with a beautiful Atlantic Marine 316LSS water heater. It lasted from 1979 to 2010 before I preemptively replaced it. The only reason I replaced it was because the pedestal & a tank fitting leaked under the previous owner (he never had a pedestal cover) and did not notice the small fitting leak. Due to the age of the tank basic fiberglass insulation had been used to insulate between the jacket and tank. This was well before most companies every used injected closed cell foam. Well the tank sat in about 3" of water and the insulation wicked this water into the base of the tank.

CS had made a nice "well" for these tanks to sit in but never put a drain hole in it. I guess they never assumed enough water could leak down around the compass to matter. & that tank fitting leaks would not happen.

This SS tank literally sat in water for many, many, many years... In this shot you can see the "waterline" around the bottom of the tank.



In this shot you can see the well and the waterline even better.


Despite this highly ABUSIVE treatment the tank was still NOT leaking when I removed it after 31 years of service. When the fuel tank leaked, and I was "in-there", I decided to yank the tank and re-plumb it. This is when I discovered the pitting corrosion and wet insulation. It had signs of exterior pitting corrosion, due to sitting in wet insulation for many, many, many years but even when pressure tested held pressure just fine, STILL WORKING....

This was the worst of the pitting corrosion.


I have seen that same thing play out with glass lined steel tanks and they last two or three years, if that. Atlantic Marine put themselves out of business likely because the tanks lasted so darn long, even in abusive installations....

I was going to use a SuperStor to replace it, good history with them, but decided an Isotemp would be a better fit and keep the tank up and out of the "well".



Many people get lucky with the Raritan's, I have seen them at 20 years, but when they are as expensive as a high quality 316SS tank I see no need to spend that kind of money on a glass lined tank. I have also seen them toasted in 3-5 years....
 
Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
I installed a Seaward 10 years ago. I think it cost about $225 It has performed like a champ. We are very careful to never leave it on AC for more than 30 minutes ( A $ store timer handles that) and usually we dont even have to run it after coming in under power. 20 min of running and we have hot water. In the am we have warm enough water to wash your face. I winterize by running dry now, used to use pink AF.
 

Tim R.

.
May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
I installed an Isotemp in 2008 in my previous boat and I have a Seawrd in my current boat that was installed in 2006. Neither have leaked but the Isotemp kept the water hot about twice as long as the Seaward.
 
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