New Subfloor Help for '89 Legend 40

Oct 5, 2017
7
Hobie Pro Angler 17T Harkers Island, NC
Has anyone replaced the subfloor in a Legend 40? I have numerous delaminated sections from accumulated water in the bulges while the boat was on the hard, prior to purchasing the boat.

The carpentry looks pretty straightforward. The question is whether or not I have to disassemble every built-in on the boat, including the forward head partitions. A/C, water heater and fridge components can be temporarily lifted, as new floor is slipped into place.

Any advice is greatly appreciated .

David
 

FDL S2

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Jun 29, 2014
469
S2 7.3 Fond du Lac
Look for the thread by B757captain where he rebuilds his hurricane damaged 40. He replaces the subfloors and I believe the aft center bulkhead rests on the subfloor.
 
Oct 5, 2017
7
Hobie Pro Angler 17T Harkers Island, NC
Look for the thread by B757captain where he rebuilds his hurricane damaged 40. He replaces the subfloors and I believe the aft center bulkhead rests on the subfloor.
Thanks, FDL. I searched and nothing related to B757Captain and flooring. I appreciate the help.
 

FDL S2

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Jun 29, 2014
469
S2 7.3 Fond du Lac
I found what I was thinking of on page 8 of his thread-quoted below:

This week: Bilge paint and bulkheads

I've been working on the engine bilge and companionway bulkheads this week. First task was to start cleaning and sanding the bilge to get to ready for paint. Once that was ready I made a rough cut and fitted the bulkheaddirectly under the companionway:



I decided to address a (what I consider) design flaw in the floor/bulkhead "interface". As assembled originally, the companionway bulkhead "feet" rested on pre-installed floorboards. Problem one was that the floorboards were OSB ply. Not a material of choice for a boat for multiple reasons but really a bad idea in this spot due to the inherent water ingress common around the companionway. Problem two was that if for any reason the floorboard needed to be removed (like if it rots due to water ingress!) the bulkhead prevents its removal.

I had a solution for this when I cut the replacement floors. I was going to cut and fit replacement "feet" separate from the floorboards:





The footpad will be sealed with epoxy and screwed to the grid, with the bulkhead resting on and affixed to this pad.

I only rough cut the doorway openings on the center bulkhead so I could measure for the door openings after mounting. With this done, measured and marked, and measuring for the center cutout for the engine, I removed the bulkhead for finishing. Now for bilge paint!

Two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of paint and the bilge is ready:

 
Oct 5, 2017
7
Hobie Pro Angler 17T Harkers Island, NC
Awesome. There seems to be some similarity between his boat and mine. Having those pictures helps. Thanks.
 
Oct 5, 2017
7
Hobie Pro Angler 17T Harkers Island, NC
He gutted everything, ostensibly, if it was hurricane damaged. We are liveaboards. I wonder of this can be done without leaving the boat.
 

FDL S2

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Jun 29, 2014
469
S2 7.3 Fond du Lac
I'm guessing it's possible if you can do one section at a time. I would think you can cut the floor around the bulkhead base and remove it. But I don't really know.
 
May 8, 2013
629
Hunter 40 Dataw Island, SC
Hi David,

I'll chime in if you don't mind with what I experienced with my '86 Legend 40. As you have seen already, I have lots of pics on my thread of what's under the cabinetry. Unfortunately, years ago rotted floorboards are what prompted me to refit the original interior so what you can see of my teardown is not the original Hunter cabinets. So, first things first:

Can you specify where the delam and rotted floorboards are? Or is it more an "everywhere" issue? On the good news side of things, the only bulkhead that you'll have to deal with is the center companionway area like on my thread. A jack can relieve the pressure from the bulkhead to allow you to remove the old and slip the new in place, though I went for a more thought out approach. That covers the good news, I hate to say :(

Working aft to forward, the smaller corner pieces in the aft cabin behind the center bulkhead also continue under the aft bunk. They are all screwed down to the grid (this applies to every floorboard on the boat, unfortunately) so the only way really to access the floorboards is to remove the section of the aft bunk sitting on them (as well as dealing with the bulkhead).

Next is the flooring in the galley area. The engine compartment side sits on the flooring, as does the galley side. No way to slip a new piece underneath. Also something to consider - if the current floor is in really bad shape it will probably come out in chunks (or like my original floor, handfuls of OSB mush). So you will need unhindered access to make patterns.

Following forward around the galley "L", same. Most of this sits on flooring, and it is not easy to remove. You have pretty good access under the sink to check this area, but unfortunately since it is in close proximity to the sink, fridge box and water heater, chances are high that water has been doing its "magic" there for a while. Following forward to the settee, the side panels are a little easier to remove, and yes, they sit on the flooring:banghead:

Opposite side, if yours is configured like mine was, immediately forward of the aft head is the chart table area. Easier to get to the flooring but the forward edge will be covered by the aft corner of the settee. The port side settee will have to come out to access the flooring edges.

Forward in the vee berth, the only conflict will be with the vertical panel/side wall of the head. Not too terribly difficult to remove, but access is hard in the corner of the head due to the cabinetry inside the head.

Points to think of: most of the cabinetry was installed as pre-assembled units. They are not designed to be taken apart from the outside in. If you can detach the units as a whole they will suffer much less damage. Another biggie: My original floorboards were 5/8th OSB. Measure your flooring - Hunter might have changed it to 3/4" but that extra 1/8th will mean nothing will fit going back together if you can't find 5/8th marine ply. Ask me how I know!!

I might have some old pics of the original interior refit showing some of this - let me know and I'll see if I can dig them up.

If it's any consolation, my original repair/refit happened while I was a liveaboard (though not married!). It gave me lots of incentive to finish the project! I originally repaired one section at a time. It's not easy, but doable.

Cheers,

Mark
 
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Oct 5, 2017
7
Hobie Pro Angler 17T Harkers Island, NC
Mark, thank you for the thoughtful and informative walkthru of this process. My trouble spots are:

1. In front of fridge at base of cabinet
2. V-berth - the floor is mostly two hatches and it is all soft and delaminated there
The rest of the boat is okay. To me, new floor means new floor.

Thank you,

David